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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2009, 10:36 PM
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Hey All,
Well I made a deal with my mechanic to put the compressor on myself since he said I can do it and I did. (It was more like him telling me to do it because hes tired of doing all the tedious **** I give him, haha) And on a side note that compressor was a bitch to get out and install carefully; there is no room at all and I had to loosen my sway bar and slowly guide the compressor watching out for the HIGH side lines and my trans lines running to my cooler.

Once I got the old one off I put the new one on leaving the oil cap on the compressor and the lines disconnected so that my mechanic can flush/clean/vacuum out the system and recharge that bad boy up.

Tomorrow I am going to take the van to him and I'll let u all know how it went.

Boy I'm gonna be pretty thrilled if it all works, but also pissed because all that was wrong was the clutch somehow flew off 10 years ago.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2009, 02:55 PM
DCRB DCRB is offline
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well i have some good news... dunno how well this will effect my pocket book... BUT my buddy/ sisters b/f is in the asset program over at mount hoodcc... and he said he'd talk to his teacher about possibly helping me getting my ac system all up and running again.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2009, 10:16 PM
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Well, I got my van back yesterday and so far i got freezing cold A/C!!!!!!

Total cost's:
- New A/C Compressor from RockAuto $175.00
-System flush, Vacuum for 30 min, and charged $125.00

TOTAL: $300.00

A bit much for an old van but worth it on those 90+ degree days!!!
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2009, 02:16 AM
bozzzz94 bozzzz94 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarCrazy1001 View Post
Hey All,
Well I made a deal with my mechanic to put the compressor on myself since he said I can do it and I did. (It was more like him telling me to do it because hes tired of doing all the tedious **** I give him, haha) And on a side note that compressor was a bitch to get out and install carefully; there is no room at all and I had to loosen my sway bar and slowly guide the compressor watching out for the HIGH side lines and my trans lines running to my cooler.

Once I got the old one off I put the new one on leaving the oil cap on the compressor and the lines disconnected so that my mechanic can flush/clean/vacuum out the system and recharge that bad boy up.

Tomorrow I am going to take the van to him and I'll let u all know how it went.

Boy I'm gonna be pretty thrilled if it all works, but also pissed because all that was wrong was the clutch somehow flew off 10 years ago.
CC1001--Did you or the mechanic put about 2 oz of PAG oil into the suction side before hooking the lines up? I installed my wifes comp. on her Windstar about this time last year and it only lived 1 month. Just purging/vacuuming out the system won't do it. It must be treated with oil first and then the spun slowly by hand at least 10 to 12 revolutions.--Boz
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2009, 03:10 AM
lsrx101 lsrx101 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarCrazy1001 View Post
Well, I got my van back yesterday and so far i got freezing cold A/C!!!!!!

Total cost's:
- New A/C Compressor from RockAuto $175.00
-System flush, Vacuum for 30 min, and charged $125.00

TOTAL: $300.00

A bit much for an old van but worth it on those 90+ degree days!!!
Good Job!
If that is the vehicle that gets you to work every day and back home, reliably and safely, is it too much?
If it's the vehicle that transports your family around day to day, it's not too much, Is it?.
Why would it be "a bit much for an old van"?
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2009, 03:24 AM
lsrx101 lsrx101 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bozzzz94 View Post
CC1001--Did you or the mechanic put about 2 oz of PAG oil into the suction side before hooking the lines up? I installed my wifes comp. on her Windstar about this time last year and it only lived 1 month. Just purging/vacuuming out the system won't do it. It must be treated with oil first and then the spun slowly by hand at least 10 to 12 revolutions.--Boz
What happened to your wife's original compressor when it failed?
Most replacement comps come with at least "some" oil in them. That 2 oz is not a matter of life and death in a month even if the new compressor was totally empty when you put it on.
I'm thinking your "new" compressor likely failed because of old compressor droppings in the condenser or orifice tube screen. Did you flush the system before you installed the new compressor? New orifice? New accumulator?
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2009, 10:14 AM
cookkd cookkd is offline
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Originally Posted by lsrx101 View Post
What happened to your wife's original compressor when it failed?
Most replacement comps come with at least "some" oil in them. That 2 oz is not a matter of life and death in a month even if the new compressor was totally empty when you put it on.
I'm thinking your "new" compressor likely failed because of old compressor droppings in the condenser or orifice tube screen. Did you flush the system before you installed the new compressor? New orifice? New accumulator?
I have bought three compressors for my two 'Stars. Each had a tag on them saying that it was pre-loaded with oil. It also indicated that additional oil had to be added if the system had rear A/C.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2009, 11:22 AM
lsrx101 lsrx101 is offline
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I have bought three compressors for my two 'Stars. Each had a tag on them saying that it was pre-loaded with oil. It also indicated that additional oil had to be added if the system had rear A/C.
And you also added the additional oil all 3 times?!?! Those labels assume the system has been flushed dry.

2 trucks-3 compressors containing 8 ounces of oil. At least one of them is now very badly overfilled with oil, the other has about 4-8 ounces too much.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2009, 11:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bozzzz94 View Post
CC1001--Did you or the mechanic put about 2 oz of PAG oil into the suction side before hooking the lines up? I installed my wifes comp. on her Windstar about this time last year and it only lived 1 month. Just purging/vacuuming out the system won't do it. It must be treated with oil first and then the spun slowly by hand at least 10 to 12 revolutions.--Boz
The Compressor came sealed with an oil called 'ICE32' and I did spin it about 15 times by hand to get it all circulated.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 07-03-2009, 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by CarCrazy1001 View Post
The Compressor came sealed with an oil called 'ICE32' and I did spin it about 15 times by hand to get it all circulated.
Okay-here it is. ICE32=it is only a "PICKLED OIL" that is used to preserve the compressor from the manufacturer. Places like Korea are where they are being made now. Compressors for the most part sit in warehouse for sometimes up to 1 year before you get it. Imagine if you will the corrosion settling into them and then all of a sudden you "CRANK" it up! Wouldn't be good RIGHT!? This "ICE" oil is just a wetted lubricant that is a preservative "ONLY!
I made the mistake last summer by thinking this was like mineral or PAG oil. I installed the compressor into my wifes van. Everything went fine. The place I took it to did everything correctly. Guess what? My compressor shelled out after 1 month and 4 days.--"OUCH!" What did I learn? I found out that with my replacement compressor I was given has directions from the manufacturer to install a measured amount of PAG oil into the suction side. Suction side? As your turning the clutch hold your finger closely to one of the holes. The one that trys to suck your finger in is the one you poor the oil into. Once you pour in the oil-you turn the clutch about 10 or so turns to get it into the compressor. The compressor is just like a small car engine. It has a cylinder wall with a piston going up and down in it. You wouldn't run your engine without oil would you? Same applies here. If you run a new engine and it incurrs damage to the travel area of the piston it will most indefinetly fail prematurely. The piston rings will fail as well. Auto Zone and Advnced Auto to name a few actually go over the directions with you. They tell you to also purchase a new dryer bottle along with a new orifice tube filter. If you can't prove that you had purchases either of the two when and if your compressor fails-YOU'RE OUT OF LUCK! Remember from my pain-not only keep your copy-make a copy as well with a copier machine. You might be thinking that the info will be kept in the computer at the store.--You're partly right-one small problem-warrantied items are in the system-NOT THE $1.99 ORIFICE TUBE FILTER. Dryer bottles normally have about 1 year warranty. Compressors normally 2 year. If your comp. fails and you get it replaced-don't freak out-but-you will only have left the reainder of the original warranty. Alot of info. right? Well, just trying to share my past pain so it doesn't become yours.--V/R Boz
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 07-03-2009, 01:24 AM
xlt4wd90 xlt4wd90 is offline
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To you have to purge this ICE32 oil first before filling it with the new oil?
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 07-03-2009, 03:53 AM
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ICE32 a/c lube and system enhancing lubricant chemical with oil

http://www.ice32.com/lub_effects.htm

http://www.ice32.com/

ICE32, the all-season climate control system lubricant, is proven to meet and exceed SAE J2670 Standard. The tests were conducted by an independent testing organization in accordance with SAE J2670, Stability and Compatibility Criteria for Additives and Flushing Materials Intended for Use in Vehicle Air-Conditioning System Using R-134a. The results of the two month test were released January 6, 2006.
http://www.ice32.com/Injector/injector.html

leave the ICE32 in the compressor and deduct the amount (2 ounces) from lube added to system. total spec'd lube capacity for Aero= 7 ozs for single front system, 10 ozs for dual front/aux systems

many of the r134a auto parts store cans now contain ICE32 or similar product. improves the efficiency and life of a r134a system, especially a converted FX-12 comp dual front/rear system with the old FX12 still in use. don't get the stuff that is all purpose with UV leak dye and leak sealant. the leak sealant only causes problems and headaches. best to find the leak and put in new part, usually seal O ring.

use ester oil, holds up under the heat and extremes of an Aero system better than PAG. does not absorb moisture. don't have to worry about correct viscosity. non toxic and compatible with residual PAG in system
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2009, 11:55 AM
Afireinside2285 Afireinside2285 is offline
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I actually replaced most of my system back in april.I have a post on here about it.I have a 92 3.0 front air only system and I do have part #s if needed.I did r-134a and it's working great.The habor freight unit did the trick for me as well 30gal comp.
I replaced everything but the evaporator & fan assembly.
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Old 07-04-2009, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96_4wdr View Post
ICE32 a/c lube and system enhancing lubricant chemical with oil

http://www.ice32.com/lub_effects.htm

http://www.ice32.com/

ICE32, the all-season climate control system lubricant, is proven to meet and exceed SAE J2670 Standard. The tests were conducted by an independent testing organization in accordance with SAE J2670, Stability and Compatibility Criteria for Additives and Flushing Materials Intended for Use in Vehicle Air-Conditioning System Using R-134a. The results of the two month test were released January 6, 2006.
http://www.ice32.com/Injector/injector.html

leave the ICE32 in the compressor and deduct the amount (2 ounces) from lube added to system. total spec'd lube capacity for Aero= 7 ozs for single front system, 10 ozs for dual front/aux systems

many of the r134a auto parts store cans now contain ICE32 or similar product. improves the efficiency and life of a r134a system, especially a converted FX-12 comp dual front/rear system with the old FX12 still in use. don't get the stuff that is all purpose with UV leak dye and leak sealant. the leak sealant only causes problems and headaches. best to find the leak and put in new part, usually seal O ring.

use ester oil, holds up under the heat and extremes of an Aero system better than PAG. does not absorb moisture. don't have to worry about correct viscosity. non toxic and compatible with residual PAG in system
Now, remove all of the marketing hype and tell me what this crap actually does except lighten your wallet.
The correct answer is... Nothing.

It's a lubricity modifier that "might" make the compressor work with a bit less friction. This is a non-issue in a properly repaired AC system. It can do absolutely nothing to make the AC "work better", as the manufacturer wants you to believe. It also can't fix the flawed design of the FX-15 compressor.
In short...snake oil.
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Old 07-04-2009, 01:32 PM
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congrats Afire on successful conversion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Afireinside2285 View Post
I actually replaced most of my system back in april.I have a post on here about it.I have a 92 3.0 front air only system and I do have part #s if needed.I did r-134a and it's working great.The habor freight unit did the trick for me as well 30gal comp.
I replaced everything but the evaporator & fan assembly.
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