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Old 03-10-2009, 12:34 PM
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Jessicas tale, the story of a dead truck

so here are some posts from a different thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by BradyCouchman View Post
i have a mid 80s 460 in front of a C6 in my 1970 F350, So i was driving down the freeway (constent speed of 60) when all of a suden it started to make a pownding noise, almost sounded like a belt split and was thumping on something. so i pull over and it made the noise untell i turned it off (i almost thought it might be a flat tire that split). so i get out and cant see anything worng with the truck. so i get it towed home so i can work on it. well i go out and check everything i can see, the dizy cant move and when i canked it (twice, without the dizy cap on) the rotor turned and everything else turned too (alt, power steering, water pump). no pullys were loose. so then i decide to see it will start and see if i can hear it and find the noise. well the starter will engage the fly wheel but will not trun the motor over. so i put a breaker bar on the crank and i could not get it to move at all. and i really tried to get it to. so now my question to all of you, what do you think it could be or how could i fine out without having to really pulling the engine apart?

any help will be great.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradyCouchman View Post
the engine when i first got it home would crank but now it will not, not even by hand with a breaker bar.

the other question i have is if i do need a new engine what way would you all sugest? new crate egine, long block?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigrigfixer View Post
Dump the oil, see what you can see in it. If you can't see anything there, you'll have to pull the pan.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradyCouchman View Post
i am not sure i can pull my pan without pulling the motor, but i think i will drain the oil tomorrow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jake08 View Post
Pull each plug. Each one will tell its own tale. Good luck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradyCouchman View Post
i did pull them all and nothing really looked all that off, i can take pictures of them but not sure if it would help or even if it would come out right.

i also pulled the starter and the flex plate doesnt look bad.

in the AM i will drain the oil.
Quote:
Originally Posted by orng1 View Post
Maybe a bent valve, take the valve covers off and see if anything is obviously out of place.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradyCouchman View Post
that is also on the list, i have a new seal for the drivers side so i will start on that side.

i can see it now i will tare down the whole engine in the truck before i find what is wrong....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockstone View Post
Brady- Oil pressure, oil temp and water temp gauges were fine before this happened?
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradyCouchman View Post
the water temp was fine, oil pressure was fine (as good as the stock gauge works), dont know the oil temp. but it didnt look/sound/smell like it was over heating when i opened the hood on the side of the freeway.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockstone View Post
You did all that wiring, and didn't put good gauges in? tsk-tsk. lol. Like has already been said pull the valve covers and then the pan. You will probably have to raise the motor to get the pan off. good luck
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradyCouchman View Post
ok all oil drained and both valve covers off. here is what i found:









this is the biggest thing in my oil...there was not much of it. (the blue is a glove and the little brow item felt like grim or dirt or metel shavings


i couldnt find anything wrong or that looked different then the rest of anything. to see all the different pictures go here: Ford Trucks pictures by bradycouchman - Photobucket
Quote:
Originally Posted by 75F350 View Post
As the process continues you will end up taking the timing chain cover off to see if the chain broke. You have have a busted gear or chain and a piston is up against a valve.
You could loosten all of the rockers to see if they will free up a piston. Once all of them are loose are removed, it should isolate the valve train from the equation.
If the engine turns after that, you can then remove the timing chain cover to reveal what went wrong.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradyCouchman View Post
i have never worked on rockers, i am sure i can get them off but not sure about getting them back on. but i am sure i can get the tiiming chain cover off and back on. along with all the other stuff, water pump, fan....)


thank you, i will let you know, but i think mine would be rebuildable (atlest get a core charge back)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi Petrol Head View Post
Brady, Sorry to hear about your probs - It looks as if you have a coolant leak at the t/stat housing as well. I would have to agree with 75F350 - loosen of the rockers one cyl at a time and try to turn the engine over by hand. But i think that you'll find a few may be hanging up if the timing gear/chain has failed. Good luck!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 393STROKER View Post
Dont sweat it, pull it and do a teardown
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Old 03-10-2009, 12:41 PM
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so the water/coolent is out (only about 3 gallons)


a 5 gallon bucket:
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Old 03-10-2009, 12:42 PM
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oh and the dark spots on the ground is the oil i droped yesterday
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Old 03-10-2009, 04:40 PM
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mystery solved!

so some pictures before i tell what is wrong.






so now what we found (the parts we could get out.



this is how we did it



so we are almost sure it is a conecting rod, we could push it around but the other parts were to big to pull out.
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Old 03-10-2009, 04:46 PM
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It's toast.
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Old 03-10-2009, 04:49 PM
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thanks again for the help steve.
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Old 03-10-2009, 04:52 PM
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Bummer! Well, a long block is the easiest route anyway. Just not the cheapest.

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Old 03-10-2009, 04:58 PM
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Dude, that sucks.

So.

What are your plans now? PSD? Cummins swap? Another 460?

Or is this one salvageable to rebuild?
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Old 03-10-2009, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpounds View Post
Bummer! Well, a long block is the easiest route anyway. Just not the cheapest.

but if the rod hit much (all those bangs i heard) i will have to replace enough to pay for a $1,800 460 long block...
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Old 03-10-2009, 05:07 PM
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What ever you decide to do Brady make sure you go BIG. It's a sweet truck man. Sorry the engine is toast.
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Old 03-10-2009, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradyCouchman View Post
but if the rod hit much (all those bangs i heard) i will have to replace enough to pay for a $1,800 460 long block...

Yeah, that's what I was trying to say. If you've broken something in the bottom end, I don't think you can rebuild for the cost of a long block. Unless you just replaced one hole, and I don't think you would do that.

I hope you pull it and open the pan. I'm curious as to what all those pieces are. Can't tell much from the photos.
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Old 03-10-2009, 05:34 PM
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i have to, not sure a long block comes with a pan or not...but i will pull my pan off, there should be a BIG piece in there...
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Old 03-10-2009, 05:38 PM
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that sucks brady! i think you should forget what everyone else is saying and put a cobra helicopter jet engine in that thing , you already have a rare truck make it one of a kind with a chopper jet engine in it and itll HAUL too, towing might suck youll have to dump the exhaust out the side, not too close to the tires though, wouldnt want to melt them!
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Old 03-10-2009, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by bpounds View Post
I'm curious as to what all those pieces are. Can't tell much from the photos.
I'd say piston pieces. Something heavy is laying in the bottom of the pan.

It will be interesting to see just what all went away. One thing's for sure - the crank is locked up tighter than a bulls ass in fly season. The cam will wiggle a little bit (mucho slop in the chain) but the crank will not budge at all.
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Old 03-10-2009, 06:10 PM
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There sure is a lot of space to work around that motor. Makes me a little teary for the good old days.

On the other hand, pulling a motor on the city street is not so much fun.
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