Component Life Cycle - how long do each of these last?
Just curious to know, on average, how long to each of these components (on an average 5.4 modular engine) last based upon your experience replacing or having to repair them? When did you have to replace them (time and mileage):
- fuel pump
- fuel pressure regulator
- coolant pump
- a/c compressor
- 4x4 shift motor
- pitman arm
- inner tie rods
- upper ball joints/control arm
- air compressor (for LLS system, if equipped)
- brake master cylinder
- front/rear brake calipers
- any of the u-joints on drive shafts
- cv joints on front (if 4x4)
Responses on any or all of these would be appreciated. Thanks.
cops are common but mine are still original at 156k, most need lower ball joints i did mine at 135k along with starter. iv heard alot of ppl change pitman are as well as idler arm. theres no grease fitting in u joint but mine is still original. alot have a whistle in the winter during cold start and so find it to be alt bearing, mine has been whistling for 3 years now and i never looked into it. thats all i know or experienced with my 99 5.4l
All components on average will go 3 yrs or 36,000 miles. Drivetrain good for 5 yrs 100K. Who do you think plays the parts mortality game better than the manufacturer? Many parts will last longer, some will die sooner, but there is one factor everyone forgets - how the part is used and maintained.
The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government. Founding father Thomas Jefferson
These are all great responses and very useful, thanks. The comment about the useage factor on a truck/SUV is right on; the wear it gets if it sits in a garage for years and is used only to haul family and groceries is way different than a full work vehicle. It is hard to predict when a component will fail. I've replaced items ahead of time that are common wear/high use, like the battery for example, every three years whether it needs it or not. I just went past the 100k mark and am looking at what could be next; IMO it's gonna be that starter and/or alternator. Since I am trying to keep this truck running for at least 3-5 more years - maybe longer - here's where I think the list is wrt to fixing/replacing things on my truck, maybe it's overkill in some cases, but it's cheaper than being stranded or without a working vehicle.... and definitely cheaper than replacing the entire vehicle these days:
- fuel pump (125k, or when I get time to do it, mine works fine for now, but I'd replace it mainly because the fuel level sender acts up in the top 1/4 of a tank, not really looking forward to that job though)
- fuel pressure regulator (I really don't know, but I would think the spring inside would have to be wearing somewhat....for me, maybe 150k... but it doesn't seem like a high wear or risky item...)
- COPs (I've never changed them, but I put new boots and springs on them when I changed the plugs at 88k, way ahead of the 100k 'Ford' interval; I also used copious amounts of dielectric grease on the boot and cop interface to the block, so they should last for a while; nevertheless, I have a spare set of 8 cops on hand in case one or more fail.....)
- starter (... this is the one component I'm watching closely; those cable posts and the starter take a lot of corrosion in that area of the block....)
- alternator (....again, I am guessing this is a high wear item, but expensive to replace; however, if one of the diodes goes in the rectifier, it could leave the truck stranded...)
- coolant pump (The only time I would do this is if I see a leak; too much work to just replace it at some later interval.)
- a/c compressor (Probably never unless it fails; there is no risk in running the truck with it broken. Also, I probably would have this done at a shop, to have them recapture the R134 and recharge it. Could I do it? Yeah, but it's best left to pros IMO)
- 4x4 shift motor (Mine got real corroded this winter and got stuck a couple times, so I may replace it this year, but I can't justify the time and cost right now since it is not a critical component to running the truck.)
- pitman arm (I am doing this in April; the steering feels like it is wandering a bit and I wanted to replace it with the inner tie rods ; I've already done outer tie rods and lower ball joints)
- inner tie rods (same at Pitman)
- upper ball joints/control arm (same as Pitman and inner tie rods)
- air compressor (for LLS system, if equipped) - In my case, I replaced it once at 68k. But mine runs a lot more that it should as I suspect a small leak in the rear air suspension bags due to age of the rubber. I so may just replace those, not looking forward to it though. Maybe this summer.)
- brake master cylinder (I may do this at 200k, only to replace worn o-ring seals)
- front/rear brake calipers (Same as master cylinder)
- any of the u-joints on drive shafts (Probably never unless I see something wrong with them)
- cv joints on front (if 4x4) (Again, as long as the CV joint boots themselves aren't compromised, I will leave these alone.)
I am pushing 250K miles and the only things on your list that I have needed to replace are the alternator around 200K and a few cops started going bad arounf 160K so I recently did them all. Also Rear U joints went bad in the mid 100K's.
Being a gearhead since my first car in 1968 (yeah I'm getting old), I am really disappointed in the quality of aftermarket parts. I will run the OEM stuff until it is absolutely dead. The stuff Ford put into these trucks, is for the most part, very good quality. I have 163,000 miles on mine, and I live in Minnesota, land of salt and more salt, and COLD. It's my work truck, so I leave it outside all year.The only things I have replaced are the alternator, serpentine belt, spark plugs, upper and lower ball joints, 1 tie rod end, 1 exhaust manifold gasket ( not fun). Front pads just yesterday, for the 3rd time, checked the rears which I did at 75,000, still over 50%, so just cleaned and lubed adjusters. I even still have the original battery since 1998. I should do plug wires, one will pull up now and then and it will start misssing and ticking (easy to find). Knock on wood, she still runs and looks almost like new.
Every wear item failure is based largely upon the conditions of use and abuse you put it through. COPS usually fail due to moisture trapped in the plug holes. Steering parts last longer without hauling heavy loads, or if you drive on nice southern roads without the thousands of potholes us northern drivers have to contend with.
You could have 2 identical trucks manufactured at the exact same plant in consecutive order, travelling the same miles and one will have more wear on parts than the other. Difference? Driving conditions, weight , abuse, neglect, accidents, etc.
A fuel pump is cooled by the fuel in the tank. If you consistantly run very low on fuel the pump overheats and cavitates, leading to premature failure.
Same for brakes, as per weight, driving conditions, driver attitude, and on and on and every part is generally the same .
Wash your truck regularly, drying it thouroughly and then parking it in a garage, and the paint will last longer, without rust developing, etc. Leave it outside, abused by the weather, never wash it, get a dent, leave it, neglect, etc, and before long it looks bad.