OK I have always had 7.3s but now Im going to grab a 6.0, question is, what are these notorious for doing, motor wise? I know what too look for on the body and suspension just dont know shizzle about the motor. Thanks !@

 

what i usually do when getting diesels is ask to start it up cold and just listen to it idle. should be pretty smooth (and 6.0s idle kinda hickup/click every 30secs to a min so that's normal IMO)
next pop the hood and look at the degas bottle see if you see and coolant that puked out.
finally just drive it and really get on it, see if you feel any slip in the trans when shift though all the gears, and also see how the turbo sounds (you don't want a sticky turbo w/ under or overboost contions)

then if you really want to get it get an OASIS report (report card of all work done by FORD)

 

Dude, stay as far away from this truck as you can!

I've got an '05 that has been through 3 turbos, 8 egr valve replacements, 4 injectors and other things like leaky gaskets different types of modules or valves that I don't remember the names of.

I'm looking at dumping this truck as the warranty is up in July. I'm real up in the air as to what to get and am looking at other options. For that reason I talked to a guy that is now working for an independent diesel repair shop, but who was a master tech or whatever they're called for Ford for almost 30 years. Asked him about all the stuff you read about on here as far as egr deletes, and ccv re-routes. His advice was to not do anything and just get rid of the damn thing. I think that says alot.

 

I wouldnt get rid of the truck. Sounds to me like the dealer is just throwing parts at it. I would find another dealer and get it fixed right.

As far as the OP, the first thing I would do is get an Oasis and make sure its clean. its an 03, remember this was the first year for the 6.0 and some were more problematic than others. If the Oasis looks good then do what AdamBomb told ya...sorry Adam I just think if the Oasis is a mess than theres no point in getting your hopes up for buying the truck.

The 6.0 is way more complicated than the 7.3's and with some mods can be just as dependable. They are a peasure to drive, they do require more maintence. I have a customer with a 7.3, and he's in love with my 6.0...I am not ready to sell it yet or he would have it. My truck runs circles around his.

Good Luck and dont be scared about the 6.0, just ask us questions and we will help you along the way.

Sarge

 

Sounds like an uneducated thing to say to me. You have other problems leading to what is wrong with your truck, 8 egr valves is about the most retarded thing i've ever heard

 

Its been to 3 different dealers and a non Ford diesel shop. I don't know what else to do. I'm not trying to be sarcastic. Seriously, what can be done to fix it right?

 

I could get pretty nasty with you about this post. I won't, I will say though, that you sound pretty retarded by basically calling me a liar. I'm not a diesel mechanic so I don't know whats wrong with the truck. It breaks down, it goes to the shop, they "fix" it and I get the paper telling me what they did. What don't you understand about that smart guy?

 

Easy there. 8 egr valves does sound like the dealer is throwing them at it whenever they find a problem. Either way I've got an 03 with 70k and Oasis is completely clean. Just did balljoints on it, and Trans temp. sensor went bad. No puking, no egr problems, just basic maintenance(knock on wood). Do your research and take care of it, it will take care of you.

 

I do take care of it. Oil changes every 4k, fuel filters every 8k, fuel conditioner(opti-lube) every tank. I push it hard on the highway to "clean it out". What else can be done?You want to talk egr deletes and ege cooler by pass. O.k. Problem is I'm not sure I want to dump the cash into it only to find out it didn't help with the reliability and back to square one. I'd love to keep the truck but its got to be reliable. I do alot of hunting and am in very remote place many times every year. Its only a matter of time before this thing breaks down and leaves me in a place a wrecker isn't willing to try and get into.As far as taking it easy, if you don't agree fine, telling me I'm retarded, not fine.

 

Go ahead and get nasty, I was talking about this Ford tech with 30 years experience, what did he work on in those 30 years? 8 egr valves is retarded, no truck should be eating them like that, and obviously the problem lies some where else and nobody wants to find the cause.

 

The truck sounds like a national record holder with 8 egr valves.

 

Adambomb gave you a good start. If you want to really want to be thorough:

First one, I will repeat what he said (it is important!): Get an OASIS report (post your VIN in the Super Dyty Section of FTE)

Second one, again repeat (it is important): Look for signs of coolant degas bottle overflow (dry white residue on and around the degas bottle or no level in degas bottle). I have pics of what to look for in my gallery.

Lots of idling can cause EGR problems. I look at the hours on the engine (if it has this monitored) and divide the miles by the hours (is it below 30? If so, may have had lots of idling).

Even without much extended idling EGR valves can plug quickly - maybe negotiate for a new EGR valve. In fact, I would negotiate for them to pull the EGR valve to inspect it after a good test run (have them show it to you when it is out and then you need to look into the intake). Check for wetness (w/ rear end jacked up) and for excess soot. Wetness indicates an EGR cooler leak. If the valve is gunked up, have them replace the valve. If the intake is real bad, you may push them to clean it as well.

Look underneath for oil leaks - some trucks have had a lot of them.

If you buy from a dealership, I would negotiate for them to install the latest flash of all 3 processors (PCM, FICM, ECM).

If applicable - Negotiating for an extended warranty is always a good thing as well.

Try to find out about the routine maintenance:
· Filter change intervals on time? What kind of oil (CI 4 + or CJ 4 - one of these is required)?
· OEM filters? Look at them and see what kind they are. Aftermarket filters can cause MAJOR problems.
· Find proof of Transmission being flushed/changed - it is recommended every 30,000 miles.
· Any exhaust problems visible (i.e. lots of white or blue smoke)? White smoke may mean an EGR cooler leak.

Check for any FLUID leaks (as stated previously - LOOK SPECIFICALLY FOR OIL LEAKS - 6.0L are prone to many of these from many possible places!!).

CEL (Check Engine Light) on? Consider getting a code reader and check for DTC's. You can have active DTC’s without a CEL.

The Electronic Shift on the Fly ESOF sometimes fails due to vacuum leaks. Be sure to check this out (several times in and out of 4WD and/or take front wheels off to inspect).

Check for excessive wheel bearing wear (looseness), sway bar (end link looseness), or ball joint looseness. Ball joints and sway bar end links tend to go out in the 70k-90k range. Jack one side up at a time and see if each wheel moves top to bottom only, if so, it is the ball joints. If it moves in all directions then probably wheel bearings.

Check the coolant - it should have the Motorcraft Gold Coolant - anything else and there may be problems. Look in the "degas" bottle and inspect the fluid - it should be gold colored and there should be NO OIL visible (oil emulsified in water can show up as brown sludge). As previously stated, the degas bottle should not have white residue around the sides of it (possible overheating issues).

Any evidence of a tuner (aftermarket air filter, gauges, etc)? Tuners may or may not be bad. Some tuners are MURDER on the transmission. Some dealerships will cause you a lot of problems w/ them - even if you bought it that way used.

Aftermarket air systems could be a problem. Many of them (like K&N) do not filter as well and could cause issues. Up to 500 hp, the stock air system is best!

Try to find out if the original owner ever ran it empty on fuel or have plugged filters (fuel pressure below 45 psig can damage injectors)?

Then the common stuff I'm sure you know:
· Look at and smell the fluids. Make sure fluids not burnt, not too thick or dirty.
· Check the tires - abnormal wear?
· How do the brakes look? Any pads need replacement? Are the rear brakes excessively worn?
· All electronics working? Especially the AC (repair can be expensive)?
· Dents? Air bag been replaced, etc.
· See if he has any repair or maintenance records.
· Take off the price for windshield dings, paint chipped, torn upholstery, etc.
· Does the truck look too clean? Does it look like the oil was just changed? May be hiding something.
· Any extras - tool boxes, bumpers, etc.?
· Drive it - does it hesitate, stutter, or surge? Does it blow white or black smoke? When driving, brake fairly hard - note any pulls, pops, clunks, rattles, etc. How does it accelerate? You should romp on it pretty good. Drive in reverse and then back and forth - listen for clunks.

Add or subtract value based on condition, high miles, and presence of extras.
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Do you idle the truck a lot, does it sit a lot inbetween hunting trips. I dont want to Hijack this thread from the OP, so maybe start a new thread and coimpletly describe the symptoms you are having with it so we can help. Possibly post the Oasis report on the truck so we can see it and see what the techs did.

Again start it in another thread..to the OP I appologize for hijacking.

Sarge

 

thanks bismic for filling in some of your famous 6.0 advice
also i tried to give you some rep points but i have to spread them around...

i also agree with Sarge

and also i noticed 2 things; 1 i always thought that if the same part was replaced over 4 or 5 times it was a LEMON and you get a buy back option.
and 2 the OP hasn't responded...yet

 

What bismic and Adambomb said +1. Definitely avoid a tuned 6.0 and/or one with an aftermarket intake.

BTW, how many 7.3's did you own?!