Now the FPR, was exactly does that do? Vapors or something? And should there be a vac line from that to somewhere? I now it went to the canister on the wheel well originally.....

And the EVR, can that be removed or no? I see it says TAD and TAB solenoids are the only ones that should stay, but I'm simple

Thanks!!

 

FPR= Fuel pressure regulator..that is a vacume operated device(valve) to raise or lower fuel pressure to the injector rail (fuel inectors) ,..also routes un-used pressure(fuel) back to fuel tank (via return line) if un-needed. Hope that helps.

 

So that should probably be hooked back into the canister? I see it had a return line back to the tank.

Also, what about the solenoid by the EGR...can that little harness just be unplugged?

Thanks again!

 

So If I plug the back on the engine can I just plug the house that would come out of the line? and cancel that section off? Or how is that diaphragm that is connected to the line going from left to right on the back of the engine called?

 

did you remove the line for the egr from the front of your passenger side exhaust manifold? what did you us to plug it with?

-im searching other threads aswell

 

I believe that a 3/4 inch NPT plug will do the job. I'd use steel or brass, not galvanized & coat it in anti-seize incase you find you need to remove it.

 

i tried the hardware store, count find anything that fit. wound up putting a quarter under the compression fitting from the egr line. seems to plug it up well, we'll see about later on but this will work till it fails.

but dang getting the bolts off the back of the heads was a major PITA!! and i still cant get the plug bolts in. all i could find where 5/8 1.5" long so i had to cut half an inch off. they wont thread so im hoping if i just keep working on the thread face of the bolt with a file ill get them it thread in

and dang these old colored vacuum lines! they break just by looking at them! guess ill have to replumb all those with new line

 

The threads in the head will have a ton of carbon buildup on them that makes it a chore to get the bolts to thread in. I used a battery brush to clean the holes/threads out before running the bolts in, and that worked like a charm.

-Rod

 

finally got them in


thats what i figured the problem was... should've used a battery brush though, the brush i used was not up to the task.

 

Bump for this amazing information. I'm in the process of installing Headman Headers right now, and came across that seized tube stuck near the catalytic converter, and started swearing as I didn't realize these trucks had the same 'good for nothing' emissions junk. (I moved to a Province in Canada that doesn't have emissions because let's be real, it doesn't protect the environment, it just drives up the costs of cars and hopes you go back to the dealership for repair)

I'm sawzall'n everything out of the truck right now, but it looks like this operation is similar to the Nissan 240sx I also did this to. Block it off, then fool the computer (in my case with the Nissan 240sx I ran a stand alone Engine managment from AEM)

I'll hopefully have a video on what I end up doing with my 93 F250, 302.

 

Hi am John I am have a 1995 f 150 2WD trying to fine part # E7TE 9H465-BA air control solenoid vacuum can you help thank you.

 

So the bolt that fits those holes to plug them has a 5/8” shank? Does that go for an ‘88 351w?

 

It's in the back of the heads, and should be independent of what block you install them on.

And regardless of what people might claim, let's face it, AIR DOES help reduce emissions, if you have the rest of the equipment.

I had to install these bolts onto a set of Edelbrock heads I installed onto my 1969 Mustang, which does not have the rest of the emission control system. And boy, does that engine stink, so much so that I don't like to drive it, regardless of how I tune it. If I could afford it, I would get a whole set of cats, AIR pump, and the plumbing to hook it all together so it would stop being a gross polluter.