Where would I be able to purchase a headlight switch and cluster back for my 1979 F150 4x4? My dim is bright and bright is dim and turn signal operates brake light in dash!! All messed up.
Welcome to FTE
There are TWO different cluster backs, they do not interchange!
Does your truck have Oil & Amp gauges (E1PZ-10848-A) or Oil & Amp warning lamps (E1PZ-10848-B)?
CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 519 of E1PZ-10848-A and 84 of E1PZ-10848-B = 800-476-9653.
You can buy the headlamp switch at any autoparts store.
The resistor that sometimes goes bad is the larger white "disc" about in the middle of the switch. Thanks for the pic Montana.
The large white disc is the heat insulator.
The variable resistor for the instrument lights is a part of the white disc, as the metal spring looking circut.
The thermal circut breaker is on the other side of the white disc. If the current draw exceeds the rated limit for the switch, due to a short circut, the excessive heat passing through the white insulator will cause the circut breaker to open, shutting off the headlamps. When it cools back down the lights will come back on. This sometimes happens in quick succession. It is sometimes triggered by upgrading headlamps to halogens due to the rise in amperage needed to run halogens.
The circut breaker also has a limited life span. It's basically a spring that heats up to cut the connection. When it wears out, it will also cause the headlamps to cycle on and off.
Originally Posted by palsims
Where would I be able to purchase a headlight switch and cluster back for my 1979 f150 4x4? My dim is bright and bright is dim and turn signal operates brake light in dash!! All messed up.
It sounds like someone swapped the cluster out on you, with the incorrect printed circut. Perhaps the original suffered from cluster rot, and they found any old one to stick in there.
Check the number on the back of the printed circut and post it.
I'm guessing it's from the wrong year for your truck. A new cluster back won't fix the problems you describe, that will only fix cluster rot, but the correct printed circut might.
You guys are indeed awesome. I took down my steering post a few years ago to replace ignition module (1986 F-150 stepside) and had a helluva time doing it, got stuck right at the start because I couldn't figure out how to get ***** off the headlights and wiper switches. I thought I wrote up notes at the time but couldn't find them today and couldn't remember a thing. You saved me a lot of time!
I'm gonna get stuck again because I can't remember how to lower the steering post, so I'll be back!
Thanks for the great photo and help. Just found a hot wire to carb. Have had a fire due to PO, so now that finding the hot, starter keeps turning, Batt *obviously* losing power, appreciate the help so can get behind plastic instrument panel...... correct whatever ELSE PO did. I'm a rookie, so FTE is a blessing to us who's Messin' w/old Fords
This is an absolutely perfect picture of the switch in question. Mine was upside-down compared to the pic, so I made damn sure to turn it the other way for ease of ****-removal in future, thanks for inspiring a great idea!
Just for anyone new and who doesn't already have their dash all apart to get to this switch, you don't have to disassemble any of the dash. Just follow the instructions to pop out the **** shaft, unscrew the nut holding it to the dash and it falls inward a little, and there is just barely enough slack in the wires that you can separate the wiring harness from the switch itself. I just did it myself - and I'm a newbie. LOL.
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