Have a 71, 429 I am planning to build & was thinking about doing a stroker, but need to ask if these numbers sound right for the build or should I just do a regular 460 build.
When building it into a stroker, can it be just a drop in of parts or is there alot of machining needs done to stroke one of these blocks.
According to the information I been reading, the D1VE block has a 10.310 deck height. Only thing about that, dont know what it means.
Now you give me a 2 stroke & its no problem with that & I know it means how close the piston top is to the cylinder deck or gasket surface.
On the block, D1VE-A2B, what does the -A2B mean ??
On the heads, one on the drivers side on the engine has the D3VE-A2A on the outside of the casting, but on the other side, it has D VE-A2A, why is the 3 missing or is it suppose to even have a 3 in the number.
What does the -A2A mean on the heads as well.
After reading in the forums about the stroker kits, I'm wondering about that now, cause I dont want to spend a arm & leg building one & looks like its not as simple as buying the parts & putting it all together.
Are the stroker kits not balanced, & if not balanced, can it be balanced external like the 460 crank.
This wont be a hot rod race engine, but one to pull a heavy load at highway speeds & distance.
Thanks in advance, Neil
Crank centerline to cylinder head mating surface of the block.
The numbers you're asking about are engineering revisions.
Some stroker *kits* can be balanced by the supplier but given the variables you'd be best off having it done locally after you've mocked up your build and checked clearances etc..
Hand off your entire rotating assembly to a crank shop and tell them what your expected RPM's are going to be.
(at least that's what Storm Crank wants from me)
So the deck height, 10.310 of what is listed for the D1VE block, from center of crank on main jornal, its 10 inches, 310 thousandths from the center line to the head gasket surface, deck.
See I was confused about that, I was thinking that was how far the piston was down in the cylinder bore at TDC.
Does that play a part as well, how far down in the cylinder the piston top is.
Well, it does affect C.R., valve clearance-depending on your cam/piston combo, and it will affect detonation due to quench (or lack of it) if that's what you mean.
Which kit are you looking at? Scat, Eagle, Ohio?
I've only built 2 'Strokers' and don't do my own machine work, but Monsterbaby (Rob) the Mod on this board seems to have lots of experience.
Though it is true "There's no replacement for displacement" You'll have to consider things like durability, altitude and availability of 'good' gas while on the road, in how far you intend to build your tow rig.
Really for what you are doing I think you would be better served putting your time & money into making the engine you -do- have more efficient.
Simple things like porting the heads, raising the C.R.(pistons), installing a new timing set, etc... can really wake it up without throwing more factors and machine work into the mix.
When out on the road, in the past when we first got the motorhome I used 87 gas & now after the engine troubles, I've gone to prem.
I have a 460 in the unit that I've been working on or should say had to be worked on from valves beating up into the heads.
Has the 3500 Summitt cam & lifter set & stellite valve seats in the heads now & I got to say its doing right well, I can feel the difference anyways.
This 429 I have, I'm building it as a replacement back up because the 460 has over 70,000 on it & for just in case.
Havnt realy picked out a stroker kit yet, looking on e bay just to get some idea whats out there.
Seams the Eagle & Scat kinda read to be the better but I got no idea cause I've never done one.
Reason I was thinking stroker, I'm grossing around 24,000 need the torque to pull out on the road.
If I did go the stroker route, probably the 514, looks like that would be simple & I wouldnt go broke trying to build it.
You think by this being a 429 I would be better off just going up to a 460 crank, up the CR maybe 9.5 or 10 & a good cam.
Porting the D3 heads no problem cause I do 2 stroke porting & did the exhaust side on the E8TE heads on the 460 in the unit now.
Tell you what though, when I got done porting those heads, that right hand knew it had been holding that hand piece carving for awhile. Man, just give me an aluminum 2 cycle jug any day.
I think I'd stay with a -max- 9.5 CR on pump gas in a heavy rig like that, but hey I'm cautious.
If you plan on doing your own porting I'd suggest you subscribe to the Rein "Car" nation website since Scott has built many 'utilitarian' 385 engines and has forgotten more than most will ever know.
He also sells the Scat stroker kits, Ferrea valves and custom ground camshafts, so if nothing else the price of admission is well worth his advice.
I know what you mean about working on cast iron! lol..
Looks like a 521 build is the way to go with the right dish pistons under the D3 heads.
Oh lord, my right hands already hurting & not even started cutting on the heads yet.
Let me ask this, you ever heard of anybody cutting the straight flat hump down in the exhaust port till you open into the water jacket & then weld it back up just to get more flow, or will that destory the heads.
Subscribe to the Mad Porters site and get the templates and all the info you need to do it right without screwing up.
He has hundreds, if not thousands of hours porting 385 series heads.
No one can tell you what he can show you.
Scotty Johnston="Mad Porter" one in the same..
He replied to your post over there and has a link to his site in his sig.
Along with posts from Paul Kane and Lem Evans. You can't ask for people more knowledgeable about making power from 460's