JesterPgh: That's the best web writeup I've seen. It says pretty much what Jim Bensen at ATS said when I begged him for a system for my 6.9L back in '99. He talked me out of it.
Dean88: You shouldn't have told that story about the mud bogger. Now I'm really scared!
Nitrous: I have never tried it on my diesel but because it's an oxidizer, it will add extra oxygen to that excess of fuel in the combustion chamber (mechanical pumps are notoriously inaccurate fuel metering devices... compared to electronics) and helps it combust. If finely controlled, it may actually be better for an NA IDI than propane because it's like adding more air... without the engine having to actually inhale it. Plus, it doesn't have to face poor mixing in the cylinder, as with propane on an IDI, it just increases the oxygen content of the incoming air. Supercharging in a bottle!!
Propane: Propane is a fuel, so you are just adding more fuel to the combustion chamber. You still need to add in more air to gain the power benefit and that's why it doesn't work so well on an NA engine because all you have is atmospheric pressure to fill the cylinder. If you get a big jump out of propane on an NA engine, it means you could have turned the pump up a little more. If your fuel rate is set right, all you are doing is adding more fuel. Propane does act as an accelerant, kinda like boosting the cetane rating a little. Not sure how much power that's worth in itself. Still, whether you burn diesel or propane, you still need fuel and air mixed in the right amounts to make power and you need MORE air and fuel to make MORE power. If you focus on the diesel fuel system, getting that mixture just right for the amount of air the engine can inhale, you won't gain much extra upsetting that mixture by adding more fuel. This is why, I think, that propane injection is becoming obsolete. You don't see it as much on the newer electronic trucks as you used to because they have a fine control of fuel delivery. When they overfuel, they usually give it a shot of nitrous (more oxygen) to mix with the fuel.
"Ok, you want one part diesel fuel. Would you like a side order of nitrous with that?"
Ok, I may experiment with the propane bein is all I need is just a solenoid shut off.
But yeah, that mud bog truck scares the ever living crap out of me. Everytime he opens up that valve, I always invision the heads off that poor underdesigned motor to blow off.
But, anyone know how to build a homemade N02 kit.
Wait a minute, I got an idea, what about just injecting straight 02 like off of a welding rig. What would happen if I mounted a small #3 bottle, put a regulator on it, then put a safety solenoid switch on it, then ran a 3/8 line to the intake.
Wait a minute, I got an idea, what about just injecting straight 02 like off of a welding rig. What would happen if I mounted a small #3 bottle, put a regulator on it, then put a safety solenoid switch on it, then ran a 3/8 line to the intake.
There's a reason those Airgas trucks run around with flammable placards on them. Even a small amount could blow you to the sky if there were to be a leak and a ignition source.
Get a job after school or work in the summer and buy a turbo, new or used.
People like the mud bogging Blazer guy is a big reason why they give out those Darwin awards every year.
Jason
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C'mon, you can't really be THAT ignorant... can you?
'08 Dodge 2500 MegaCab 4wd, 6.7 Cummins, 6 spd auto, DPF & EGR fell off
'93 F350 CC 4wd 7.3L 5spd, 240K miles
'69 Bronco SEFI 5.0, NP435, geared, locked...
Propane, C3H8, so that is adding 3 carbon atoms and 8 hydrogen atoms per molecule of propane.
And the engine is running on hydrogen.
But another way to look at this, the more propane you blow in the intake, the less oxygen you have to burn both the fuel and hydrogen.
From experience I can tell you propane makes 20 times the difference on a turbo engine than it does on a NA motor.
Sounds like you mud bogger buddy is just injecting fuel to provide the ignition source for the propane (hydrogen).
All that rattling when he does that, good way to kill your engine.
Head gaskets and pistons are at high risk.
When you hear the rattle, that means to much propane if you want to keep your engine running.
Remember, 300 feet or less in a mud pit versus miles out on the highway is two very different animals.
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86 F250 HD 6.9 IDI ATS turbo "not exactly" stock 4x4 T19 BW1345 3.55LS both ends D60 front, 10.25" Sterling rear, ram air, dual stacks.
There's a reason those Airgas trucks run around with flammable placards on them. Even a small amount could blow you to the sky if there were to be a leak and a ignition source.
Get a job after school or work in the summer and buy a turbo, new or used.
People like the mud bogging Blazer guy is a big reason why they give out those Darwin awards every year.
Jason
The flammable placards are for the Propane and Acetlyne on the rig, not the oxygen. Oxygen isn't flamable, it just is a combustion accelerant.
I do have a job, but I gotta other things I have to pay for such as diesel, insurance, and ultimately college.
Yeah, the blazer is def a Darwin award. I can't believe the poor thing still survives, not to mention he doesn't trailer it to the bog, he drives it there.
It don't burn, but it sure does make everything else burn very well, even some things that normally don't burn.
If you want the propane, do it carefully and in small amounts.
When it starts rattling, turn the propane down some.
Just trying to save your engine and a lot of money for you.
I know they say the propane is just a catalyst, but it don't really work quite like that in the real world.
I built the Ziggester system with all the bells and whistles.
And with accurate fuel records, even the MPG increase was offset by the cost of propane, never mind trying to pay for the system with fuel savings.
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86 F250 HD 6.9 IDI ATS turbo "not exactly" stock 4x4 T19 BW1345 3.55LS both ends D60 front, 10.25" Sterling rear, ram air, dual stacks.
with NO2 its gonna be much easier on these diesels than a gasser, for the primary reason of this: the intake manifold only breathes air, that mean that all you need is to set up a dry kit, which will inject only NO2 into the manny. i think all one should need is a single nossle of ones choice. now turn up your pump to add the correct/most efficient blend of fuel to mix and there ya go. just fab a single nozzle right below the air cleaner...i think that will work.
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C'mon, you can't really be THAT ignorant... can you?
'08 Dodge 2500 MegaCab 4wd, 6.7 Cummins, 6 spd auto, DPF & EGR fell off
'93 F350 CC 4wd 7.3L 5spd, 240K miles
'69 Bronco SEFI 5.0, NP435, geared, locked...
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But all of those gases and oxygen together gives you what... 
