OK fuses are good----relay to fuel is good--- no power into inertia switch though even with original PCM . what powers the inertia switch???? that in itself is a full shutdown switch right? any anti theft gadget to be looking for? i doubt it b/c i was driving when it shut down. but the inertia is triggered by fuel system issues and the EVAP cans fell out while i was in motion, maybe they triggered the inertia and shorted that plug somewhere. all thoughts hugely appreciated.

 

I would check the fuel pump relay again.If you have power up to the relay and no power at the inertia switch ,then tere is a open between the relay and the switch .the wire is adark green w/yellow stripe.this same wire also sends power to the PCM. I would look for a bad socket at the relay or a broken wire or the relay it`s self.

 

Haynes manual will have the complete wiring diagram your Explorer. I have the same year as yours with the same engine. My suspiscion is that you have a broken wire somewhere. Another possibility is you have bad ground that was corroded and finally broke loose from where ever it was connected.

No spark and no ignition would not cause me to look at the fuel pump as the issue, It has to be something that controls power to both. Perhpas an ignition switch. No idea how many miles you have on the vehicle or the general overall condition which would help to know. You did mention some issues with corrosion on the straps that hold in the charcoal canister. This leads me to believe your broken wire may be corrosion related.

If you are getting 12V to the coil and you replaced the coil, wres, and plugs, the problem must be upstream of there. I am going to take a look at the wiring diagram I have and see if I can provide any useful input.

 

I took a look at the wiring diagram for the ignition and the engine control system. They copied it right out of the Ford manual. Problem is there are some descriptions,footnotes, etc, that Haynes left out that make analyzing this quite difficult with only the information they have provided.

You might be able to your hands on the Ford Service Manual on DVD rather cheaply. That will have all types diagnostic procedures for checking the condition of the various components of the system.

 

yeah, Haynes shows for the V8 and /or for the SOHC where i am neither....but the basics are the same, true. The milage is just over 150K and until i needed to pull the spare a month back, i thought the body was in good condition. the rust is all in that general area of the rear though. under the hood is not so bad considering it has its years on her. wet was the first thing we saw, wet from coolant spraying out of a small leak in the hose which we have corrected and I am still trying to dry the plugs at injectors. Otherwise it has pretty well been replaced at this point. the coil was soaked and the plugs just looked horrid so we did fresh wires with it all. the injector plugs and their immediate wires are the ugliest component left under the hood at this point. we had tested the fuel pump relay but not the pcm relay, Rod is checking it right now.... here's a question... will the power distribution box put out voltage on the meter as well (if we probe inside the relay pocket)? or is it just the relays we test? reason for asking is that we did check also the fuseable link to fuel pump and anti-theft (Rod thinks somehow something to do with the anti-theft has triggered the shut down) and he said there is no voltage inside the pow box. ???

Thanks for all your help, Jen

 

we changed the **** setting of the volt reader...... now the power box is showing #'s... good thing i should say, but i am back to no idea where to look next----the inertia is also showing power on this setting. I tried a speaker wire to jump from the box to test the relays again....now that we are using a different setting on the reader... and zero's, but not one -all---- what am i doing wrong, it can't be all the relays are bad, what do i need to test these suckers???? speaker wire obviously doesn't cut it... and i have to imagine the setting on the reader should be the same for all of these tests. sorry i am a retard, its nice to help the special people too though.
and still in the power box there is no read on the fusable link to fuel pump-anti theft. any ideas? thank you

 

If you are checking for power, you want to set the multi meter on 20V DC. Not sure how you are checking the relays. I generally check them by applying 12V to the input and checking the output. Relays come in all sorts fo arrangements so you need to understand how they operate before you check them.

 

Hey there- we finally have someone here that understands all of this a great deal better than I and we have determined the PCM relay is closing but the socket isn't...do I just need to replace the socket for it then?

 

85 and 86 have no read in pow dist box
relay itself is good though

 

30 and 87 are live on relay only one live with key on in box

 

we forced a closed circuit by jumping through to the battery directly but still no start- just cranking

 

pcm diod has power for 2 secs until solenoid stops but then not going into relay for pcm

 

So the PCM has power during cranking?

 

we are thinkin of runnin into town to pick up a new ignition switch-sure hate to throw another part into her if it is only one wire---any suggestions?

 

circuit doesnt close when cranking-couldnt jump it