Well, it looks like the choke is sticking shut which is causing my issues with the carb.

Is there a standard cause for this other than a dirty carb?

 

Is it sticking or just not opening? I assume it has an electric choke, See if it has power to it with the key on if its just not opening.

 

The Choke is both electric and thermostatic.

The Engine has to be running for you to be able to read power at the Choke.

The Power for the Choke comes from the stator on the altenator.

It will read 7 volts DC on a multimeter.

If the Choke stove is blocked off or inoperable, this will also cause the choke to remain closed and can cause carb icing. The Choke stove is basicly a hot air tube. Fresh air goes from the air horn in the carb, goes to the choke stove in the exaust manifold where the air is heated and then enters the choke housing.

Also check the choke linkage for binding, the choke housing and spring for being broke, the area around the choke flapper being gummed up with deposits, etc... etc..

 

inside the choke IIRC, there is a little piston that rides in a cylinder and carbon hangs this up

 

They are year specific. You need to get the correct one for your truck, and year, if you replace it.


I am not sure I agree with this quote about year specific air pumps. The reason is, I picked an air pump from an older V8 and the only differance I found was the outlet was facing up rather than down. I unscrewed 2 bolts, turned the outlet around and it hooked up to my I6 with no other issues. I swaped on my original pully because it was painted and the shaft size was also the same. I belive the output of the pump is listed on a sticker on the pump but I dont recall any motor specific info listed there.
I had been told that if the pump spins freely and you can feel air pumping then the pump is good. (?)

Good Luck

 

I gave the advice that if they bolt, they fit.

 

You actually need the Carb Tag Number. They can be different between carbs of the same year.

Well unless the bearings shot and it makes noise from heck.

The air pump outlet is the thing to watch for, it can be different for each application. Some are in the backing plate, and some are in the housing.

As for the years, 1974-1983 F-100, 1975-1987 F-150/F-350 etc...

I was thinking about the Air Pump Pullies when I originally posted, and those can be very specific, but they are easily swappable.

 

Hello, the truck is running great - but takes a while to warm up. I'm curious if these inline 6's are just that way (it is 10 to 30 degrees F out in MN now) or if I might want to switch out the thermostat (perhaps its stuck open or something).

Thanks for all the help guys - its appreciated. Arne

 

Most inline 6's i have dealt with no matter what manufacturer, take what seems like forever to warm up. Ihave always wondered if a block warmer would help.