Alternator or generator for a 59?
#1
Alternator or generator for a 59?
I've finally got my 59 F-100 running well with no problems. Now i'm ready to get her out on the road and put a few miles on her, but its a pain having to keep the battery on a charger and hope to God that my truck will crank when i get back in it from wherever i'm going. The dash has a generator light which leads me to believe that 59's came stock with a generator? is this correct or did it run off of an alternator? If it is a generator, my grandfather mustve had it switched at some time because it now has an alternator (which is shot to hell!) The alternator on it is a Mistubishi alternator which i found rather weird to be on an old ford, but whatever thats not the point. My question would be #1 does anyone know where i can find a replacement alternator? and #2 would it be easier for me to switch back to a generator? thanks for all the input guys!
#2
I'd keep the alternator. Does the truck have an external voltage regulator or does the alternator have an internal one? My guess would be that since it is a Mitsubishi, that it is internal. Probably any alternator with an internal regulator that would bolt up would work OK. I'll let the experts correct me if I'm wrong and that happens a lot according to my wife.
#4
#5
Stay with an alternator - definately! But if yo have to replace it, I'd highly recommend you get a "One wire" alternator that has an internal regulator. Gm alternators are configured that way as are some later Ford/Motorcrat alternators. Get rid of that regulator and all that wiring.
I had my alternator made. There is a possibility that physical space (proximity to the block) was a consideration in choosing the Mitzi alternator. The folks at Tough Stuff made mine to order for $125. It's fantastic!
Here's the link of you want to shop:
Products :: Tuff Stuff Performance
Don't hesitate to give them a call and tell them what you have and what you need. They are super helpful
I had my alternator made. There is a possibility that physical space (proximity to the block) was a consideration in choosing the Mitzi alternator. The folks at Tough Stuff made mine to order for $125. It's fantastic!
Here's the link of you want to shop:
Products :: Tuff Stuff Performance
Don't hesitate to give them a call and tell them what you have and what you need. They are super helpful
#6
I found a working Ford/Motorcraft alternator in an abandoned car, but later picked up a rebuilt one with regulator (never installed) all for $25 at a swap meet. The tricky part is the mounting bracket (at least for a 223 six); I made one out of 1/4" thick bar stock, welded because I didn't have a way to bend it at right angles.
I spotted a chrome alternator bracket in speed shop for some V8 generator to alternator conversion. Maybe it could be adapted to a 223 (drill some new holes?).
A little searching will turn up some wiring diagrams for the conversion.
I spotted a chrome alternator bracket in speed shop for some V8 generator to alternator conversion. Maybe it could be adapted to a 223 (drill some new holes?).
A little searching will turn up some wiring diagrams for the conversion.
#7
There's nothing wrong with engineering a bracket. Many times in FORD'S master catalogs, if they no longer offer a part it will tell you to IMPROVISE. That's exactly what you did. The adaptation skill of making other things work is also a handy trait to have, like making that chrome bracket work. You can do it. If there's a will, there's a way.
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#8
Theres a company that offers a alternator that looks like the old generator. I was going to put this on my 56 but said no way when it said its a 1 wire hook up and its a internal regulator. I wanted something to keep the factory harness and the factory external regulator. So I am sticking with a generator. But a generator is only bad if you got alot of powered accessories I only have a radio.
Now a alternator and a generator are the same thing. I know generator is DC and alternator is AC current. But the newer cars are back to calling alternators, generators. Not to mention I have a 63 that says GEN on the dashboard for the idiot light but it came from the factory with an alernator.
But if you want the link to the place that offers the alternator that looks like the old factory generator let me know I will find the link. Its around $700 I think for it which was another killer for me besides how it wouldnt hook up to the factory harness without modifications.
I dont know if anyone knows this but I was reading on generator vs alternator and came across this about the 1 wire alternator conversion.
It is taken from this website. http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/Alte...atorTheory.htm
"Many "hot rod" style conversions use a modified internally regulated alternator to eliminate the two small wire connections and only leave the single large BAT connection to be hooked up. This is usually referred to as a "one wire" alternator - you only have to run one wire to it instead of the usual three wires. In this conversion, the dashboard indicator light is eliminated entirely, the field terminal is connected to the BAT terminal internally, and the connection to the other terminal is made inside the alternator. Conceptually, this conversion works like a factory system without the indicator light on the dashboard and with the remote voltage sensing wire connected to the back of the battery. There are several major drawbacks to this setup. One is that you have to to rev the engine up to approx 1100rpm once after the engine is first started for the alternator to begin charging - the alternator has to reach a high enough RPM so that it "self-excites". Another is that the field connection inside the alternator can allow a small current draw while the vehicle is not running, and this can cause a dead battery if the car is stored for a period of time. Lastly, you do not have the advantage of the remote voltage sensing feature and that means poor electrical system performance - dim headlights, slow wipers, and various other maladies. There are some great details on this at the MAD Enterprises website - check out their articles on the remote sensing feature, 1-wire vs. 3-wire alternators, and a great description of a typical muscle car-era Chevy charging system for more details."
Now a alternator and a generator are the same thing. I know generator is DC and alternator is AC current. But the newer cars are back to calling alternators, generators. Not to mention I have a 63 that says GEN on the dashboard for the idiot light but it came from the factory with an alernator.
But if you want the link to the place that offers the alternator that looks like the old factory generator let me know I will find the link. Its around $700 I think for it which was another killer for me besides how it wouldnt hook up to the factory harness without modifications.
I dont know if anyone knows this but I was reading on generator vs alternator and came across this about the 1 wire alternator conversion.
It is taken from this website. http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/Alte...atorTheory.htm
"Many "hot rod" style conversions use a modified internally regulated alternator to eliminate the two small wire connections and only leave the single large BAT connection to be hooked up. This is usually referred to as a "one wire" alternator - you only have to run one wire to it instead of the usual three wires. In this conversion, the dashboard indicator light is eliminated entirely, the field terminal is connected to the BAT terminal internally, and the connection to the other terminal is made inside the alternator. Conceptually, this conversion works like a factory system without the indicator light on the dashboard and with the remote voltage sensing wire connected to the back of the battery. There are several major drawbacks to this setup. One is that you have to to rev the engine up to approx 1100rpm once after the engine is first started for the alternator to begin charging - the alternator has to reach a high enough RPM so that it "self-excites". Another is that the field connection inside the alternator can allow a small current draw while the vehicle is not running, and this can cause a dead battery if the car is stored for a period of time. Lastly, you do not have the advantage of the remote voltage sensing feature and that means poor electrical system performance - dim headlights, slow wipers, and various other maladies. There are some great details on this at the MAD Enterprises website - check out their articles on the remote sensing feature, 1-wire vs. 3-wire alternators, and a great description of a typical muscle car-era Chevy charging system for more details."
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sunuvabug
1999 to 2016 Super Duty
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03-20-2018 08:15 AM
California Codfish
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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12-04-2012 06:18 PM
100, 1960, 223, 64, alternator, conversion, external, ford, generator, hook, make, motorcraft, regulated, regulator, truck