Ive got a 2002 f250 Sd 4x4 with 93000. Im getting severe vibration from the front drivers side at highway speed. I thought it might be a warped rotor but i cant feel it in the brake pedal, when I put the brakes on. How can you tell when the hub bearing assembly is going bad? The truck doesnt pull to that side either. I can hear it, and feel it more when i'm going around highway corners. When im driving through town, I can hear a "clunk,clunk,clunk" noise coming from that side also. Thanks

 

You have the signs and symptoms of a bad bearing assembly. I had the vibration at highways speeds and a noticeable clunk when I hit bumps. I jacked up the tire and checked for excess tire play, which of course it had. You might want to check your front axle u-joints also. I now have a vibration in my front drivers side due to a bad u-joint. When I unlock the hubs, the vibration goes away. Lock them back in, and the vibration returns at highway speeds.
JEV

 

I assume when you have the vibrations you do not have 4wd engaged.

Mine had the 4wd quit which was indicating a bad hub seal. When I was driving it to the garage windows down, a/c off and turned I could hear a squeek in the right front wheel.

I pulled down the wheel and found the bearing had metal powder shavings at the seal area. The flange also had movement. So one test is to jack the truck and pull the bottom/top of the wheel to see how much movement. On a new bearing I see total not over 1/16" estimate and not sure it has much at all. The defective bearing had much more movement. I bought my replacement bearing from Autozone for about $350 and it was timken. The timken co. makes good bearings and it is working well. I just ordered a replacement on the other side on ebay for a very good price. Interesting though it comes from Canada and the currency rates helps make it a good deal. Don't know what brand but investigation into the co found they sell lots of bearings and feedback is 100% positive. So time will tell if this is a good deal. My corvette parts also come from canada so the ebay part might be actually a factory part. The part # is identical and the communication is good from the co. I have a schedule date of delivery this week on the tracking. So if you want to do the repair yourself this is not a difficult repair if you do it before you damage the axle shaft.

 

The vibration is still noticeable in 4 wheel drive, its just not as bad. Its auto 4x4, and my vacume hubs are still working. Ive noticed the vibration/noise for a while now. Its just recently that Ive been able to pinpoint where its coming from.

 

I suspect wheel/hub bearing. Pull the wheel and check it out.

 

Will the axl shafts fit through the hub bearing hole, or will I have to take the ball joints apart to get them out? I might as well change the u-joints as long as the hubs are off.

 

Follow this procedure to inspect the needle bearings/hub assembly.

Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Needle Bearing Maintenance Web Page

 

With the hub bearing off the axle will fit through the hole but do it slowly so the end of the shaft doesn't damage the seal in the differential. Just hold the weight up and move slowly, it will come out.

 

It will slide right out. You will just have to remove the large seal/gasket that is behind the wheel bearing assembly. Be sure to replace it with a new one.
JEV

 

what is the trick to getting the wheel bearing back on? ive followed guzzles and the frontiernet one and poured over the forum but still no luck. my local mechanic came by and said because the whole wheel bearing was pulled off (to grease the needle bearings) that it screwed it all up and now i need a new one for $400. followed the write-up exactly but it just wont go back on far enough to get the retainin clips seated. pita.

 

Are you sure you have the washers in the right order? I had one on the wrong side of the hub when I tried to put mine back together the first time. I tried everything I could think of to get that clip on. After getting the washer stack right, it went on with very little effort.

 

Thanks for the reply. I have checked the washers over and over again - all are being put back in correct. But...the seat for the retaining clip isn't out far enough towards me that i can even get it in. It needs to come out (or the hub needs to go in) about a third of an inch still.

My theory is this.... I had a real bad time getting the hub off because one of the studs was seized on but didn't realize that until late in the game. I had been trying with a 3-jaw puller which couldn't get it out until I put the torch to it.

So maybe with all that force during the failed attempts with the jaw-puller it pushed in the axle that much? Just trying to stab in the dark before I eat the $400 tomorrow.

 

The axle will move in and out some without being a problem. Try putting a prybar behind it and giving it a little tug to see if it will shove the axle to the outside enough to get the clip on.

 

okay thats what i was thinking. thanks so much for the reassurance. i'll give it a whirl in the morning.

 

Man, I forgot about posting this thread. Since my OP Ive found that the caliper on the d-side was bad. it was locking down on the caliper and dragging. When I removed the caliper, the brake pad material was broken away from the pad mounting plates. the pad material just fell out on the ground when I took the caliper off. I also found the front drive shaft splines are worn pretty bad. The new caliper assembly helped alot but there is still vibration at highway speeds. Im thinking its the front driveshaft assembly. Ive got 126,??? miles on it now, and its to the point that i just want to get the remainder of my loan paid off, and trade or sell the Superduty and buy a different Ford SD or f-150.