As many new comers have found, the most common problem is wiring. The info abounds on this site. USE CAUTION. Amidst some of the same ole same ole debates and discussions, I decided to check on some things. First, it is VERY RARE to have the opportunity to inspect a 100% complete and original and undamaged wiring harness, and switches. I had this opportunity. I took and opened up the electrical on the F-750's harness. This harness is undamaged, to the point that the wiring still looks new. The truck has 7260 original on the odometer. Now, the F-750 is a 53. 53 and 54 are 100% identical, EXCEPT that the 53 has two temp senders. The 55, IS NOT EVEN CLOSE TO THE SAME. The 53/4 headlight switch is not voltage sensitive, it is nothing more than brass contacts molded into a backelite housing. The 55 is a 20 amp circuit breaker switch. The 53/4 has two 15 amp breakers that run the ignition switch, and the headlight park lights, etc. The wiring harness that is being passed around on here, IS NOT PERTINENT TO A 53/4 truck. If you use it, you will have issues. The ignition switch is not voltage sensitive, nor is the starter button, dimmer switch, turn switch, wiper switch. The heater switch is, is a circuit breaker switch. The 6 volt gauges have 9.9 ohms resistance across the terminals at ambient room temp, (approx 65* F) the 12 volts have 37-39. The 53/4 headlight switch DOES NOT HAVE ALL THE VEHICLE BATTERY POWER RUNNING THROUGH IT, as previously assumed, but the 55 does. The 53/4 headlight switch has two power in terminals, unlike the 55 which has one, and they both come off the circuit breakers. The voltage gauge on these trucks, is not a volt or amp gauge, it is a current flow meter, and does not measure voltage, or amps. It will work in either voltage 6 or 12, and it works fine with modern pvc wiring running though it. The enitre system does not HAVE to be pos ground, it will function positive, or negative ground, but terminals have to be swapped accordingly. So, do not get the copy of the commonly shared wiring harness if you are running a 53/4 truck, as it will be of little use, except for maybe color and size info. Oh by the way, the wiring itself is just old and clothe bound, but most of the actual individual strands inside each wire, are the exact same size and count as their modern counterparts, ie: 10 ga is 10 ga, 12 ga is 12 ga, etc., etc.

 

Thanks for the research. Replacing the wiring on my 53 is on the list. Thanks for the heads up.

 

I'm getting ready to rewire my 54 with a EZ kit and may want to use the original guage cluster, so this is very helpful. My truck had been converted to 12 volt before I got it and everything worked on the guages except the temp. The fuel guage finally gave up the ghost, but that may have been float issues or something else.

 

If someone wants to rewire their truck exactly the same as the OEM wiring, then buying a stock harness and wiring in accordance with the shop manual drawings is the best method.

Most of the time when folks are going to rewire, they are going to convert to 12 volt neg ground, and there are going to be changes in flow from the stock wiring configuration. They are called improvements.

These trucks are very simply wired and very simple to rewire using those improvements - for example fuses for each item instead of relying on single circuit breakers, etc. At that point, the components are reletively similar enough in characteristics to use generic wiring diagrams based on fundamental electrical signal path flow, or those that accompany the wiring harness you purchase.

Step outside the box.

 

All the gauges, except the battery meter, are voltage sensitive, so an electronic reducer, or a cheap trick is the best route to go. A complete set of gauges and senders is 269.95 from mid fifty. These are modern gauges, that are identical in fit and appearance to the originals. Or, you can score some 56's and swap the gauge faces and mounting plates. On the 53/4 headlight switch, there is one battery in terminal for the headlight function, and one battery in terminal for all the other lights. The headlight is run off a 15 amp breaker, and the other breaker runs the other terminal on the headlight switch (the park lights, and such). The ignition switxh, battery main, and the hot side of the starter button are attached by the same terminal, and are attached to the in side of the headlight breaker. There is a bridge strip that connects the other breaker to the headlight breaker. So, the ignition switch, and start button, are fed right from the battery, not the headlight switch, as is the 55, and the 56's.

 

Hey, you know what, forget it. I can't seem to post anything without getting dogged here. I'm real sorry if I am this for getting as much info as possible, and providing as much info as I can, within my means. Not everyone has a truck that is custom, and many want to keep them stock. So you know what, forget I ever said anything, I'll won't ever post again, since apparently I'm just some dumb kid that doesn't know anything, hasn't pursued any degrees in automotive technologies, hasn't ever stepped outside my mamas apron strings, etc., etc.

 

Hey wmjoe, stick around! Your post was very informative. I try to learn from other peoples discoveries/ mistakes......knowlege is power, opinions are just that, opinions. T/M

 

Didn't mean to offend wmjoe and it's all good info.

My point was simply that your research and conclusions are very much oriented toward OEM wiring and replacement to OEM specs. And that's super when replacing to OEM siganl flow.

I simply wanted to point out that there are other options that may not necessarily be wrong, or that folks have to be wary of as you stated, simply because they don't show original OEM signal flow - that's all.

I apologize if that was misinterpreted and I offended you.

 

Julie, Julie, Julie. We have to be careful what we say are "improvements". An improvement to one may be a hack job to another. We have been down this road before... I rewired my truck with OEM style cloth covered wiring harness I bought from Mid-Fifty. My truck runs fine, I am still using the 6 volt battery I bought in 1999! Yes, I know if you want modern accessories then you need to change over to 12 volt. But some us do not want to!

This is a forum for Ford Truck Enthusiasts in the years 1948-1960, any condition, stock, mild custom or radically customized. We need not dis those who look at things differently.

Julie, I know you meant no harm, but I am sure Joe was offended. I am finding myself not spending as much time on this site as more and more questions are more about custom trucks, and that is OK. I can skip the threads that do not interest me. But let's not offend others opinions when we all have something to offer.

I have been a member of FTE Forum since about 1998. We started the Light side versus darkside many years ago as a light hearted joke as we jabbed each other, but I am seeing it become a wider rift between us all.

Julie, don't take this the wrong way, I hope Joe stays around as I for one like reading about his big trucks...

As always,
Abe
and remember we all like Ford trucks and that is our main thread running though us!

 

Joe if you get a chance diagram that harness for me and anyone interested. Thanks