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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck

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  #16  
Old 09-17-2011, 12:12 PM
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The resistor that sometimes goes bad is the larger white "disc" about in the middle of the switch. Thanks for the pic Montana.
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  #17  
Old 09-18-2011, 01:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montana_highboy View Post
For future reference, depress button depicted below
Click the image to open in full size.
Oooo... good picture, Montana! :)

I changed the file name on mine and also I scanned mine with
a borrowed scanner that just can never be as good as my old
"industrial" HP 4c...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/switch.jpg

The nut is easy to remove with the right tool...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/switchtool.jpg

And a picture of the headlight **** and stem and windshield
wiper's ****-clip that needs to be pulled at the same time...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/coverhardware.jpg

Pull on that clip with a cotter pin puller...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/cotterpin.jpg

Alvin in AZ
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  #18  
Old 09-18-2011, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holiver31 View Post
if replacing the bulbs dont work you may try cleaning the connections on the back of the gauge panel with some rubbing alcohol since they are notorious for becoming corroded.

However basically the whole back of the panel is one giant printed circuit board.

If the cluster back is crumbling you may want to look into finding another gauge cluster or building your own.
There's no need to "build your own" because 1981/91 Econolines use the same cluster back (and printed circuit) as 1976/79 F100/350's, 1978/79 Bronco's with Oil/Amp guages.

1976/79 F100/350's, 1976/80 Econolines & 1978/79 Bronco's used cluster backs made from a composition material that can TURN TO DUST before your very eyes!

In 1981, Ford came out with hard plastic cluster backs, these replaced the crap originals. Some of the originals were replaced, some were not.

E1PZ-10848-A .. Cluster Back-Use with Oil/Amp Gauges / Obsolete

Applications: 1976/79 F100/350 / 1976/91 Econoline / 1978/79 Bronco.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
E1PZ-10848-B .. Cluster Back-Use with Oil/Amp Warning Lights / Obsolete

Applications: 1976/79 F100/350 / 1976/86 Econoline / 1978/79 Bronco.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
D6TZ-10K843-B .. Printed Circuit Board-Use with Oil/Amp Gauges / Obsolete

Applications: 1976/79 F100/350 / 1976/91 Econoline / 1978/79 Bronco.
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  #19  
Old 08-09-2012, 05:56 AM
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Dear Sir,

Where would I be able to purchase a headlight switch and cluster back for my 1979 f150 4x4? My dim is bright and bright is dim and turn signal operates brake light in dash!! All messed up.
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  #20  
Old 08-09-2012, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palsims View Post
Where would I be able to purchase a headlight switch and cluster back for my 1979 F150 4x4? My dim is bright and bright is dim and turn signal operates brake light in dash!! All messed up.
Welcome to FTE

There are TWO different cluster backs, they do not interchange!

Does your truck have Oil & Amp gauges (E1PZ-10848-A) or Oil & Amp warning lamps (E1PZ-10848-B)?

CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 519 of E1PZ-10848-A and 84 of E1PZ-10848-B = 800-476-9653.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You can buy the headlamp switch at any autoparts store.

D3AZ-11654-A .. Headlamp Switch (Motorcraft SW-1226).

Applications: 1978/79 F100/350, Bronco & Econoline // 1973 Mustang/Cougar / 1973/74 Galaxie/LTD / 1973/76 Torino/Ranchero / 1973/77 Maverick/Comet / 1974/76 Cougar.

1974/78 Mustang II / 1974/80 Pinto/Bobcat / 1975/78 LTD without hidden headlamps / 1975/80 Granada/Monarch / 1977/80 Lincoln Versailles.
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  #21  
Old 08-09-2012, 05:14 PM
81-F-150-Explorer 81-F-150-Explorer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLR View Post
The resistor that sometimes goes bad is the larger white "disc" about in the middle of the switch. Thanks for the pic Montana.
The large white disc is the heat insulator.

The variable resistor for the instrument lights is a part of the white disc, as the metal spring looking circut.

The thermal circut breaker is on the other side of the white disc. If the current draw exceeds the rated limit for the switch, due to a short circut, the excessive heat passing through the white insulator will cause the circut breaker to open, shutting off the headlamps. When it cools back down the lights will come back on. This sometimes happens in quick succession. It is sometimes triggered by upgrading headlamps to halogens due to the rise in amperage needed to run halogens.

The circut breaker also has a limited life span. It's basically a spring that heats up to cut the connection. When it wears out, it will also cause the headlamps to cycle on and off.


Quote:
Originally Posted by palsims

Dear Sir,

Where would I be able to purchase a headlight switch and cluster back for my 1979 f150 4x4? My dim is bright and bright is dim and turn signal operates brake light in dash!! All messed up.
It sounds like someone swapped the cluster out on you, with the incorrect printed circut. Perhaps the original suffered from cluster rot, and they found any old one to stick in there.

Check the number on the back of the printed circut and post it.

I'm guessing it's from the wrong year for your truck. A new cluster back won't fix the problems you describe, that will only fix cluster rot, but the correct printed circut might.
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  #22  
Old 09-03-2012, 07:10 PM
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Just thanks....

You guys are indeed awesome. I took down my steering post a few years ago to replace ignition module (1986 F-150 stepside) and had a helluva time doing it, got stuck right at the start because I couldn't figure out how to get ***** off the headlights and wiper switches. I thought I wrote up notes at the time but couldn't find them today and couldn't remember a thing. You saved me a lot of time!

I'm gonna get stuck again because I can't remember how to lower the steering post, so I'll be back!
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  #23  
Old 11-12-2012, 06:41 PM
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dimmer switch

I have depressed that button in the past and had no problem. Tonight I tyried it for 15 minutes and it will not come out. Any ideas?
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  #24  
Old 07-21-2013, 10:46 PM
MTmtntinkeringagain MTmtntinkeringagain is offline
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Thanks for the great photo and help. Just found a hot wire to carb. Have had a fire due to PO, so now that finding the hot, starter keeps turning, Batt *obviously* losing power, appreciate the help so can get behind plastic instrument panel...... correct whatever ELSE PO did. I'm a rookie, so FTE is a blessing to us who's Messin' w/old Fords
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  #25  
Old 07-22-2013, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benbuilder View Post
I have depressed that button in the past and had no problem. Tonight I tyried it for 15 minutes and it will not come out. Any ideas?
1. disconnect the battery
2. find the button and be ready to push it down
3. lightly push and pull on the light switch ****, that might help the button go down.

At least that the trick that works for me.
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  #26  
Old 08-24-2013, 10:46 PM
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This is an absolutely perfect picture of the switch in question. Mine was upside-down compared to the pic, so I made damn sure to turn it the other way for ease of ****-removal in future, thanks for inspiring a great idea!
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  #27  
Old 07-13-2014, 04:05 PM
itzsnitz itzsnitz is offline
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Switch Replacement/Upgrade

Has anyone seen an upgrade for this switch? I don't care for the durability issues and I'm thinking about swapping in hard switches instead.
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  #28  
Old 10-08-2014, 02:55 PM
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Just for anyone new and who doesn't already have their dash all apart to get to this switch, you don't have to disassemble any of the dash. Just follow the instructions to pop out the **** shaft, unscrew the nut holding it to the dash and it falls inward a little, and there is just barely enough slack in the wires that you can separate the wiring harness from the switch itself. I just did it myself - and I'm a newbie. LOL.
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Old 10-08-2014, 02:55 PM
 
 
 
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