Last week I noticed some oil spots on the ground under my truck.I found that the shaft on the EBPV was leaking.I decided to gut the valve.


You can see it had been leaking a while.I removed the snapring and the plug on the housing.Then took out the shaft and the seals.



I used a 1/4" pipe tap to make threads for a plug were the shaft went.



After a good cleaning I reinstalled the cover and snapring in the housing and installed the pipe plug with teflon sealer.To seal were the shat went.



I removed the flap in the exhaust housing buy grinding the rivets and punching them out.



I used a socket to drive out the sleeve that the shaft went through.



Then after it was out I welded one of the ends closed.



I I reinstalled the sleeve that I welded back into the housing and put the snapring back in.



Here's the housing installed with the flap that the EBPV works removed.


I also installed a 1.00 exhaust housing while the turbo was out.

I did not plug in the valve after I put the turbo back in because the valve was gone and I didn't want it to rob the turbo of oil.

I have noticed about a 50* drop on my EGT.And the truck pulls better on hills.

If you guys see anything I have done wrong let me know.

 

Looks real good, Brad. I have a van turbo sitting in the garage that I am waiting on the money to put an ATS housing on it and rebuild and at the same time I will be gutting the EBPV.

 

Id be interested to hear if your spool up has changed at all. I have been able to get almost 7 psi at 1500 rpms. (even on my 80 tow) lugging it and being a jerk like I shouldnt.

 

Brad...Looks good.Mine looked about the same.All removed and plugged up now.Sure like the sound of the Wicked Wheel...Now everybody is going to larger housings and van turbos

 

Mike,It does spool a little faster.were I notice the difference is on take off,It picks up a litte quicker and on the hills it seems to pull better and not lugg down so fast.

I can hit 24 on my boost at WOT.Before it was 21,22

 

Nice job all around Brad. I have to do mine one of these days.......

 

Do us guys in the cold temps really need this EBPV? I would love to gut mine but we get some cold winters....

 

Ron (Rons Power Stroke) gutted his and it gets pretty cold in NH where he is.

 

Thanks,thanks,and thanks.

Jim,wish I was closer I'd bring the Beer.and give you a hand.

I will find out in the morn.It's going to be around
35*.I didn't plug my truck in for this reason to see what will happen.

I think were I live I can get by with it because I all ways plug it in.And our cold snaps don't last to long.

 

If working properly, the only time the EBPV does anything is during idle. It should not function at all when you are starting or driving.

If you start your truck and let it idle to warm up, it will take a lot longer to feel heat from the heater core but I don't believe it is good to let our trucks idle for extended periods anyway.

The best thing to do is to start and go, just don't push it very hard until the engine comes up to temp.

The EBPV sensor and exhaust tube is a different story. It is my understanding that the PCM uses input from the EBPV sensor and is calculated into the fueling tables.

 

Bob,the only place I left it unpluged was at the pedestal.I don't know how it will affect anything there as far as fueling goes.

 

Thanks guys! I may have to jump on this one, I would love to get rid of that junk!

 

The PCM will continue to receive signals from the sensor so unplugging the actuator control will only throw a soft code to the PCM. I don't THINK that will interfere with the fueling.

I have actually had some guys tell me that their fuel mileage improved when eliminating their EBPV sensor so what do I know.

Seeing how things seem to run rough when the EBPV tube gets clogged, I don't think I will eliminate my sensor when I gut the pedestal.

 

It's only a 20 hour trip

 

I wonder how much of that difference is in the wastegate adjustment. Im not sure, but I would imagine spoolup to be slightly slower, going from the .84 to the 1.0 housing. That was mainly why I was interested. I wonder how much of the difference was from possibly slight boost leaks? Taking off the boots, cleaning them up, and then re-tightening could have helped your overall boost performance, but then again, so could the wastegate adjustment. The housings may be just enough different, that even with no adjustment from you, it could actually have tightened it some. Who knows, glad to hear the truck is running well though. Ive been thinking of the 1.0 housing, just havent decided to execute yet.