and i had all the following at some point most went away as i was fixin the icp ans so on p1280 icp
p1212 icp low
p1316 idm
p0603 KAM
p0304 cps
p1000 obd
p1273 cyl 3 high low
1298 idm fault

 

If you have .26 volts, but the psi reading is 2200, you probably have either a severe hydraulic leak, a bad IPR, or a failed HPOP. Have you already replaced the ICP sensor? Were all those other codes before or after the sensor was replaced (if you indeed did replace it)?

 

no i have not, and all the codes were before i havent replaced anything yet all my parts are at home n im still at work but im goin too, and everthing on this engine is new not sayin i can rule it all out because new stuff does go bad but hpop, injectors orings all that besided my sensors everthing in my sig was done last year all at once but i apprechate ur reply

 

Typically, the P1280 means the PCM detected too low a value from the ICP sensor and it's ignoring the sensor. When that happens, the ICP psi reading is inferred and the psi value reported is meaningless. 0.24 volts is what I'd expect to see with the key on and not cranking the engine. That's why I suspect you have no hydraulic pressure. If I was working on the truck, I'd probably start by checking the wiring and VREF voltage to the sensor, then verifying the ICP with a mechanical gauge. Does the voltage climb at all while cranking? It would need to be at least 0.84 volts for the engine to start.

 

icp volts is .22 koeoff and .28 while crankin and now with a snap on solus i have psi at 24. with both the origional and other icp sensor cps reads 180

 

If CPS reads 180 rpms and ICP is 24 psi, ignore the CPS and focus on the oil side. You can unplug the ICP sensor and try to start to rule out the sensor, but it sounds like you're either dumping or not building oil pressure on the high side.

 

replaced the IPR and shes ALIVE!!!!!! and idling at 671 psi and 1.06 volts

 

yea my icp read the 24 pluged in and 2200 unplugged (its default) psi ususally I can get a start but this time I didn't so I replaced the ipr cuz I have like 3 of em and fired up ran like crap them smoothed out

 

Glad the sensor fixed it. Usually when the sensor fails, you'll just get a 0 volt reading . . .

 

Have you checked the wiring to both the IPR and ICP? Chaffed wires or brittle insulation can cause the wires to short and show these types of problems.

 

yea same yea thats what i expected to see and a psi difference

 

no i have not i have another harness thats the actual correct one and il gonna go thru it and swap them out

btw i apprechate all of yall help!!

 

Had my '03 F350 7.3L (126K original owner miles) in for some bodywork, and after having it 6 weeks, it came back looking GREAT - but with the Check Engine light on. Bodyshop scanned and it gave a P1280 code, but said they did not do anything to cause it, so I'm stuck fixing it. Had one VERY rough start - like only running on half the cylinders - but has been starting OK since, though I'm not driving it more than around the neighborhood as I don't want to get stranded! Found this thread and have checked the ICP sensor connector pins A & B per F350-6 diagram. ICP connector bone dry - no oil in it or ICP. Would move on to checking pins back to PCM, but - is 2003 F350 7.3L ECM pinout the same as 2002? Did not want to make a wrong assumption that it is. I'm assuming I need to pull connector from PCM at the firewall? Any way to read/check the ICP itself? I do not have any scan tools - just a DMM & 12V test light.

Truck runs the same with/without ICP connected. Have fairly new Motorcraft batteries, but have been noticing tougher starting in cooler temps. GPR voltages check out with DMM, so thinking I may need to replace glow plugs as well - unless ICP could be responsible for that too, though did not have Check Engine Light until the bodywork. Is 126K miles about time for new glow plugs? Was due for oil change, so have already changed oil & filter (Rotella T4 15W40 & Motorcraft 1995) as have seen some info that could be partly responsible.

Not sure if may be related, but a few months ago it started bucking badly at startup, then a few days later would not start at all. Fuel gage showed 1/4 tank, & I have had the float stick before - but usually showing much lower level & stayed stuck for a while even after filling to full. Eventually poured in 5 gallons of diesel I keep in the garage for emergency use, fired it up, and have been keeping it full. It has not bucked since, so thinking I have float/gage issue of perhaps pickup foot has broken off.

 

Hi MAC, welcome to FTE.

Fuel concerns while at 1/4 tank typically indicates a broken fuel pickup. I would start with the Hutch mod.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19216921

There are other versions that can be found in the tech folder at the top of the forum.

 

Thanks Jason - I figured as much. Right now, still fighting the CEL & P1280 code. Did find the insulation rubbed off a pink (maybe orange?) wire in the harness that includes the ICP sensor - just below the driver side big connector mounted to the valve cover, but moving it away from the cover does not get rid of the CEL. Also looks like there's a long bolt/screw coming through the front of the cowl about dead center with the steering wheel that sticks down into the harness where it is bundled up under there - but looks like its been that way a long time.

Found a new OEM ICP sensor on ebay for $135 and will have it to try on Friday. Anyone know if it would be damaged if I connect it with a problem still in the harness? Do not have access to a "real" diagnostic tool - just a digital multimeter and a test light. If no progress this weekend, will be heading to Ford dealer or a local diesel performance shop - $175 to connect & scan, then $90/hour + parts (UGH!)