To remove, or not to remove? The age old EGR valve question!
Ok everyone, so we need everyone's opinion that has removed their EGR valve from their 5.0.
Answer the following questions please.
What kit did you use?
If not a kit, what exact size plug did you use for the intake?
Did it cause any problems, CEL or KOER codes?
Did it effect your gas mileage at all?
Did it cause you to use oil or any other odd effects?
Did it do anything at all or just clean up your bay?
Post up! We all want to hear your opinions!
__________________ Stoney | Montana Chapter Leaderof FTE Live in Montana?Come joinThe Montana Chapter,
1993 Ford F150 XLT 4x4 5.0 5spd with a Fresh Rebuild
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I was hoping someone would have responded to your post, I have a "90 EFI in my 1950 F1 and have removed the EGR by welding up the return "tube" off the exhaust manifold. I've also recently removed the air system, so now the 5.0 idles high and seems to miss slightly.
I was hoping someone who has "modified" a 5.0L would jump in and rescue me.
Mine was leaking around the egr valve body on my 92 f150 with a 302 5 sp. Didn't want to buy one. I made up a metal blocking spacer for the intake side and a small round piece of metal for the hose side and tightened it up on my egr valve. I left the vacuum line still hooked up so the valve still opens and closes but is plugged on both sides. Fixed the leak and sill runs great. Didn't notice any difference other than no exhaust leaks. I also took off my smog pump and lines but left the solenoids hooked up electrically. Then removed both cats. Built my own exhaust. I love it, much more power, but I think my cats were plugged before because it stank badly. I haven't drove it alot yet. It's my winter vehicle. Have a mustang convert for the summer. But seams to be getting a lot better gas milage also. No cels.
EGR active or disabled make very little difference to engine operation, it won't be noticable unless your truck has an issue already and is detonation prone. Also if your truck has the DPFE EGR system then it's impossible to disable it without triggering a CEL. I ran my 5.8 for a few years with a piece of sheetmetal between the valve and intake and the motor ran fine, but it was also running on a mustang computer at the time.
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Paul O
1990 F150 4x4 XLT X-Cab 5.0, 3.55, Comp 35-349-8, Flowtech LT's to 3" single, FRPP Mass Air Conversion
Under construction: '85 351HO, Dart Iron Eagles, 1.6 RR, Typhoon intake, Crane 444232, 24lb Injectors, TweecerRT, Innovate LC-1 wideband O2
1990 Ranger 2wd, 2.3 Briggs & Stratten, 5-speed, 3.08 gears, and now power steering!!
Ok, so my how to post isn't done yet but YOU CAN remove the EGR with no ill effects.
__________________ Stoney | Montana Chapter Leaderof FTE Live in Montana?Come joinThe Montana Chapter,
1993 Ford F150 XLT 4x4 5.0 5spd with a Fresh Rebuild
Write your congressman!
When unleaded fuel was first used in the early '70's , combustion temps rose dramaticlly , creating a chemical (KO small x , could be off a bit) that when combined with sunlight creates smog. The worst being in some major cities on the west coast. Thus why CA is more stringent about emmisions than the US.
Here comes the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation ) valve. Designed to dump inert dead already spent exhaust gas into the combustion chamber with the air/fuel mix resulting in a smaller combustion .... lower combustion temps. Usually at cruise rpm.
Now the thought of not burning a perfect air/fuel mix after spending hundreds on induction goodies will drive a guy nuts....WHAP...off ,plugged egr,etc . Perhaps for a racing application...or not.
BUT , for a normal driver where the EGR kicks in at "cruise" rpm....like Conaski said , you'll never know it.
My take......HEAT DESTROYS . Running without a EGR working will cut the life of the engine. Maybe not much..... but what's wrong with a little insurance if a guy doesn't need the optinum mix at cruise speed ? Like..is there a better , smoother , whatever way to drive 65mph than ....65mph ??
Of course the EGR valve can be a pain...housings leaking ,dumping exhaust gas when it's not supposed to ,valves hanging up ,etc.
I think if a guy understands the valve and when it is supposed to be dumping and not , than one may be more apt to repair it than rip it off.
my 2cents
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If you ride...wear a helmet. State of Nebraska made me....and i'm here telling u about it because of it .
Excellent response bonzi88,i have small repair shop and would advise you to fix the system and not remove..If you have an egr system,the ecm is programed for that system.When it is not functioning correctly,the computer could go into open loop mode{limp mode} then you could suffer dropped mpg and performance..Whan a ecm is in open loop mode,it receives data from sensors but does not adjust the paramotors of the engine accordingly...Good Luck
The EGR valve works off idle it is hooked to ported vacuum not manifold vacuum it is also running through a thermister a temp operated vacuum switch. When the engine is cold the EGR valve will not work. once heated up the EGR valve will only open off idle. if it is stuck open when you go to idle there will be rough idle or stall out.
But what the EGR valve does it actually takes up space in the engine resulting in less fuel being pulled into the cylinder but making it pack the cylinders more so it takes less fuel to make power and you basically get a slight increase in economy. Only way it hurts performance is your not getting as much fuel into the cylinder when off idle to make all power. You could simply just clamp off the vacuum line and the valve shouldnt open.
I kept mine on my 78 and I have no problems with it runs great and gets better gas miliage than the factory listed.
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~Vehicles Owned~
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 4V - Ford-O-Matic
1963 Chevrolet Belair - 283 V8 4V - Powerglide
1978 Mercury Cougar XR7 - 351W V8 2V - FMX
1982 Ford F150 - 302 V8 2V - C4
1988 Ford Escort GT - 1.9L EFI HO - 5spd Manual
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