I have an 87 F.150 2wd extened cab, body is flawless, frame is great, 93,000 miles, well when i got it, it overheated pretty good for the last guy, it needed head gaskets, and the rod bearings were shot, so its been sitting in my garage for 2 years, well, ive come across a parts truck for it, an 89 F.150 351 fuel injected, 55,000 original miles body is shot, mine had the carburated 351 H.O. in it, now my question is do i leave all the fuel injection stuff on it and swap in the wiring harness, or can i take the fuel injection intake off and put my edelbrock performer intake on, im swappin in the entire drivetrain, its got the C6 same 3.55 gears limited slip, now im aware of the leaf spring widths being different as ive been researching this for quite a while, i know i have to cut a hole in my floor, probablyhave to do something with the instrument cluster for the 4x4 lights but my biggest question is, the engine crossmember, the brackets that hold the inner ends of the ifs axle in place, will the 4x4 axle bolt up to mine, either way it doesnt matter, so tell me your opinions, i got time, i got the parts, i have the tools and the garage to do it in so i figure thats all i need, thanks in advance

 

thats a mess, the 4X4 front subfrme/crossmember is differant and needs to be carefully cut out and welded into your frame. Also you need the tranny/t-case, crossmembers, drivelines, shifters linkage and a whole lot skills. The motor should be an easy carb conversion for your truck though. ckeck oil pan sump location you may need to reuse yours.

 

don't listen to that guy. just finished my 88 302 efi 2wd to 351w carb 4wd and everything bolts right up. install lift kit now if you have it and all new bushings, money ahead and a must on the bushings. efi to carb is a different story. yank all smog, plug off rear of heads, possibly changing of cam and gear set and distributor to aftermarket type, or earlier model carb stuff. efi cam, gears, dist./ module won't work well with carb setup. different requirments on efi per smog/ computer relations. also plumbing for fuel is a little tricky. use factory system with aftermarket fuel pressure regulator with bypass to maintain factory setup, (pump, filter, plumbing, dual tanks.) also a little electrical rewiring for dist., carb, etc. best of luck with it, my truck is coming out sweet with a little patience and F.T.E. forums. couldn't have done it without all the info from here. thanks to all.

 

update on the conversion- everything is going great, got the new rear end in, got the front end off, i got new radius arm bushings, brackets and pivot bushings, tonight im putting the 4x4 axle in, and prepping the floor to be cut, so far i know i will have to put the distributor gear on the efi motor on the old carburated distributor as long as the gears are the same looking teeth wise, so time will tell, thanks for the support

 

ok, io got the front axle on, i put 1982 1 ton econoline front springs on it, i think its about a 4" lift, so now i have to take it all back apart when i get the money as im going to put a 6" lift on it, well im just getting the hardware to do it, blocks for the rear and drop radius and axle brackets, next i got to cut the hole in the cab, get shocks for a 6" lift, get the new gaskets for the motor, get a new front section for the driveshaft built, pac the front axle bearings and get new tires, i figure most of the nhard work is now over since i got the axles installed and know they fit

 

atta boy. no need to cut hole in floor, holes are already there. pull up carpet at drivers side and over center hump to reveal factory covers. a little hard to undo some of their glue, tough stuff. drivers side is for t/case shift lever, center hump is for manual trans if it applys. wiring is ran up drivers frame rail, 4x4, low 4x4, reverse light switch if you even care for that stuff, or if maintaining functioning efi, pcm,ecm, etc. advise to do all new poly bushing, essential for proper alignment, and wiring with trans and t/c out of vehicle alot easier to access. will post picks of both 1/2 tons i have soon. 88 150 xlt ex-cab shortbox, 351w, edelbrock intake/carb, mallory unilite dist,c6, 9"w/detoit locker, 6" procomp w/extended radius arms, block in back for now rolling on 37x12.50x15 goodyear mtr's,(good tire) load range c. also 95 150 xl reg-cab shortbox all stock w/ cruise,tilt, and cold a/c, 351w,4 spd auto,manual t/c, same lift rolling on same tire but 37x12.50x17 (great tire) load range e. last thing i recommend is getting the extended radius arm kit, brake line kit, and camber adjusters for ball joints, around $1200.00 for complete kit through 4wpw. whoever has the lowest price w/shipping. procomp is a good kit or superlift are two i would recommend for 6" lifts. proper homework was done by the two companys. if in az. i could give any spare parts needed. addicted to these trucks, probably why divorce#2 has happened. gave great HEADACHE though. take care and keep it going, your almost there.

 

You will need the correct gear material, as well as the correct number of teeth.

You will also need a distributor with weights, springs, and a vacuum advance to control your timing.

If you decide to get a new distributor, consider our custom curved Duraspark Distributor built with our new Full Length Oil Impregnated Bronze Bushing. The full length bushing improves timing stability and spark scatter. If stock appearance is not an issue, take a look at our one piece D.U.I. Distributor. Whether you choose the Duraspark or the D.U.I., we curve each on a distributor machine based on your engine combination. Please see them at:
Ford Distributors
Also, there is now an excellent installation article on the D.U.I. Distributor on the Ford-Trucks.com site at:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...d_351W_V8.html