If My Key lock/tumbler and Actuator rod failed, Could I still start the truck by pushing the rod down into the ignition switch?

Is there anything electrical up around the Key that would keep the truck from starting?? or sending power to the EEC Relay?
I'm Baffled here, It wont start, New relays- no power to the relays- Power to the dash, but still cant pull codes.
Baffled beyond Baffled now..

 

Anyone know if the actual key lock/tumbler part of the ignition comes in contact w/ anything electrical for the relays to work?
1988 f150 EFI 5.0

 

if the steering wheel & shifter (if it's an automatic) will unlock you should be able to jump the starter solenoid

 

The lock cylinder does not touch anything electrical.

 

Got the steering wheel, collar AND ignition cylinder off my vehicle right now and the actuator still starts & stops the engine.

 

Hope this is on topic: I had a part fail in the column when I was out in the sticks one time, and could turn the key to on, but could not get the starter. I took a screwdriver across the solenoid terminals to start the truck. This is convenient as the solenoid terminals are bare, open and sitting right there on the right fender wall, facing up. Don't know why they don't get shorted across more often.
Rod

 

I got the crap shocked out of me when I turned the key and the other keys touched the metal collar around the cylinder. The switch was the culprit.
If the column is unlocked it would seem that you could start the truck by dropping the switch down and just moving the pin that goes up into the column. Back toward you is acc. next should be off, next run, then push hard against the spring and let go when it starts. I didn't try it when I changed the switch out but if I would've had the battery connected ...

 

I don't want to hijack the thread but my problems may be inter related to yours, so maybe we both can get some help.

The linkage between the steering column lock and the actuator rod went out in mine. Wife got the truck to work but couldn't turn it off without pulling the coil wire. After work I went to get the truck and half way home the steering locked up while IN MOTION (scary few seconds there).

Now I have the ignition licked, but the engine dies when placed in gear or shortly after setting in motion.



Can a faulty ignition system set up a domino effect and kill other components?

I've been told its probably my ignition module, if its not just a random thing involving timing and/or vacuum, which I plan to check tomorrow.

 

Dracoila, your problems sound something like what I experienced on mine.

My ignition would sometimes stick with the starter running and I would have to turn the ignition key back and forth to get the starter to stop. Even when I would get the engine to start normally sometimes I would have to back the key up a bit to get the starter to stop and leave the engine running too. The chrome collar would actually spin around on the cylinder requiring me to line up the collar with key slot to be able to insert the key.

So I changed the ignition lock cylinder along with the door locks for continuity (kit $104.99 from Ford for all three). The old lock cylinder fell apart in my hand when I got it out.

The problem still existed with the starter running on though and after I had put a new battery and alternator in it due to another issue (bad alternator) the added juice was apparent by the aforementioned jolt of electricity through the cylinder.

So I replaced the switch ($17.99 Autozone). The old switch spring that that returns the key back to run was very weak. Now starting is like any other car and I could actually trust another person to start the truck without it possibly burning down.

I said all that to say this. If your lock cylinder is bad it may be out of whack enough to engage the steering wheel lock at inopportune moments (or not at all). The switch could be the issue with the truck not shutting off too.

Unless you are sure that the actuator rod is broken I would certainly look at these two items.

To answer your question about ignition components frying the switch - my answer would be "sort of". If you are having problems starting the truck because of bad ignition components or whatever, I could see that the extra use of the cylinder and switch while grinding away on the starter could be bad for them over a period of time.

 

im going to be watching this thread because my 94 ext cab 4x4 has 95% of the same problems you are having guess its one of those things they dont have enough people coming forward to have a recall on it maybe

 

When I got this truck from the previous owner, I also received every scrap of paper concerning it-receipts on everything performed,- this guy saved EVERYTHING...2-1/2 inch thick folder ..-full.
I found a recall paper sent to him from A dealership in CO. back in '88 about faulty ignition system- that could catch fire / lock steering / and cease operation of vehicle.- and he had it all replaced-(I have that receipt too)- However, its the second ignition, going on a third right now being in my possession for the past three years- its an ongoing problem with some of these trucks-There definitely was a Recall for the 1988's-I guess the problem carried on through the years...- Another flawless design from the ford motor company.

My Ignition failed on me after the initial power failure to my primary ignition system..the motor cranked, and cranked, until the actuator crumbled, and now I'm jumping the solenoid with a screwdriver trying to seek out the fault-
I just didn't know if it could be a electricity within the tumbler / Key area..stranger things have been found out...

 

OK.
I bypassed the ignition key cylinder by removing the 'toothed' linkage that activates the actuator rod, and the steering column locking mechanism. I now start the vehicle with a set of pliars with a push/pull grip after removing the second cosmetic collar nearest the dash. This is a temp fix until I can locate parts for corrective surgery.
My second problem: Truck idled well but died when placed in gear. I must always remember the K.I.S.S. principle. After buying a Haynes manual, and several suspect components (recommended by Checkers & AutoZone) it was as simple as a grossly clogged air filter, apparently. The housing had cracked underneath & a piece 1"x2" piece was hanging on by faith alone. Sucked in a lot of crud since being winter prepped in the fall. I cleaned the housing, cut a piece of plastic to overlay the loose piece, and melted a piece of plastic to 'weld' it into position. Is that redneck enough?
The vehicle made a successful jaunt, but I'll put some miles on it later when I have someone near a phone should I need retrieval.
Thanks for all the input.
Lex

 

Man these Fords take a licking and keep on ticking

 

OK so this is the second set of posts concerning your ignition. Is the actuator rod that's causing your problems? That ended up being the root of my ignition issues.

Tim

 

yea, sorry about the posts-..i'm kinda all over the place with this nonsense......I remember you from a few posts back -and decided to fix the actuator first.
I just changed out the actuator rod today, it was kinda complicated, but I found a break-down of the task w/ Pics on line- It was a 85 big bronco- but everything was the same as my 88 f150. -and I put in a new lock tumbler in to boot- Nice and tight- glad I did it- now I'm not trying to start it at the solenoid with a screwdriver any more..
On to the 2nd problem of no power now- i'm armed with a 12v test lite now.-we'll find it sooner or later.
-Thanks for the help.