Loud Click in rear of expedition
#1
Loud Click in rear of expedition
I have a mind numbing loud click in back of my expedition. It is located in the driver's side rear interior. It is completely steady (electrical relay) and is coming from the area between the rear passenger door and the rear a/c heating fan. I have removed the panel that allows you to access the fan but the rest is enclosed.
In diagnosing the problem I began systematically removing fuses from electrical compenents in the rear area of the vehicle. Then I found it! Fuse 23 which is the 10A fuse for "Aux A/C, Heated Seats, Trailer Tow Battery Charge, Turn/Hazard Flasher, 4X4 Clutch Relay, Overhead Console, E/C Mirror, 4 Wheel Anti-lock brake system (4WABS) Module.
So the question... which of these would cause the LOUD click? I am leaning towards the 4X4 Clutch Relay because of some other little trans anomolies I notice, except that I don't know if this is the general location of that relay or if it is down at the transfer case, etc... I know very little of trans, much less 4x4.
Help Please!!!
TIA
Nosyguy
In diagnosing the problem I began systematically removing fuses from electrical compenents in the rear area of the vehicle. Then I found it! Fuse 23 which is the 10A fuse for "Aux A/C, Heated Seats, Trailer Tow Battery Charge, Turn/Hazard Flasher, 4X4 Clutch Relay, Overhead Console, E/C Mirror, 4 Wheel Anti-lock brake system (4WABS) Module.
So the question... which of these would cause the LOUD click? I am leaning towards the 4X4 Clutch Relay because of some other little trans anomolies I notice, except that I don't know if this is the general location of that relay or if it is down at the transfer case, etc... I know very little of trans, much less 4x4.
Help Please!!!
TIA
Nosyguy
#2
I suppose I have the same problem and partly satisfying solution to it.
My diagnostics attempts showed, that the noise is related to setting of rear climate control overhead/floor switch. There might be some sort of conflict between the driver's and passengers' control panel. There are certain combinations that make the sound come on and some combinations, that make it come off.
It is still annoying, that I can't set the climate control freely, but at least, there is a way how to turn off that bloody noise.
My diagnostics attempts showed, that the noise is related to setting of rear climate control overhead/floor switch. There might be some sort of conflict between the driver's and passengers' control panel. There are certain combinations that make the sound come on and some combinations, that make it come off.
It is still annoying, that I can't set the climate control freely, but at least, there is a way how to turn off that bloody noise.
#3
I suppose I have the same problem and partly satisfying solution to it.
My diagnostics attempts showed, that the noise is related to setting of rear climate control overhead/floor switch. There might be some sort of conflict between the driver's and passengers' control panel. There are certain combinations that make the sound come on and some combinations, that make it come off.
It is still annoying, that I can't set the climate control freely, but at least, there is a way how to turn off that bloody noise.
My diagnostics attempts showed, that the noise is related to setting of rear climate control overhead/floor switch. There might be some sort of conflict between the driver's and passengers' control panel. There are certain combinations that make the sound come on and some combinations, that make it come off.
It is still annoying, that I can't set the climate control freely, but at least, there is a way how to turn off that bloody noise.
#4
#5
I just checked again and you are right. The rhythmical continuous deep click noise comes from the starboard (passenger's side). Sorry for misleading and thank for encouraging tip, I'll have a look at it. :-)
#6
If it is the floor to ceiling selection that changes the noise, that is the easier of the two actuators to change. Pull the little change tray out from on top of the wheel arch in the back and look for a little beige box. The tray is held in by little barbs, so flex it along the long side by pulling it towards the center, and work it off from there. If it is a bib bother, you can just unplug it for now and fix it later. In either event, it is a quick job.
#7
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#8
If it is the floor to ceiling selection that changes the noise, that is the easier of the two actuators to change. Pull the little change tray out from on top of the wheel arch in the back and look for a little beige box. The tray is held in by little barbs, so flex it along the long side by pulling it towards the center, and work it off from there. If it is a bib bother, you can just unplug it for now and fix it later. In either event, it is a quick job.
Thanks a lot for your help. :-)
#9
I found your older post on that topic. It seems, that I'll need this: Dorman 604-202 - Heater Blend Door Actuator | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Thanks a lot for your help. :-)
Thanks a lot for your help. :-)
If you need the one for the ceiling / floor diverter door it is a different #. I think it is 604-209. I just ordered one from Rock Auto for about $42 with shipping.
#10
Well, what a confusion.
It seems to me, like it easily could be Dorman nr. 604213 which bears the very same description "cross-shaped shaft" as the original FORD/MOTORCRAFT part YH-1743 (http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/Re...1&plugin=false as seen here under code: 19E616).
It is quite important for me because I am about to order the part from the other side of Atlantic ocean, I would rather order the correct one, as I will pay dearly for the delivery and it takes quite a while too.
I am actually thinking about "plan B" as well.
I will check the option of replacing plastic wheels mechanism which causes the trouble with metal wheels if I can manage to get correct sizes. Is it complete nonsense? What you reckon?
It seems to me, like it easily could be Dorman nr. 604213 which bears the very same description "cross-shaped shaft" as the original FORD/MOTORCRAFT part YH-1743 (http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/Re...1&plugin=false as seen here under code: 19E616).
It is quite important for me because I am about to order the part from the other side of Atlantic ocean, I would rather order the correct one, as I will pay dearly for the delivery and it takes quite a while too.
I am actually thinking about "plan B" as well.
I will check the option of replacing plastic wheels mechanism which causes the trouble with metal wheels if I can manage to get correct sizes. Is it complete nonsense? What you reckon?
#11
Well, what a confusion.
It seems to me, like it easily could be Dorman nr. 604213 which bears the very same description "cross-shaped shaft" as the original FORD/MOTORCRAFT part YH-1743 (http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/Re...1&plugin=false as seen here under code: 19E616).
It is quite important for me because I am about to order the part from the other side of Atlantic ocean, I would rather order the correct one, as I will pay dearly for the delivery and it takes quite a while too.
I am actually thinking about "plan B" as well.
I will check the option of replacing plastic wheels mechanism which causes the trouble with metal wheels if I can manage to get correct sizes. Is it complete nonsense? What you reckon?
It seems to me, like it easily could be Dorman nr. 604213 which bears the very same description "cross-shaped shaft" as the original FORD/MOTORCRAFT part YH-1743 (http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/Re...1&plugin=false as seen here under code: 19E616).
It is quite important for me because I am about to order the part from the other side of Atlantic ocean, I would rather order the correct one, as I will pay dearly for the delivery and it takes quite a while too.
I am actually thinking about "plan B" as well.
I will check the option of replacing plastic wheels mechanism which causes the trouble with metal wheels if I can manage to get correct sizes. Is it complete nonsense? What you reckon?
#12
The front (also top) actuator is actually the easy one to replace...on a 2003 or newer Gen. 2 Expy anyway. Maybe on the Gen 1 (2002 and older) it is different. That,s why it is important to mention what year you are talking about.
#13
No offense intended, but this type of information is what makes it difficult to determine what information in on line forums is correct and what isn't.
The front (also top) actuator is actually the easy one to replace...on a 2003 or newer Gen. 2 Expy anyway. Maybe on the Gen 1 (2002 and older) it is different. That,s why it is important to mention what year you are talking about.
The front (also top) actuator is actually the easy one to replace...on a 2003 or newer Gen. 2 Expy anyway. Maybe on the Gen 1 (2002 and older) it is different. That,s why it is important to mention what year you are talking about.
So, to anyone who is interested. Once you remove a couple of plastic trim pieces and pull back the large piece of plastic that covers the rear unit on the passenger side, you'll see just how simple it really is.
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