Good day,

I am new to the forum here and new to the ownership of classic vehicles. I recently purchased a 1952 Ford F3 1 ton "stake" truck. The truck appears to be somewhat "unique". The truck has a flatbed with stake walls all around and there is a boom to raise the deck up and down. The truck is in good shape and was owned by an elderly man since new. The truck was always stored in his barn and used only during harvest to bring in the sqaure bales from the fields to the loft in his barn, until 2005 when health related issues prevented him from particpating in the harvest. Hence there is only 13,000 original Km's on the truck. The truck runs like a top with no real issues except that the starter appears to be loose and the carb leaks like crazy. I have rectified those problems. However, unfortunately I am not very familliar with these old flatheads and was wondering if anyone might be able to tell me what type of oil (I keep being told to use heavy duty oil, but, I am unsure what that equates to in todays oil classifications). Which spark plugs etc, that I should be using in this truck. It does have the 239 ci V8 flathead under the hood with a standard tranny. Further, as it has been sitting for 4 years is there anything that I should consider replacing or keeping an eye on in order to prevent damaging the truck. From what I have been told by others is that the truck does appear to be all complete and original up to and including the tires. Any hellp would be greatly appreciated.

 

I've used a diesel oil like the Chevron Deltron (??). However, there'll be other suggestion forthcoming.

Your local Napa auto parts store (or similar) should have everything you need for a tune-up, including spark plugs, condenser, points, spark plug wires, distributor, etc.

If the the truck has been sitting for four years, I'd get the tank and fuel lines cleaned out. Check the fuel pump and make sure to put a few filters between the fuel tank and the carb. I'd put a filter with a visible housing in the engine compartment.

You might also want to check out the brake system for any leaks.

 

First, welcome to the group. Glad to have you.

If you have the original 17" rims and tires, you'll want to replace them. The rims are the dangerous style that are known as Firestone RH-5°, also called "widow makers". Here's a cross section pic of one.



Service facilities won't work on these anymore for liability reasons. Because your truck is a 1952, though, you should have no trouble replacing the wheels with modern 16" tubeless rims that have the same 8 lug x 6.5" bolt circle. If you are concerned with retaining use of your stock hub caps you could also try to locate some of the stock 16" rims that came on the F-2 models of that era. They will accept your hub caps with no trouble. Stu

 

Thanks for the help. I was planning to get rid of the tires any ways. I guess the rims are going to the trash now as well. Lol. With regards to the oil what viscosity is the Cevron Deltron?? I have never seen that brand where I am. Heard of it, but never seen it. I forgot to mention that I was in Canada so it that is probably why. I use a synthetic 15W40 in my dodge 2500 with the cummins. Would this work? It would be rather convienent. LOL.

 

Is it worth while to change the electrical system to a 12 volt system? The 6 volt system is allright. Just cranks slow.

 

15W40 is one I've heard being used. It should be fine. The brakes are something I'd be concerned with as well. fluid will condensate over time and rust the brake lines from the inside out. One good step on the brake pedal might show you where the weak spots will be. 12 volt is beneficial if you want to run wipers and headlights at the same time. My $.02 And welcome to FTE, eh!

 

I was planning to redo the braking system as well. Any ideas on where the best place to get braking system componenets? My plan would be to redo from frame up and leave as much as original as possible. I really like the F3 simply becase it is not an F1. LOL. There are lots of F1's out there but I have not seen any other F3's around in my area.

 

Is it better to replace the entire electrical system and gauges or use the in line voltage reducers before each accessory?

 

Welcome to the forum!

Spark plugs -- use Autolite 216's set at .025"

Oil -- once the engine is broken in, any modern oil will be fine. 10w30 is fine as long as oil pressure is OK, a minimum of 20 at warm idle, 40 - 50 at speed. Original spec was straight 30 in warm weather.

I did the 12v conversion and used a stock '60's Ford "constant voltage regulator" (CVR) to power the gauges. Ford used 6v gauges for years on 12v with these, they cut the voltage down to ~6v. The CVR's cost about $20 new or you can get them at the boneyard. The heater fan motor can be replaced with a 12v one for about $25. Stick with vacuum wipers unless you want to custom-make something electric or pay $$$$.

 

Where would CVR be placed?

 

I forgot to ask which 60's model/year of vehicle is the best to order the part from?

 

If it's not broken, don't fix it! If your 6V system is working fine and you don't plan to add accessories that take 12 volts then there is no reason to convert at this point.

Most folks do the conversion because their wiring is bad - for whatever reason, age, prior owner, etc, or because they want to add radios, electric wipers, etc. Also, the generators on the 6V system will not produce enough amps at low (below 1200) rpm and may discharge your battery if you are running accessories. Remember that a 6 volt system requires twice the amperage per watt required, than a 12 volt system.

You live in Canada so there is a good chance that you will be running some of the time with heater, wipers (if you have electric wipers) and lights on. A 12 volt system with an alternator instead of a generator would certainly be stronger and more reliable than what you have.

If you decided to convert, then in the long run the only thing you would need to reduce voltage for would be the heater motor (and electric wiper motor if installed) - which you would do using a pair of Vol-ta-drops, and the gauges which you would use three of the little voltage reducers that attach to the gauges. I'f heard the single reducer for the gauges available from Mid-fifties get pretty hot. I use the little ones and the work perfectly.

There would of course be some changes to your ignition, and the charging system would have to be replaced. I'd definately go with a one wire alternator if you do this. A lot of guys say you can stick with the 6V starting system, but there are drawbacks, and I would replave it as well.

Anyway, tons of threads on 12 volt conversion if you use the "search" function on the upper right side of the forum list page.

Oil? 15W40/10W30 as Havi/Ross recommended or even a 10W40.

 

Thanks for the help. I want to leave it as original as possible. I will only be using it for the odd pleasure cruise or picking up some square bales on my farm. Nothing to major by any means. I want to wiegh the pros and cons. Thanks again!!

 

$20 new ??

Ross, I believe it's been a few years since you last bought a new ICVR = Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator.

B9MZ10804C .. ICVR (Motorcraft GR508) / MSRP: $85.40

Application: 1957/66 F100/1100 / 1959/65 Passenger Cars / 1966/77 Bronco.
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Maybe you used this one instead: C6DZ10804A .. ICVR (Motorcraft GR510) MSRP: $118.00

Application: 1967/69 F100/750 / 1966/68 Passenger Cars.
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Or this one: C9AZ10804A .. ICVR (Motorcraft GR512) See the MSRP above, same o same-o.

Application: 1970: F100/750 & Passenger Cars.
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ALL the above ^ ^ are obsolete, prolly because no one wanted to pay those outrageous prices, but there's one more that isn't.

D1AZ10804A .. ICVR (Motorcraft GR513)

MSRP: $78.36 // FTEpartsguy.com price: $42.31.

Application: 1971/79 F100/750 / 1978/79 Bronco / 1971/79 Passenger Cars.

As expensive as these are, I wouldn't buy a used one.

When these little darlins' go bad, it causes the fuel and temp gauges to do the HULA.

The gauges needles move back and forth on their own, as you're motorin' on down the road.