1999 F-150 5.4L Engine Remove and Install for Rebuild
Does anyone know if the 5.4L engine (w/PI heads) can be removed and/or installed (from a 99 F-150) with the intake manifold and exhaust manifolds in place. Couldn't find any such posts, if one exists please point me to it. The Haynes manual has them on to be removed list prior to pulling the engine.
I have most everything pulled apart and ready to go and fom the looks of it, I suspect there will be plenty of room to get it in and out with them in place. Might remove the throttle body and some of the emissions sensor brackets to be safe. This appears to be work that would best be performed with the engine out - for the sake of knuckle preservation.
Also it seems like it would be a whole heck of alot easier to reassemble the fuel rack on the engine stand versus in the truck. Wanted to hear it could be done and it would be a good practice from someone who has actually done it.
doin sam right now actually.....seems like alot of work but shaves off a number of hours and some skin on the hands to undo all and lift cab n front clip off chassis...its alot less work than it seems untill you compare it to doin all that crap under the cowl....
Unfortunetely I do not have the facilities to pull the cab. I agree that it would probably save about 1 square inch of knuckle skin.
I am actaully down to the remaining 4 bolts. Two in the motor mounts and the two in the transmission. I ended up pulling the intake manifold off. The tough spot it getting the bolts out of the top of the transmission going to the engine. I was able to get the passenger side out with a 4ft extension. Sure would be nice if there was some holes in the cab floor tunnel to get access to these bolts! The driver side is a real beast becase the transfer case it smack in the way and there is no direct shot into the bolt.
Once the engine is out I am going to try and scout out a better way to get it back in. I would like to assemble the intake on the engine prior to reinstalling. Thanks for your time and reply.
hi this may help, with the plastic inner wheel arch removed on my 4,2 the top trans bolts were easy to see and reach. i went with the 4 foot bar option and it took hours, just wish i new what i know now. good luck bokker.
I started this same project yesterday. I was told you had to pull the cab and was also told you don't have to so of course I didn't. After a few bloody knuckles, swear words and a couple of beers it finally came out. Not nearly as easy as I had hoped but not too bad either. Sure not as easy as the older trucks thats for sure.
A couple of good lessons/ experiences I would like to pass along.
(1.) I had my engine rebuilt, which had 181k on it. I've my truck since driving it off the lot and had done the requisite oil changes and maintenance. When I took over oil changes at 100k, from the dealer, I noticed it was burning 0.5 to 1.0 quarts each oil change. Strange it just started burning oil at 100k huh? I noticed a plume from the tail pipe when hitting the pedal. It really didn't seem to have the get-up and go I remembered it having. When my engine split its second plug (#4) (#2 was first) and the dealer was not able to repair it, they did offer to replace the one head for $3k though. I had it towed home, did a compression check and was able to confirm low compression on a couple of the cylinders which rose to normal with a couple shots of oil (a.k.a worn rings). This discovery confirmed that it was really time for a rebuild and not a band-aid repair (new head). I did all the removal and installation work my self. I asked around and found a top-notch engine builder in Denver who did it for $3200 (out the door). The advantage of having a builder do yours is that you know what they are starting with. I had him put inserts into all the plug holes which halts my plug spitting epidemic. The engine swap places were slighly more, the trade off it is that having your engine rebuilt will take a week or so. However, knowing what the engine rebuilder starts with...priceless.
(2.) Label and bag everything. I used roughly 100 zip lock bags with Sharpie marker labels. I also purchased an electrical numbering kit (available at Home Depot, Lowes, most electrical supply houses) to label vacuum lines and electrical connectors. This really streamlined the reassembly.
(3.) Have engine builder tank / clean all your parts. Clean your engine compartment with soapy water / degreaser with the engine out. It's amazing what it looks like clean again.
(4.) Chase threads on everything. It makes reassembly go so so so so smoothly.
(5.) Have your injectors cleaned while they are out. I know that some folks swear having them cleaned on the rail. I think it is beneficial to have them cleaned and visually inspected during operation. I found a place that did them for $15 a piece. When they recieve them in the morning, they send them back the same day. How quickly you need them is up to the shipping option you choose. I used Fuel Injector Connection (Untitled 1) and was very happy that I was able to get my own injectors back.
(6.) Make sure you have the right tools. You are going to need a removal tool for the fan, pullers for the power steering pump and dampener. I also found that sockets with a built in universal (flex) connections were very helpful. The set of ratcheting wrenches and wrench sockets allowed access to some pretty tight places that I otherwise would not have been able to get a rachet into. Specifically, the two bolts on top of the transmission (13mm) as well as the nuts holding the engine to the torque converter (9/16").
(7.) You will need to remove the intake to get to the driver side top engine to trans bolt. However, you can leave the intake fairly intact on and off the truck. Contrary to what Haynes tells you, it is not necessary to remove the injectors and fuel rail prior to pulling the intake. However, you will want to remove the throttle body. Once off the engine you can disassemble these assemblies as needed.
(8.) I had to take the intake air box (immediately below the intake manifold) from the intake (puddle of oil inside). The insulation cover that goes over the top of the intake air box has insulation on the lower side that just crumbled to dust when touched. It is concievable that you can replace the insulation with some sort of high quality mineral insulation (i.e. Kaol Wool). Rather than screw around, I just purchased a new one from my friends at Ford.
(9.) Replace heater hoses. Once the intake is out, both hoses are very accessible and easy to replace. I figured it was a lot easier to replace them with the engine out, than later.
(10.) While you can remove the engine with the mounts attached, it is nearly impossible to get it in with them on. After cleaning and painting the mounts, I set them in the holders, with the bolts through them, in the frame and worried about bolting them up to the engine once all the transmission bolts were reinstalled and the exhaust headers where reconnected I bolted the mounts to the engine.
(11.) Be carefull not to disturb the transmission dip stick. Mine popped out of the hole and I had a red river of ATF flowing down my driveway.
(12.) After rebuilding and once you turn the engine over to get oil pressure up, do yourself a favor and reinstall a new set of Motorcraft plugs with anti-sieze to the correct torque spec. When I replaced mine at 100k, I used Bosch. The plug spitting problem is much more prevalent with non-Motorcraft plugs.
Hope that helps...somebody. Overall, not too bad of a job.
wow wish I had all that before I did mine a year ago...However I did just about everything you said to do, minus the heater hoses. Great tips though...oh yeah LABEL LABEL LABEL and dont forget to put the oil pressure sensor in before you put the motor back in. I couldnt get mine back in so I bought a set of manual gages and am now using them.
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A digital camera is a great memory aid, and you can shoot many confined areas by reaching in with the camera and shooting blind, then reviewing pics later. Fastener length, hose routing, etc are much easier with digital pics available.
Removing the inner fenderweiis is an easy way to improve access.
This is very helpful. I am in a very similar situation as you. My truck has 175k on it and I took over the maintenance at 100k. I am shopping around now for an engine rebuilder in the hudson valley, lower new your state. if anybody knows someone, please let me know. Any additional info or tips, please pass along.
Sorry for the delay in reply. To answer your questions:
(1.) My truck is a (early production Oct 98) 1999.
(2.) The actual cost of the rebuild was $2,800. I paid an additional $400 to have heli-coils installed in all the plugs. This way I 'should' not have further plug spitting issues. While the engine was out I replaced some other misc pieces and parts. Specifically, radiator supply and return hoses, had alternator rebuilt by a local shop, sent in the injectors to be cleaned, and since the insulation on the air intake box came off so I replaced that as well. All said I think it cost about $3,600. Not having a new truck payment and a truck that I can still still work on -PRICELESS!
(3.) I got a 12/12 (12 Month / 12k warrantee) from the rebuilder. Under normal circumstances I would really want a 36/36. However, since the engine was mine and the guy had a great reputation I wasn't that worried. When I got the engine back from him it was pretty much ready to drop back in. Valve covers and timing chain cover were installed and he provided all the misc gaskets (remote oil filter and all intake manifold related gaskets). Engine was pretty much ready to run - just had to turn over to build oil pressure once installed (see original post).
Im removing a seized 5.4 engine and i didn't have to remove the intake to get to the top driver side engine to transmission BOLT. I just used a 9/16 wrench and i reached it w/ my hand...oh and patience because it would turn little by little.
My question is, how can i remove the torque converter bolts if my engine doesnt turn?? can i remove the motor with the tc attached???
That's a really good question Ortiz and unfortunately one I don't have an answer too. I would recommend searching this site and the internet for answers. I suspect there's got to be a way.
You might want to see how many of the torque converter nuts you can see. If you're lucky you might be able to see three of the four and will have to get creative for the 4th (big breaker bar, impact wrench on the crank shaft etc). In the past i've used a ratcheting wrench and wrench sockets to get at some of the torque converter nuts. Hopefully you don't have to pull the tranny and engine together!
Also - Ford has recently really dropped thier pants/ price on rebuit motors. I know someone who recently got one for right at $3000. It was a beauty - came with plugs, oil pan, water pump, gaskets, new valve covers, and oil! Has a 36 month unlimited mileage warrantee. If there's a problem (not related to anything stupid the installer did) you take it to the dealership and its covered. My buddy was able to talk them down but if you're in a metropolitan area with lots of dealers you should be able to round robin them down.
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