I apologize if you think it was an insult, but I did not mean it to be by any means. I meant the statement to be like saying "the smart thing to do" not that anyone was dumb.

 

We had the 4:30 diff in the 05 V-10 and IMO had to have that for heavy towing. We have the 4:10's in the 08 6.4L only because we could not find one with the 3:73 in our area. The V10 was completely stock and it did all we asked of it. The 08 6.4 is completely stock as we are one of those folks that do not want to take the chance of voiding any warranty. After warranty....we will see... We weigh out at over 9200lbs and we run 60/65 towing or solo. We get better mpg at 45 than 55 and better at 55 than 65 and better at 65 than 75 and so one and so on.

We are now at 17,800 miles and it runs better and better as we add miles. After the recent flashes (we are a early job1) we easily get 18 on the interstate at 62MPH.
One really needs to practice and refine driving habits to get the maximum efficiency out of these trucks and that means easy on the pedal and watch the boost. Or just have fun..we do that on occasion and never mind the MPG... There are States that if you do 62MPH on the interstate you will be blown off the road (like I-10 Texas) speed limit 80MPH...Holy Moly...)

 

Man, I don't know what you're getting so defensive about. I put over 65k miles on a 2000 V-10, and 100k miles on an 2003 V-10; so I know the motor is as durable as a gas gets, which I stated earlier. Go read my first post again, I don't talk trash.

You can call me an idiot for removing my DPF; I could care less. Honestly, paying the EPA $10k for getting caught, or paying Ford $15k for a new motor is a lot cheaper than what it would cost if my 700 acre ranch caught fire from a 1200*F piece of emissions equipment underneath my truck. Kinda makes sense now....

The guy was asking about a 6.4 and V-10, it looks like all your everything you have said has been bad things about your old 6.0, or secondhand information from forums or friends. You're saying that a V-10 w/4.88's can tow the same as a 6.4 w/3.73's; ok but now you're talking about different trucks. If the only difference is the motor and nothing else the 6.4 will come out ahead every time. Unless you tow everyday a V-10 w/4.88's is just overkill, that's not just the V-10 tho. People complain about the 4.88's with a 6.4 too, but it was their choice when they bought the truck.

 

................With all the complexity of engines and their computerized control systems , it seems fitting too ask , IF , the Whole front end has to be removed to work on the engine of a V10 truck ? How much will a labor charge "BE" , just too remove the front end on a 6.4 prior too commencing repairs or diagnosis , After the warranty has run out ?
................I do know that too replace Both Turbos on a 6.4 will run you about $7,000 or so , sans warranty ! There are a significant number of 6.4 owners who CAN'T afford a major repair on their 6.4 without the warranty paying a majority of the cost . This will become more and more obvious as 6.4 owners loose their jobs . What once was possible , isn't SO , now ! Just something too consider when comparing a diesel and a Gas engine . , rb

 

They really don't pull just the front end off anymore. They lift the entire front section off including the cab, so the only thing left is drive train and frame. A good Ford mechanic should be able to do this in about an hour from what I've read on here.

Somewhere there is a video of them doing it, it's surprising how quickly it can be done.

 

I asked the local Ford dealer warranty department, I was doing my homework on the Ford ESP Extended warranty program, what the cost of a 6.4 motor is and how they determined if it was replaced or repaired. The answer was..IF the Total cost is 25K or over they will replace the motor with a new one...If it is under 25K they will repair it.
In terms of removing things or adding things,,your truck, your money, your choice.. no problems with that here. In our case, and our choice ,we can't afford that kind of hit IF something blows up so we will stay within the terms of Warranty...after that New game... We have also ran both the V-10 and the 6.4L under the same conditions....Two different motors..both do what they are designed to do and do it well.

 

It does not matter what kind of vehicle you drive if you lose your job. It's going to be expensive on any repair if no income regardless of purchase price. Just like buying a home. Weather it be a $200,000 home or a million dollar home. No income, no payments, no more home.

It will give piece of mind to buy a warranty and don't have to worry for a major break down. Atleast get a warranty that will covers the same amount of years and mileage w/ your financing of the vehicle.

There is no more now-a-days w/ the diesel option being 6,000 compared to a gasser in a 3/4 ton truck. With all the rebates w/ the diesel trucks it will come out roughly the same out the door. So that is a moot point now. Makes sense to get a diesel for roughly the same price as the gasser. The only significant price to maintain for diesel over a gasser is oil change. Since it uses more qts...

Diesel prices are about in line w/ gas when filling up. Some fuel stations out here, diesel is slightly cheaper. I am sure it will go in cycles.

 

Agree with all the above and that's why I'm glad my mortgage is paid off and only a few payments left on the truck. No debt otherwise and going to stay that way for a while.

 

"Makes sense to get a diesel for roughly the same price as the gasser. The only significant price to maintain for diesel over a gasser is oil change. Since it uses more qts... "

Same truck gas/diesel//near the same price..... not a chance... Following the same maint schedule the maint on a diesel is far higher. More oil, more filters, etc.

We will purchase the Ford ESP 7 yr/100,000 miles. I think if you had a chat with your local Ford dealer on what some of these repairs cost you may reconsider the ESP.

 

Yeah, damn near in price you can get a diesel compared to a gasser. Maintenance is not near what you think between both. Like I said, only a oil change is going to be slightly more on a diesel than a gassser (double). Fuel filters are not that much money at 10,000-20,000 interval changes. Basically everything else is going to be the same in maintenance (diffs, tranny, etc...). And I also have an extended warranty (no brainer).

That's the excuses gassers try to make when not buying a diesel. More maintenance cost, almost as good mileage as a diesel, save $6,000 in option, I don't tow/haul heavy, blah, blah blah......

In any form gassers are inferior to diesels........................................... .

 

We have had both.Following the same maint schedule the Diesel is far more..at least by my check book. Oil change every 6K miles (we tow heavy) 83.50 at a a ford dealership. The diesel is a far more complex motor ( Turbo's, ect) failures are costly. But that is all beside the point. Get the truck that best meets your all over needs. The cost to maintain goes with the truck. BTW the above post states pretty good reasons not to purchase a Diesel.

 

x2, I do agree w/ that sentence. I still think w/ the deals out there on diesels (any of the big three). It's worth it.

 

I don't know if it's just my area, but I've never seen a rebate on a diesel that would bring it down to the price of the V10. The only thing I have ever seen is a $1500 rebate for the diesel over the gas engines, not even half the option price of a PSD.

 

Don't just rely on rebates when you're buying a truck. Right now you can easily talk a dealer down to almost their cost. Everyday a truck sits on their lot costs the dealer money, the faster they can get it off the better for them. So they're willing to deal.

When I bough my truck back in 07' they were flying off the lots with no rebates. I ended up custom ordering mine and still got $13k off the sticker easily, about $1k-$2k over list. Deal with them, it's not hard. The diesels have a bigger mark-up because it's by far the most popular motor, if they marked up the gassers any more than they have they wouldn't sell at all.

Big tip would be to get to know your salesman, I knew the guy I bought my truck from and he printed out a sheet that had the dealer cost and MSRP for every option.

 

I use an A plan, no need to haggle for me. The only thing extra would be the rebates.