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Loud Click in rear of expedition

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Old 03-13-2009, 08:06 PM
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Loud Click in rear of expedition

I have a mind numbing loud click in back of my expedition. It is located in the driver's side rear interior. It is completely steady (electrical relay) and is coming from the area between the rear passenger door and the rear a/c heating fan. I have removed the panel that allows you to access the fan but the rest is enclosed.

In diagnosing the problem I began systematically removing fuses from electrical compenents in the rear area of the vehicle. Then I found it! Fuse 23 which is the 10A fuse for "Aux A/C, Heated Seats, Trailer Tow Battery Charge, Turn/Hazard Flasher, 4X4 Clutch Relay, Overhead Console, E/C Mirror, 4 Wheel Anti-lock brake system (4WABS) Module.

So the question... which of these would cause the LOUD click? I am leaning towards the 4X4 Clutch Relay because of some other little trans anomolies I notice, except that I don't know if this is the general location of that relay or if it is down at the transfer case, etc... I know very little of trans, much less 4x4.

Help Please!!!

TIA
Nosyguy
 
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Old 01-25-2011, 04:20 AM
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I suppose I have the same problem and partly satisfying solution to it.
My diagnostics attempts showed, that the noise is related to setting of rear climate control overhead/floor switch. There might be some sort of conflict between the driver's and passengers' control panel. There are certain combinations that make the sound come on and some combinations, that make it come off.
It is still annoying, that I can't set the climate control freely, but at least, there is a way how to turn off that bloody noise.
 
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Old 01-25-2011, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by mycroft
I suppose I have the same problem and partly satisfying solution to it.
My diagnostics attempts showed, that the noise is related to setting of rear climate control overhead/floor switch. There might be some sort of conflict between the driver's and passengers' control panel. There are certain combinations that make the sound come on and some combinations, that make it come off.
It is still annoying, that I can't set the climate control freely, but at least, there is a way how to turn off that bloody noise.
Are you sure your noise isn't on the passenger side? What you describe sounds like a blend door actuator for the rear HVAC. The floor/ceiling actuator is a snap to get at to disconnect and/or replace.
 
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Old 01-25-2011, 09:13 AM
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Nothing in the 4wd system would cause the noise you are hearing. The other guys have you on the right track, sounds like a rear HVAC issue. Shop manuals would be priceless in this case.
 
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Old 01-26-2011, 02:02 AM
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Originally Posted by alwaysfords41
Are you sure your noise isn't on the passenger side? What you describe sounds like a blend door actuator for the rear HVAC. The floor/ceiling actuator is a snap to get at to disconnect and/or replace.
I just checked again and you are right. The rhythmical continuous deep click noise comes from the starboard (passenger's side). Sorry for misleading and thank for encouraging tip, I'll have a look at it. :-)
 
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Old 01-26-2011, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by mycroft
I just checked again and you are right. The rhythmical continuous deep click noise comes from the starboard (passenger's side). Sorry for misleading and thank for encouraging tip, I'll have a look at it. :-)

If it is the floor to ceiling selection that changes the noise, that is the easier of the two actuators to change. Pull the little change tray out from on top of the wheel arch in the back and look for a little beige box. The tray is held in by little barbs, so flex it along the long side by pulling it towards the center, and work it off from there. If it is a bib bother, you can just unplug it for now and fix it later. In either event, it is a quick job.
 
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Old 01-26-2011, 08:00 AM
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I had a very similar noise on my Mountaineer. It was a plastic piece stripped in the blend door actuator & the motor kept running all the time.
 
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by alwaysfords41
If it is the floor to ceiling selection that changes the noise, that is the easier of the two actuators to change. Pull the little change tray out from on top of the wheel arch in the back and look for a little beige box. The tray is held in by little barbs, so flex it along the long side by pulling it towards the center, and work it off from there. If it is a bib bother, you can just unplug it for now and fix it later. In either event, it is a quick job.
I found your older post on that topic. It seems, that I'll need this: Dorman 604-202 - Heater Blend Door Actuator | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Thanks a lot for your help. :-)
 
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Old 01-26-2011, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by mycroft
I found your older post on that topic. It seems, that I'll need this: Dorman 604-202 - Heater Blend Door Actuator | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Thanks a lot for your help. :-)
You need that one if the failed actuator is the one for the blend air door.
If you need the one for the ceiling / floor diverter door it is a different #. I think it is 604-209. I just ordered one from Rock Auto for about $42 with shipping.
 
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Old 01-28-2011, 07:46 AM
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Well, what a confusion.
It seems to me, like it easily could be Dorman nr. 604213 which bears the very same description "cross-shaped shaft" as the original FORD/MOTORCRAFT part YH-1743 (http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/Re...1&plugin=false as seen here under code: 19E616).
It is quite important for me because I am about to order the part from the other side of Atlantic ocean, I would rather order the correct one, as I will pay dearly for the delivery and it takes quite a while too.
I am actually thinking about "plan B" as well.
I will check the option of replacing plastic wheels mechanism which causes the trouble with metal wheels if I can manage to get correct sizes. Is it complete nonsense? What you reckon?
 
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Old 01-29-2011, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by mycroft
Well, what a confusion.
It seems to me, like it easily could be Dorman nr. 604213 which bears the very same description "cross-shaped shaft" as the original FORD/MOTORCRAFT part YH-1743 (http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/Re...1&plugin=false as seen here under code: 19E616).
It is quite important for me because I am about to order the part from the other side of Atlantic ocean, I would rather order the correct one, as I will pay dearly for the delivery and it takes quite a while too.
I am actually thinking about "plan B" as well.
I will check the option of replacing plastic wheels mechanism which causes the trouble with metal wheels if I can manage to get correct sizes. Is it complete nonsense? What you reckon?
That's the one. It's the front mounted actuator that is a little harder to get to but still not real difficult. The two actuators are not interchangeable. The front one that you described a little more expensive at the dealer.
 
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Old 01-29-2011, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by tseekins
That's the one. It's the front mounted actuator that is a little harder to get to but still not real difficult. The two actuators are not interchangeable. The front one that you described a little more expensive at the dealer.
No offense intended, but this type of information is what makes it difficult to determine what information in on line forums is correct and what isn't.

The front (also top) actuator is actually the easy one to replace...on a 2003 or newer Gen. 2 Expy anyway. Maybe on the Gen 1 (2002 and older) it is different. That,s why it is important to mention what year you are talking about.
 
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Old 01-29-2011, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002
No offense intended, but this type of information is what makes it difficult to determine what information in on line forums is correct and what isn't.

The front (also top) actuator is actually the easy one to replace...on a 2003 or newer Gen. 2 Expy anyway. Maybe on the Gen 1 (2002 and older) it is different. That,s why it is important to mention what year you are talking about.
Not offended sir but to clarify myself, I used the term front as this was the term used by the Ford dealer's parts guy. He referred to them as the "top" and the "front". I'm not a tech or a mechanic. Simply using terminology used at the dealer. Additionally, in my signature, I have listed a 2004 Expedition. Simply trying to be helpful and to demystify this all too often recurring issue with this generation of Expeditions.

So, to anyone who is interested. Once you remove a couple of plastic trim pieces and pull back the large piece of plastic that covers the rear unit on the passenger side, you'll see just how simple it really is.
 
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