1. to check a oil leak properly you should think about wind. its the most importaint thing. drips near the rear engine and trans could actually come from the front of the engine and the oil just ran backwords during driving.
heres a list of all "usual" oil leaks on a 6.0L and a short bit on how to identify them.
A. Crank Sensor- crank sensors are located on the passenger side of the engine under the head. if you look under your truck it should be right there, a two wire variable reluctance sensor. if it is leaking it will look wet and sticky. in order to fix this you have to pull the 8mm bolt on it and pop it out. DONT pull on the wires with the connector still connected. the sensor has one o ring on it that should be torn or worn away if it is leaking.
B. Cam Sensor- basically the same at the crank sensor but on the exact opposite side of the engine. (drivers side). this one is a pain in the ass if your new at it. its about five inches long when you remove it out of the hole in the block so it hits stuff on the way out. but this one is identified the same way and has two o rings instead of one.
C. CAC Tube Adaptors (Charged Air Cooler)- these are all the blue tubes going to your turbo and the air cooler and the intake manifold. there is a total of four of them. One is an elbow going to your turbo, the second one is the one that goes to your intake manifold from the tube that comes from the drivers side. third is the one between the air cooler and the drivers side CAC Tube, located down a bit from your air box. and the fourth one is on the exact opposite side from the third, follow the tube from your turbo and you will find it. the way you check these is you put a glove on and run your hand uder them and look at your hand. if there is oil on your had then its time for new CAC Tube Adaptors.
D. Rear Main seal- for the sake of conversation im not going to tell you how to replace this cause it invloves removing your tranny and i dont really wnat to go through that. but you pull the plastic cover out from your tranny where you saw oil drips and you look at the seal on the rear of the crank shaft. if it looks wet then its time to replace it. also if it has a trail of oil down to the plastic cover you removed then its time to replace it.
E. Front crank seal- again i wont tell you how to replace this cause it involves removing the rediator, fan clutch, and other things. but look at your crankshaft dampener while under your truck. if it is wet inside with oil then its time to replace your front crankshaft seal.
F. The all mighty BEDPLATE- this one is a little harder to identify. first fix all the other oil leaks or at least wash them off. then buy a oil dye addative from your ford store (to avoid warrenty coverage problems). then drive it and look for oil dye with a black light. OR if you didnt use dye try this: clean it all up so you cant see a drop of oil on your underside engine anywhere then drive it for about two days. then have a look under again. if it is a bedplate there should be an oil streak coming from where the bedplate meets the engine block. if you look at the bottom of your engine in terms of layers then you should be able to see the bedplate even if your a noobie.
G. Glow Plug Harnesses- these are easy look though your fender well or from under your truck and look at your glow plug harnesses. if they look wet then they need to be replaced.
ONE BIG THING TO KEEP IN MIND- often times crank and cam sensor leaks are thought as bed plate leaks because if a leak is coming from your sensors then the wind takes the oil right across where the bedplate is. same with front crank seal, the oil runs to the back of the engine along the bed plate. so often times you may have a crank, cam, or front seal leak and the bedplate will still be saturated with oil.
congradulations your a oil leak champion now.
any questions a would be happy to answer in this thread or a private message. also i can elaborate on how to do a front crank seal or rear main seal if any one asks.
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1966 Ford F-100 Custom Cab
Ford ASSET Automotive Student
Future 2010 valedictorian Mount Hood CC
Excellent write up Wyatt!! Again... can't rep you just now!
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^Camping at ZION NP, Utah^
Jonathan
2004 F250 PSD SB King Ranch 4x4:Build Date: 01/23/2004
Dieselsite Coolant Bypass Filter, High Idle Mod
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Harpoon Mod, Zoodad
Isspro 40 PSI Boost, Water Temp, Oil Temp and Trans Temp
any tips on how to fix the glow plug wire harness leak? it looks just like wire loom with no visible grommet. thanks
well all you have to do is pop the glow plug harness off of the glow plugs and follow the harness up to its connector and disconnect it. but when you but the new one from the dealer make sure you get the right one. one is made with a long tail 15 inches. and the other is made with a short tail. 5 inches. if its on the drivers side removing the air box might be needed to get to it easier. but if its on the passenger side you just have to fish the connector out of all the other wiring that is there. once you see it its pretty self explanitory.
__________________
1966 Ford F-100 Custom Cab
Ford ASSET Automotive Student
Future 2010 valedictorian Mount Hood CC
also they come in a harness that is a hard line instead of a soft line. just so you know. im pretty sure you can tell the difference when they hand it to you over the counter.
__________________
1966 Ford F-100 Custom Cab
Ford ASSET Automotive Student
Future 2010 valedictorian Mount Hood CC
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