On my 2001 F-250 4x4 for whatever reason it has not started twice this winter.
I keep it in the garage in winter so everything will work better in the cold (Saskatchewan) including the hydraulic bale deck used for feeding cows/sheep on the ranch.
When it hasn't started both times, it fires once and then proceeds to spin over producing white smoke from the exhaust. When it is cycled through again the same thing happens but does not start.
If I plug in the block heater for 2 hours it then proceeds to start. I was told that it could be the CPS on the engine but fail to see how this would be affected or changed after being plugged in and then starting.
Does anyone think this could be more of a glow plug/electrical/sensor issue.

Like I said at the start, yesterday was the second time it happened to me all winter. Other than these incidents it starts and runs fine every time. The truck has about 225000 KMS on it. New batteries installed 2 winters ago so it turns over quite well and the rest is stock.

Any suggestions or tips most welcome here!

 

Do you try to start it when the WTS light goes out? The GPs will stay on for about 2 mins after the light goes out. Try turning the key on for 2 mins, then turn the key off, turn the key on for 2 mins then try to start it. You could also check the GPR (Glow Plug Relay) to make sure it is working.

 

Yes I try to start it after the light goes out. Will try your suggestion on starting next time I run it. Where would one check the glow plug relay at on the motor?
Thanks.

 

If you look on top of the engine, you will see 2 brown relays. The closest to the back of the engine is the GPR. There are 2 large post on top of the relay, the one with the rubber cap is the hot wire. This wire should read 12v at all times, the other large post on the relay is for when you turn the key on, this should have 12v also for a couple mins then go off. If this post don't have 12v with the key on, then the relay is bad.

 

One of these days we're going to teach Rick to post photos.

Here's a pic of the GPR.

 

Hey thanks for the photo there Chris. A picture is worth a pile of words...

 

This part here is telling me that it is a GP or a GPR issue. The only other thing that it may be is batteries. When the GPR is energized it take a lot of power. Your IDM needs to see 10.5 volts to fire the injectors.
Test the voltage at the GPR. Test your battery voltage before energizing the GP and while they are energized. Test the voltage at the batteries while some one is cranking the truck over. If suring the cranking you are under 10.5 that points to batteries.

 

Chris, I look in your gallery to find the pics I need, but you must have them hidden. . I also know if we wait for a few, you will post thim yourself.

 

I left it outside last night and didn't plug it in either. Wasn't too cold only about -6 C so it should have fired up. Tried it this morning but it only turns over not firing at all. Looks allot like the GPR but will get the volt meter on it this morning to see some numbers and go from there.

 

Checked voltage at the GPR - it was 12.28. The batteries were the same.
Ignition on - voltage dropped to 11.8 and dead on the glow plug side of the relay, so will proceed with a change of the GPR and see what happens. Started after I shorted both posts with ViseGrips for 30 seconds and then turned it over.

 

thats my problem also getting 12 at bateries and on gpr then when i turn the ignition on i get nothing

 

Change out the GPR and you should be good. Let us know how you make out.

 

i changed my gpr and still wont start it just cranks but wont fire up

 

Test for volatge on both sides of the large terminals in and out.

 

they're both getting 12 execpt when i turn on the ignition it goes to zero