I have a '76 Duraspark II electronic ignition system out of a donor '76 F-150 running a 460, sitting in my '66 F-100. I am posting here because it is an entire transplant.
The red and white wires on the 2-wire connector are the only ones I needed to wire into the existing harness.
The red wire is connected to 12V at RUN, and the white wire is connected to 12V at start.
Situation: '86 460 block and rotating assembly with stock 460 heads, Edelbrock 750 CFM carburetor setup, '70 Cloyes double roller timing chain set to straight up on an RV camshaft, C6 transmission and a 2.75 rear end - nothing radical. In other words, it is built to resemble a pre-emissions 1970 460 in a Lincoln.
Problem: If I set the timing to normal, the truck is hard to start. The symptoms are over-advanced timing. To get it to start, I have to retard the timing. However, it runs and performs only mediocre with the timing left that way. If I re-advance the timing to where it is hard to start, the engine performs beautifully, and gets appreciably better mileage.

Question: Does the Duraspark advance the timing during cranking?

(By the way, the same '76 F-150 donated the power brakes upgrade, the front disc brakes upgrade, the power steering upgrade and the wider rear drum brakes upgrade to my '66 F-100.)

 

I think the D2 should retard the timing during "start". Mine did the same thing and when it was hot would barely turn over until I replaced the ignition module, but it failed totally, not just the retard circuit. If you replace it get good module, the cheap ones are crap.

 

Where exactly are you wiring in the white wire?

 

I tied the white wire into the back (starter side) post of the starter solenoid - into the wire that bypasses the resistor to provide a full 12V during cranking.
Keep in mind this is in a '66 F-100, which originally had points.
It was easier that way, keeping it under the hood and out from under the dash.
Good question, too. I think I will retrace the wires this weekend to make sure I got them right. It has been awhile since I did this.
The problem has been on-going, it did not happen suddenly.

 

The white wire on duraspark modules is there to retard the timing during crank for ease of starting, but some (if not all) of the cheaper aftermarket modules DO NOT do this, this is one electrical matter from which i can speak with experience, plug in a motorcraft module and then plug in a cheap knock off, you'll see the difference during start up.

 

The Coil also has to have a 12V bypass at starting. This is the purpose of the starter solenoid lugs I terminal. Orignally a brown wire, hooks into the Red/Green coil wire after the resistor on the 1976.

According to my Factory diagrams for the 1976 DSII...

Circut 32: Red/Blue stripe wire is the Start Circut, this runs off the ignition switch, goes to the starter solenoid S terminal, and goes to the DSII module for starting.

and Circut 732: White is the Run Circut, directly off the ignition switch.


HOWEVER... Be aware that the red and white wires AT the module itself can be reversed on replacement units at the connector to what it is on the truck harness.
If you are using part of the 1976's DSII wiring harness, check the connector with the Red and white wires with the module plugged in. Are the colors reversed?

On most replacement units, white wire is start, Red wire is Run. This is the reason why the colors change at the connector between the truck harness and module harness, because the truck wiring didn't change.


EDIT: Picture to follow to show the wires changing color at the plug, have to scan and take picture, could be a few hours (sight being slow right now and will not upload)

Make doubly sure you do not have these wires mixed up.

 

I run 12 degrees initial adavance on my FE, so the "retard" wire is important to me, when it doesn't work you know it, motorcraft modules never leave a doubt, the aftermarket junk is hit or miss.

 

Here is the picture of the connector...

Notice how the wires change colors through the plug, red for white, white for red...




Look at post number six for the explanation.

 

White wire on the module side goes to the "I" terminal on the starter solenoid.

I run 18 degrees initial advance on my FE engine.

Josh

 

Do you experience any starter kick back when the engine is hot running 18 degrees of initial?

 

I never have. The only thing would be if it were 100 degrees out and I was stuck idling for a while, shut the engine off to go into a store and come out 10 minutes later the starter will be slightly slower in cranking, but nothing to worry about.

I have always ran big 00 welding cable for battery cables. And at least 950 cranking amp batteries.

As for electronics I have had over the years single points, dual points, Mallory unilite with Crane hi-6 and now Duraspark.

I had a mild 390 set about 12 degree initial with the Mallory, that engine struggled more than any other, the starter in that engine is what is currently in my engine today.

Josh

 

My FE is a 390 via a '69 Fairlane, 10.5:1 compression ratio, mostly stock other than carb and headers, i can run 14 degrees of initial but it puts a strain on the starter when the motor is hot, it seems pretty happy at 12 degrees with the duraspark ignition.

 

I would tend to think with 10.5 compression and the starter is straining the cam you are running must be on the small side.

I believe that was the issue with the 390 I had. It also had 10.5 compression, but a fairly mild cam. I also think the Mallory distributor also had something to do with it as well. I hated that thing.

Now I know more about Dynamic and Static compression and it all makes sense now.

I had a 427 before my 428 with 12.5 compression, and 260 degree cam @ .050 with 20 degrees initial timing and it would start perfectly fine no matter what.

 

Was that with an MSD, Mallory or Duraspark box?

 

I initially ran the 427 with dual points and then switched to Duraspark.