1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

1952 F2, now that it's running...

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Old 02-14-2009, 09:01 PM
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1952 F2, now that it's running...

I took the truck out for a spin today, although it was just around the block.

It's been a long time since I've driven a vehicle like that. Turning the truck wasn't too bad, but someone needs to help better explain double clutching to me. I would start in 2nd (1st = like 5 mph), push the clutch in take the shifter to neutral. Then I'd let the clutch off (to synchronize it), then I'd push it back in and then try and shift into third, but GRRRIIIINNNNDDDD. So, stopped and I tried again. GRRRIIINNNDDD. I felt terrible about this poor transmission. So, in all, I only managed one successful 2nd to 3rd shift. I was expecting it to grind, so I would only lightly test 3rd gear to prevent damage.

So then, I thought, maybe I am doing this wrong? But when I looked online, it seems like I have the process down right. I can't figure out why it wont shift. Am I supposed to synchronize the RPMs by ear as well? Am I supposed to shift quickly? Are there any good articles on driving these things?

Then when I was driving it, it seemed like it was really really bumpy. Not up and down wise, but kind like a pulsating bump. I am wondering if these trucks are normally very bumpy, of if my wheels are seriously bent or something.

Also, the transmission is very very loud, I so I wonder if that's normal. Anyway, that's what I am wondering, it's my first 50's vehicle, so I am still relatively new to this game.

Thanks for all your guys help when getting it to run.
 
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Old 02-14-2009, 09:06 PM
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Sounds like the clutch is not functiioning correctly. When my 89 f150 gets low on fluld 5th gear and reverse don,t ingage properly.
 
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Old 02-14-2009, 09:10 PM
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So maybe I need to check my clutch fluid level? Or do you mean the transmission fluid level? because I haven't checked either, but the clutch seems to be working just fine.
 
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Old 02-14-2009, 09:12 PM
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First, did you check the gear lube level? If it's low you're going to grind gears. Also, is the clutch adjusted correctly? If the clutch is out of adjustment or worn you won't be able to disengage the tranny enough to shift.

If all of the above is OK it could just be pratice that you need. My F-2 has the heavy four speed and I've gotten to the point I can shift without using the clutch but I usually always use the clutch. I just have to listen for the shift points. I don't speed shift, just a normal shift. I have a page on my web site that might help:

Shifting a Non-sycro Four Speed
 
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Old 02-15-2009, 02:04 AM
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I had to chuckle a little at your post!

Welcome to the world of a vehicle you really have to "operate."

First, if the truck hasn't been driven in awhile, don't just check the transmission fluid, change it. It's easy! There's a plug/bolt on the bottom, take it out and let the oil drain out. Then on the passenger side toward the rear of the square case there is another plug/bolt about half way up the transmission. You fill the transmission from there (be sure you put the bottom one back in first). Fill it with SAE 90 gear oil until it just starts to run out the hole.

Also, if you havent already, change the motor oil and filter, and engine coolant before you drive it again. Be sure to top off the brake fluid. And you might want to check the read end oil as well - same way as the tranny - plug about half way up - pull it, stick your finger in and check for oil. If it's low use more of that 90 weight. Also the steering box, there is a plug on top - 90 weight oil again!

Be sure to grease/lube all the zercs in the front end and springs before you drive it again too. That will probably help loosen it up a dash.

Then take it around the block just turning the wheel, hitting the brakes and shifting just to "excercize" the grease and new oil into everything

There is no oil in the clutch like there is in a motorcycle. But the pedal throw can be adjusted. Remember this old girl is going to be a little stiff. But trust me - it's a TRUCK, a REAL TRUCK, and the phrase "it DRIVES LIKE A TRUCK" was born with these!

You will get the shifting thing down too. It's a matter of feel and sound. You have to shift slow and patient with a slight back pull on the stick with two fingers to second, and a gentle push into third - gently, you'll feel it ! It will pop into gear.

Look at the bright side - it drove you back all the way home. For a first drive, that's pretty good.
 
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Old 02-15-2009, 08:17 AM
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1=2, in spite of the grinding was there a big smile over being able to drive that thing around the block? Like Julie noted check all those things, then have fun. There is nothing like that first time you get to drive your truck after finally getting the thing to fire up.

I remember terrorizing the neighborhood with my '54 after finally getting the motor mounted (460) because I just had to drive it a little. At that point it had no exhaust system other than the open exhaust manifolds and not hood. I couldn't hear for a week.
 
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Old 02-15-2009, 09:41 AM
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husker,

It may have been slow, bumpy, rickety (I was expecting all of that), and somewhat embarrassing, but it sure was awesome. Knowing that I brought this poor beast back to life gave me a huge burst of self satisfaction. After sitting for about 6-10 years, it was nice to know that I gave it a second chance. I actually enjoyed driving it, it reminded me of my 77' Triumph for rickety-ness and my 31 inch tire Tacoma without power steering.

Welcome to the world of trucks indeed, it's been over 3 years since I've owned a truck. And that was a newer Dodge Ram, which was smooth anyway. I am used to fine tuning, so I guess I am thinking any bump and rattle I feel is an "imperfection".

I've already changed the oil and antifreeze, I need to change (probably add) transmission fluid/oil too. Brake fluid change is strangely one thing I have never done before. Also, I realized that this can't be a hydraulic clutch because I couldn't find the clutch cylinder. The headlights still don't work, but the bulbs are good, so I assume I just need to replace the switch. Other than that, besides the wipers, everything is ready to go.

It's been a definite experience.

I just want to ask, "When shifting, I have come to believe that I have to match the engine RPMs with the speed of the car when I shift right? regardless if I double clutch." Because when you downshift, you need to rev the engine a little to bring it up to speed right? So, what I am saying is that I first believed that with double clutching, all you have to do is shift to neutral, release the clutch and then right when you want to shift, you push the clutch in and throw the selector into gear (regardless of the engine rpms). I could be wrong though, or it could be low in tranny oil and wont shift regardless. I am resting today, so I wont check the oil today, but tomorrow I have off so....
 
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Old 02-15-2009, 10:38 AM
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I have to take time to think about how I shift my truck so I can explain how to do it because it's become so natural to do it. I store the truck during the winter but in the spring I need to do a couple of shifts just to get use to it again, it doesn't take long. In fact, after I start driving it I tend to double clutch newer trucks when I drive them.

I just pump the clutch when I shift. Down, up,shift to neutral, down, into gear. I think you may be over thinking the procedure. Don't hesitate, just shift. As long as you have sufficient lube in the tranny you will master it. Now down shifting, that's a bit trickier. It took me a while to figure that out. I just happened to meet an older gentleman at a show who owned a F-5 and I asked him how he did it. From his explanation I was able to master the double clutch downshift in no time. I have a 95% success rate at downshifting without grinding.
 
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Old 02-15-2009, 12:11 PM
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It's very difficult to explain. You will let off on the throttle in order to "relax" any forces - either the engine turning the transmission, or the transmission trying to drive the engine. So yes you are sort of matching rpms.

You'll get the hang of it - some day you'll just do it and then it will become natural to you.
 
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Old 02-15-2009, 08:41 PM
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You are getting good info. When first driving my 48 F1 I struggled shifting gears without grinding. My problem was I was over revving the engine as compared to what the speed I was traveling. Once I slowed engine rpm I was able to shift smoothly. As stated once you get the hang of it , it just comes natural to you. Practice makes perfect.
 
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Old 02-15-2009, 09:09 PM
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Part of the bumpy might be the old tires if it still has the older type nylon tires. If they sit an extended period of time they will get flat on the bottom and feel like there is a square tires till they get warmed up usually 5 miles or so to "round "back out.
Good news on your getting it going.
Larry
 
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Old 02-16-2009, 11:12 AM
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I find the easiest way to shift my 4 speed is to keep one foot on the throttle as I manipulate the clutch with the other. I "feather" the throttle with a light touch as I put gentle pressure on the shifter and listen to the clicks of the gear teeth. As you feather the throttle, listen as the clicks get faster or slower then as the clicks reach their slowest frequency add pressure to the shifter and it should fall into gear. After a while, you'll get used to the shift points for your truck and it'll be far less difficult to find the gears.
Best of luck.
AJ
 
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Old 02-16-2009, 12:02 PM
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glad to hear trucks running. sounds like rpm's are dropping too much between shifts. like everyone said, just relax and feather throttle to raise rpm's just enough to shift up. on downshift, rpm's must be raised higher to "catch" next lower gear. you can bet your bottom dollar your not the first to grind this box!
 




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