Well today I ordered all the parts from RJM Injection Technologies.
I'll be posting an in depth how-to when I get the parts hopefully sometime this week.

Here's what I ordered, with prices.
Original EGR Eliminator $20.00
2-7/8″ EGR Block Off $15.00
<input name="add" value="1" type="hidden"> <input name="cmd" value="_cart" type="hidden"> <input name="business" value="sales@rjminjectiontech.com" type="hidden"> <input name="item_name" value="3/4in EGR Header Plug" type="hidden"> <input name="amount" value="5.00" type="hidden">3/4in EGR Header Plug $5.00

I also purchased 4 of the following.
Actuator Eliminator Resistor $2.00 each
They are 75 ohm 3watt Resistors that can also be used to eliminate the EVR, CANP, TAB & TAD solenoids.

I'll keep everyone updated!

 

good luck let us know about the results hope your driving the truck soon..... I'am so confused about the whole egr thing even with the mass amount of searching i have decided to just let everything be for now and move on to something else...

 

I'll give you exact results when I'm all done bro!

 

any news on this?

 

I just did this on my 89 5.0

Only problem was the "header plug" wasn't right for my truck.
From what I read the exhaust gas was taken from the exhaust manifold in later years. On mine it comes from a connection on the intake manifold (PITA to get to) I ended up bending the EGR pipe over on itself to seal it as it was already broken.

Beyond that: The Plug in module and Block off plate work well.

It's nothing that can't be fabricated yourself... The plugin is just a circuit that sends the computer something like .5 - .8 volts showing that the EGR is closed.

I imagine the block off plate could be made by buying a new EGR gasket and tracing it onto a piece of metal, cutting it out and drilling a couple holes.

I ordered the parts from RJM, desipte being entirely unresponsive to be contacting them - they did send the parts.

 

have you finished this? i'm interested in doing this to my 5.0 along with getting rid of the smog

 

I've already done the EGR/Thermact-ectomy on my '89 5.8 351W with a steel plate block-off on the EGR and have plugged all the various orifices. I'm still getting the 34 engine code, and I've forgotten how to figure out what value resistor to plug in.

I'm not scared of wiring in an in-line resistor; I'm just hazy on which resistor would do the job? The RIM/RTM (whoever) site sells 75 ohm 3 watters for the solenoids for 2 bucks and the dummy plug for $20. I'd rather spend 2 bucks...

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

 

I'm using a '90 5.0L in my '50 F1; have removed the air pump and solenoids . Need more input on what other components I can delete and still have the engine perform well. I don't want all the smog components in the engine bay., canister etc, if I can delete them. Mines an IV computer.

 

FYI.. if your truck has the DPFE EGR system then it cannot be deleted without throwing codes, that's a definite and none of these products make any difference. Not sure when Ford switched to DPFE but it was sometime around '92 I believe.

On the earlier motors EGR can be disabled or deleted without major issues though it may still throw a code but that won't affect engine operation much if any. Disabling it is easy just cut a piece of sheetmetal and insert it between the valve and intake. If you leave the EGR all connected normally there will be no codes and the intake will stay clean inside. If you want to remove the EGR valve then plug in an EGR eliminator in the harness, install a blockoff plate on the intake, plug or remove the vacuum line beween the EGR and EVP, and plug the lower intake or exhaust manifold(5.0 vs 5.8) where the tube attaches.

 

Worked at the high idle issue I'm having with the EGR still in place but vacuum line is plugged off.

I'll do a little esearch then update with more info.

 

I worked at the vacuum lines on the 5.0 SD for my '50 yesterday. I've ran the hose from the intake manifold vacuum at front of engine to a "T" on the firewall and connected to the manifold vacuum and to the brake booster . The MAP is connected to a vacuum port at rear of engine, which I "T'd" and originally ran to the EGR valve. At first the truck idled smoothly but then went back up to high idle; so I capped the EGR port. I've removed the TAB & tAD and air pump. The EGR valve is still in place and I've caped the port where vacuum went. . I guess I'm going to have to take the intake manifold off this winter and trace all the lines.

If any body has suggestions , they would be welcome. The problem seems to lie with the EGR; all other lines seem to be appropriately connected.

Later

Tom

 

So further to my vacuum, high idle problems. I've removed the purge canister; WOT relay, air pump, TAB and TAD with solenoids. I have heard that I should leave the TAB, TAD solenoids connected electrically, is this required? Also, I have the EGR valve still on the intake, but the
re-circulation piping going to exhaust manifold is capped off. Am I going to be able to run the engine successfully this way ?

I still need to check the vacuum lines, I currently have a T fitting with one line going to the front of the intake manifold, connected to the EGR valve and the other going to the brake booster. What vacuum does the EGR valve require?

Tom

 

Tom I am looking for some advise. I am doing an simlair project only its an 5.0 out of an 93 f 150 going in to an 54 f100. I have already removed the air pump and caped the line comeing out of the back of the heads. I don t under stand the tech words like purge canister; WOT relay, TAB and TAD. Can you give me direction I would also like to remove the EGR too So I don t need the black folgers can on the right side of the motor compt. Thanks for any help

 

I'm not sure if I read this wrong or not but do not connect the EGR valve directly to manifold vacuum.. that will just create uncontrollable idle problems, it must go through the control solenoid(EVR) if you want it functional, otherwise just remove it and put a blockoff plate on the intake where the valve was.

 

how did it all come out?