7.3 diesel
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#3
Nothing terribly major, but 300,000 is a lot, even for a 7.3. See if you can get the owner to pull the intake boot off the turbo, and check the turbo for any end play (up, down, left, right, in out). Also pull the oil fill cap off while its running to verify that there is not too much blow by.
But since it is a 2000 with 300k, that indicates a lot of highway miles, which are not to bad on an engine. It might still have tons of life left.
Edit: One thing, if its an automatic, make sure its not slipping during part throttle or wide open. The automatics are known to fail on these
But since it is a 2000 with 300k, that indicates a lot of highway miles, which are not to bad on an engine. It might still have tons of life left.
Edit: One thing, if its an automatic, make sure its not slipping during part throttle or wide open. The automatics are known to fail on these
#4
Guys, it looks like he is from Canada, and he says 300,000k (as in kilometers), which is not really very high mileage for a 7.3.
Just check for crankcase blow-by (remove oil filler cap and see how much puffs out when it is running), transmission wear (does it shift properly, smell for burnt fluid, check for slippage, drop pan and check for metal or clutch lining residue), general wear and tear. Does it make any noises (rattles squeaks, clunks, or whines), does it steer well and track straight on a rough road and under hard braking? Does it start right up from dead cold without plugging in a block heater?
Hope this helps.
Just check for crankcase blow-by (remove oil filler cap and see how much puffs out when it is running), transmission wear (does it shift properly, smell for burnt fluid, check for slippage, drop pan and check for metal or clutch lining residue), general wear and tear. Does it make any noises (rattles squeaks, clunks, or whines), does it steer well and track straight on a rough road and under hard braking? Does it start right up from dead cold without plugging in a block heater?
Hope this helps.
#5
Good catch on the KM thing Jock.
Here's a link to the new truck buyer info for the 7.3. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...questions.html
Welcome to FTE.
Here's a link to the new truck buyer info for the 7.3. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...questions.html
Welcome to FTE.
#7
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The second issue is the K&N lets too large of particles through the filter system when placed in front of a turbo. They work great on the gas engines, but in front of that fast spinning turbo wheel under high boost pressures, the result looks like someone hit your turbo wheel with a mini sand blaster and you end up with a dusted turbo. If it's ignored too long, you end up with a dusted engine. Unfortunately, we've had more than one member here replace their motor due to a dusted engine behind a K&N filter.
If you've had good luck with yours, that's great. It would at least be a good idea to inspect the inside of the tube going back to the turbo. If you can wipe your finger on the inside of the tube and leave a clean mark, then it's time to pull the tube off and inspect the wheel in the turbo for any signs of dusting. If the tube is clean, and the turbo wheel still has clean sharp edges, then keep up your maintenance habits with the K&N since you're having luck with it.
I know you feel strongly in your beliefs, but what will it hurt to check?
#12
i have a 99" 7.3 scab long box 4X4 with 300,000mi on it and i had the trans rebulit at about 150,000mi and it runs like a champ...motor is still strong and i pull lots of thuing around my 4000 acre farm so ya i use it like a truck ...if its got a 7.3 the body will fall off because of rust before the motor quits
#13
I have 200000 on my 97 and it still pulls strong. If the body is good, go for it. Turbo charger is $1500 to replace, put K&N filter on it and get rid of the old tubing and keep the box under it, keep the scoop and put some window screen over it to filter out big bugs.
#15
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Vampiro
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01-30-2003 04:57 PM