ahh i see basically to pressurize the fuel to compensate for the extra air being forced in almost acting as a fuel pump sort of. i understand now. I wonder if it will make the tractor noticeably faster. ill put it all together since i have it in my garage now to make it into a 4x4 mower, lol i am very devious. i have 2 hydrostatic automatic rear axles and im mounting one up front and fabbing up a linkage to make them both work at once for full time 4x4. yes i know im crazy.
4WD tractor would be sweet. If you keep the governor linkage on the engine, it won't be noticeably faster, but you'll certainly have a noticeable amount of more power. You could take the governor off and let the engine rev to the moon, which would get you going fast, but then you'd risk blowing the motor
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- Ian
1987 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 2.9
Needs a lot of work, including some rot on the body, but shes getting there.
i swear ive tried everything to blow this motor and trans for the past few years to no avail lol. the governor isnt hooked up right now but i barely ever rev it high (just like to know that i can if i want to) Other than screwing around in the woods where it can get into tight places since i removed the deck and lifted 2 inches(planning on an inch or two of more lift) but other than that i use it to pull dead cars around.
i swear ive tried everything to blow this motor and trans for the past few years to no avail lol. the governor isnt hooked up right now but i barely ever rev it high (just like to know that i can if i want to) Other than screwing around in the woods where it can get into tight places since i removed the deck and lifted 2 inches(planning on an inch or two of more lift) but other than that i use it to pull dead cars around.
where do you live??? i want to to try to kill myself on this contraption. lol. sounds like alot of fun.
lol im in massachussetts. and yeah its fun lol just something i mess with when i have time to kill. i tried doing the same with an old pos john deere and well ended up with a picture window in the back of the engine block lol. ive only managed to flip this over once but it has a kind of rollbar on the back i made which keeps you somewhat safe. redoing the exhaust and the 4x4 is the next things im doing. ill have to get some pics when its all done lol
I am not sure I understand how you are going to use the steering wheel on the 4x4 unless you are fabing Ujoints or some kind of knuckle in the axles. Otherwise you would have to have brake steering like that on a crawler. Now my head is getting jumbled with how you are pulling off the 4x4 part.
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Stock 1978 F250 Custom regular cab 4x4 with 351M and 4 spd.
1991 Bronco silver anniversary, 5.8L EFI, E4OD swapped for C-6, custom trimmed rear fenders finished in rust.
2009 Fusion SE 2.3L 5spd Red/black cloth n leather
i am going to have to change the steering a little bit to make it work. the toughest part is going to be the linkages for speed control as they are going to have to flex somehow. the lawntractor uses a belt driven trans and im going to try to keep it like that. im trying to find some diagrams for a few lawn tractors that were produced with a rear steer design. i may do something like that and then have the front axle welded in position. Its something ive never really seen and wanted to try. i have all the pieces or can make them so it shouldnt cost me anything really. its just a matter of getting it all together. i had a inline 4 cylinder renault engine on a lawn tractor with a shortened chrysler rear end and drum brakes with a 4 speed manual trans but i sold that to my neighbor. that one i setup to be chain driven with a huge ass chain from the back of the trans to the rear end. and was easy to "regear" it just by changing chain pulley sizes. hell it even had a car steering column that had the ignition switch and steering functional. not one of those crazy v8 mowers but the 80 or so hp that inline 4 had moved that tractor damn well lol.
Unhooked and removed all of the smog crap associated with the thermactor pump and I am going to experiment tonight.
I'm using the original baffle for the smog pump that sits on the passenger wheel well and I will put a conical fram filter to fit. I then plan on running hose from the outlet of the air pump to the vacuum port on the side of the throttle body just before the throttle plates.
It will cost me nothing and I just want to try it because I'm bored haha. I'm thinking that starting with larger hose at the pump outlet and incrementally going to smaller hoses until it is finally connected to the vacuum port, will compress the air slightly further. I have a 5.0 302 speed density and will use the air pump as a supplementary intake air supply by keeping the factory intake as well.
I gotta ask... just out of the pure curiosity of it... are you saying your going to attempt to use your factory air injection pump, to introduce "compressed" air through a vacuum port into an open plenum. Then, using the motors vacuum, introduce this charge to the combustion chamber for a performance increase?
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Feel free to google it first dude, as you can already see by the thread your not the only one to try. You'd probably have better luck (none) with the leaf blower :P
I was under the impression that the vacuum port on the throttle body of the 5.0 (originally used for the charc canister) was pre throttle plates, thus not being directly injected into the open plenum and moreso as a supplementary air supply to the factory intake.
Scratch that idea I guess haha chalk that one up to wayyyy too much thinking while on the john lol
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lol
