I have a stock 2002 Excursion 4x4 7.3 PSD. I use it regularly to tow my Jayco Octane 24Z toy hauler camping trailer. The trailer weighs approximately 7000 lbs, and when I am towing my motorcycles and stuff inside I am roughly at 10,000 lbs. I have a dual cam weight distribution hitch, and prodigy brake controller.

I've noticed some sway and wandering while towing. I expecially notice the sway and unsteadyness when a tractor trailer or even another vehicle passes me.

I've done some preliminary asking around with regard to this sort of thing and have been told I need to upgrade the rear suspension to correct these problems.

Here are some of the things I've been told, and I'd like to hear from you guys about it:
Get air bladder suspension enhancements with onborad controller and compressor to level out the ride.
Get an exhaust gas temp sensor.
Get a larger intake and larger exhaust.
Get a computer chip with programs for towing and economy.
Get an upgraded turbo for towing power.
Get an upgraded sway bar.

Does anyone have any advice or recommendations. I am happy with the power but wouldn't mind some performance enhancements, but that's not really a priority. I do place a priority on safety and having it handle and ride better. The exhaust sensor was something someone said I definately needed since I use it alot for towing.

After hearing all that I am concerned about the costs. I want a strong reliable steady sure tow vehicle, not a hot rod. Are all those things necessary, or would it be advisable to do some instead of others, and if so which ones and and in what order? Thanks y'all.

 

I simply do not have the time at the moment to go into a detailed explaination...

I can tell you that I am fairly confident we can get you straightened out with a few fairly simple DIY items...NO you do not IMO have to do most of the things on your list...I've helped a few of the folks on this forum as well as RV.net get their towing setups dialed in...and I'm confident I can help you...

I am sorry I don't have extra time right now to type...hopefully in about 3 hours I will...I'm in the peoples republic of Los Angeles...so it isn't as late as it seems!

Perhaps someone else will chime in...but rest assured...we'll get you fixed up!

Joe

 

I tow a 9500# 24' enclosed car trailer with my stock Excursion and it's rock solid with no sway whatsoever. I do have the equalizing hitch set up so that the trailer and the Excursion set dead level when loaded and I load the car so that the weight of the trailer is slightly biased toward the front of the trailer.

 

First - tire pressure. I typically run max or near max tire pressure when towing. Hand in hand with that is Load Range E tires if you don't already have them.

Second - shocks. The stock ones are crap. I recently upgraded to Ranchos and I'm happy with them, others have reported great improvements with Bilsteins.

Finally - RoadMaster Active Suspension fixed my wandering. I have the RAS and no rear anti-sway bar, others have both. I was amazed at the improvemnts (esp with towing) the RAS made. When you look at how it works, it really makes sence.

Thats my 2 cents worth.

 

I put the Air lift suspension bags and compressor on my mom's X, she tows a 2 horse trailer with standard 2" ball hitch. huge improvement... Rancho 9000 shocks are great too. you can adjust the firmness of the shocks with a dial on the bottom of the shock... they make an in cab controller for the rancho's too...
Plus agree with other suggestions that others have made... make sure your weight in the trailer is distributed correctly too..

 

So, for towing, .... RAS or air lift suspension????

 

Most will probably say the RAS, as will I.

Do some searches and you'll find loads of info regarding the RAS, pay attention to the posts from X_Hemi_Guy, the one most on here consider the guy to go to regarding the RAS.

Doing some more searching and you'll find the VB spring swap which involves getting springs from a F250/350 and replacing the softer springs on the Excursion with the F250/350 springs. Stewart_H has plenty of info on this upgrade.

 

goldsmje,

Okay I've got a few minutes to type.

The others have given you some great advice.

I'll try and go a little farther.

First off WEIGH YOUR SETUP. That is critical.

A high percentage of towing issues are caused by IMPROPER TONGUE WEIGHT on the LOADED trailer. TOo many folks believe the trailer brochures that state the tongue weight is X...well they are quoting an EMPTY trailer...when you LOAD up your trailer with all those toys in the REAR of your trailer you are likely UNLOADING your tongue and that leads to an unstable towing situation (i.e. SWAY). So my first suggestion is to head to the scales with your trailer AND Ex LOADED as you would for a trip.

There are THREE weights you need to get. Get individual Ex axle weights and combined TH axle weights.

1) Ex UNHITCHED but loaded with family and gear that you normally carry IN the Ex. This is your BASELINE front axle weight you will strive to return to with WD applied.

2) Ex hitched with WD ENGAGED. Compare your FRONT axle weight here to that in #1 above. If the axle weight is LOWER here than in #1...you need MORE WD applied on your DC. If it is HIGHER than in #1 (unlikely but possible) you need LESS WD applied. Tweak your DC and return to the scales to get your FRONT axle weight BACK TO what it is in #1.

3) Ex hitched but with WD NOT engaged. This will give you your TONGUE weight. You will have to SUBTRACT the weight on your REAR axle that is showing up from your FRONT axle being unloaded...compare your FRONT axle that you got in #1 and you will notice your front is much lighter in this configuration...subtract the weight from the rear that is simply shifted weight from the front...the added remainder on the rear axle is your TONGUE.

Now...Take the weight of your TOTAL Ex from #1 and subtract that from the 'combined weight' in #2 or #3 and that is your total TH weight. Divide your tongue weight by your total TH weight...if the total is 12-13% your tongue weight is good...if it is lower...you need to figure out HOW to get your tongue weight into that 12-13% range...if your fuel or fresh water tanks are in the FRONT of your trailer...you will have to use them as ballast to get your tongue weight UP to counterbalance the toys in the REAR of your TH...tongue weight is CRITICAL to towing stability.

Take a look at this post over on RV.net RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Towing: Travel Trailer Hitch Set-up Procedure it will walk you thru PROPER DC setup...pay particular attention to this thread...it is very well laid out.

Once you have your weights and balance proper...we can talk about actual modifications to your Ex. Too many have improper WD setups and blame the Ex...not that shocks or the RAS won't cure issues with the Ex...but lets start at step one with proper application of weight distribution as verified via an actual scale versus assuming catalog numbers.

Print out that sticky and work on your DC WD setup...I've set up a few DC's in my life...when you feel you have her dialed in...shoot me some photos because clearance issues with the DC are not obvious and can cause you issues. Hitch head tilt should be used to insure proper WD bar clearance to frame and give proper WD transfer. Top hitch ball couplers are especially tricky with the DC to get enough WD transfer and not set yourself up for possible binding issues in compound campground backing maneuvers.

If you have ANY questions what so ever...ASK...we'll get you thru this...but IMO proper WD hitch setup is key to solving your issues.

Good luck...BTW...I tow a 9000# loaded 35' hitch to bumper TT. I've towed it thru the Rockies and some very challenging roads in the US. I've towed 18,000 miles in 3 summers with our Ex. I've only done RAS, Hellwig and shocks as mods...and the RAS only came about when I upgraded to our 9000# TT that has 1100-1200#'s of tongue weight!...

joe.

 

^^^
See what I mean, Joe really knows his stuff.

 

I agree with MarkMoore... TIRE PRESSURE!!!! I was experiencing the same problems with my X when I was towing my 9000lb 25ft weekendwarrior. I run 55psi in all trailer tires and 65psi front and rear on the truck. It made a WORLD of difference. Try that first before any mod. Your duel cam weight distrabution hitch should do the trick. Thats a nice hitch. Make sure to crank it down for the sway with the truckers situation. Almost forgot... Try and tow 62-64 mph instead of 52-55mph that also helped out alot with the trucks wizzin by. My X seems to like that speed much better when towing. Good luck!!!

 

X_Hemi_Guy is correct, we need to make sure your WD is setup correctly first.

CAT scales are nice for this purpose because they have 3 pads - one for the trailer axles, one for the Tow Vehicle (TV) rear axle and one for the TV front axle. You pull on, get out, press a button. When the operator answers you say "Private Weigh". You pull off, go inside, pay and get a receipt. You then unhitch, pull back on, and say "Reweigh" and give them the number off the receipt. The reweigh is only $1.00, the original weigh is $8.00.

Now you have the Total weight of the TT and TV, the hitched weight of each axle and unhitched weight on each axle. If the front is less hitched than unhitched you need to adjust the WD setup.

Find a CAT scale here:

CAT Scale Search

When I first got my TT the dealer set the WD up wrong, the front had less weight when hitched than when unhitched. The first trip was scary, out near Palm Springs a strong cross wind was blowing and I got a lot of sway. I downloaded the Reese manual, found the article on RV.NET referenced above and adjusted the WD. That solved the problem.

Michael

 

Joe hit it on the nail head.. I always ruff figured 60% tongue weight in the trailer when loading, but if it is still dacing around you will have to get more technical. All that swaying in the right conditions can kill or at least ruin what should have been a fun trip eg. ice or heavy rain!!! When I was a kid I loaded a trailer wrong with firewood the roads were icy and it was dark, just got up to 50 and that trailer turned me ever which way but loose wound up in the barrow pit high centered and the trailer sticking out in the road the trailer wiring had been broken in all the 90 plus degree angles that we made sliding so no tail lights!!! Scared the heck out of me trying to get traffic stoped. Point is after that an old codger thaught me the 60% rule and it has saved my butt many times since. Hope this gives you many safe miles of travel also...Doug

 

the camper dealer set my hitch up when i bought my 2004 30' fleetwood prowler. these folks were super. the service guys spent over an hour and a half going through the set up. (tricities travel trailer in kingsport tn) that was when i had a '98 gmc suburban 1500. i traded the 'burb for a 2001 ex. the ex needs some E load rated tires now and new shocks ( insert $$$$.00 here) but on the highway the ex is a towing machine

 

One more thought, make sure you have trailer tires on your trailer. They are constructed specifically for the job, and they do make a difference.

Archie

 

Hey there, Just wanted to sent out a quick update. My wandering and sluggish steering problems have been cured, but I haven't tried towing with it yet. I turns out, the front drivers side tire had a bad wheel bearing, a bad upper and lower ball joint. SO after $1100, new ball joints, new wheel bearing, and alignment, the Ex steers much easier and tracks much truer. I was very happy with the result.
I haven't been able to tow with it yet, but I have taken measurements from the ground to the wheel well fender well at all 4 tires.
I also had my darling wife under the Ex with me this evening helping me install a Helwig sway bar. SO we will see.
One thing I did notice while taking my measurements, was that the drivers side front tire, which just had the wheel bearing and ball joints installed on, sits a half inch lower than the passenger side,...any idea's what's causing that and if it's something I need to me concerned about>