1966 F100 4x4 390 vs 5.0

[garbz2]

no modern ford five speed ODs will bolt to a FE due to integral bell and mated case. You may be able to use a NV Dodge or Chevy trans with an adapter to your current mated case. Check out transdapt and and a few others. Garbz

[bigblockford_390]

Originally Posted by garbz2

no modern ford five speed ODs will bolt to a FE due to integral bell and mated case. You may be able to use a NV Dodge or Chevy trans with an adapter to your current mated case.

Check out transdapt and and a few others.

Garbz

You can use the NV4500, I have a friend who put one behind a 390 in a 72 F-250, but he had to make his own adaptor. He is handy with machining tools as he has access to them at work. I am not aware of any one who makes an adaptor to purchase to complete this swap. I would think by the time you pay some one to make the adaptor, purchase the transmission and any other misc items you would be cheaper to buy a GV and put that behind a C6. Just my thoughts on it.

Jeff

[buckarooranch]

Thanks for the ideas. I have a note into GV to see if they have an application for the current drive train. When it's all said and done, that may be the easiest route, providing there is an application...and a small mortgage that will cover the cost.

They said my trans should be an NP435, like Scifi266 said. On mine, I can't find any tags or numbers that would give me something to reference, so I'll take your word for it. I would have like a little easier trans to shift, but hey, with the low granny gear the thing has, I should be able to move a small home...and keep the speeds down for the kid!

I'll let you know what GV writes back with. You folks have really been a great help! This may be cheaper than the first idea of transplanting a Cummins 4bt!

[bertha66]

Buckarooranch, just for thought, I used a toyota steering on my 66 F100 4x4. Let me know if you want any infro on that and I will send it to you.

[garbz2]

There is no way to install a GV along with a mated transfer case, A f100 4x4 is a mated trans and transfer cased unit. A F250 case is divorced and uses a propeller shaft to transfer the power from the trans to the transfer case.

I will most likely install a TKO500 in my 69 crew cab as a new TKO is as much as a used NV.

Garbz

[bigblockford_390]

Originally Posted by buckarooranch

They said my trans should be an NP435, like Scifi266 said. On mine, I can't find any tags or numbers that would give me something to reference,!

When you shift into reverse if you shift to the right and down into the seat it is a NP435. If you shift into reverse by shifting over to the right and up towards the dash then it is a T-18. Pretty easy way to tell the two apart.

Jeff

[buckarooranch]

Yea, I heard from GV and I am screwed with the setup I have for an O/D as my son tells me the shift pattern for reverse is over and down...NP435. The trans and case are mated. So this project may get easier as there is not much I can change. Of course, when I get a chance in the next couple of days, I will confirm everything.

I would love to hear about the Toyota steering. Years ago, the guy who put it together for my Dad, was a hack artist. The steering box he used was a late model Ford...something. I have worked hard to get the bump steer out of it, but it leaks like a sieve. I would love another option, as well as to put a tilt column in it to get more room and comfort behind the wheel.

Many thanks and I'll get back with more details!

[bertha66]

Buckarooranch, I was going to PM you with how to put on the Toyota box, but as of yet you do not have enough post to get PM's. I have had the Toyota box on the truck for 6-7 years. It has worked great, no leaks or problems of any kind. I get to use a smaller steering wheel and it drives very smooth. I'm disabled, and I chould not drive the truck for a long time until I put on the Toyota box. Cost at the time was less than $275.

[buckarooranch]

Wow, that sounds great! I think I mentioned that when my Dad had power steering put in the truck, the guy sourced a late model box from a junkyard from another Ford and it leaks like a sieve. I would like to hear more when we figure out how to do it.

For the rest of those who have been kind enough to throw in their thoughts...

I climbed under the truck yesterday and I have a mated case to the 4 spd transmission. So, I know that I am either:

a) stuck with the trans/case I have, or
b) figure out what trans/case I can go to.

I have seen sites on the web that have kits to put my AOD/case from my '86 Bronco behind the FE for just under a grand. My only question to them is, can the AOD hold up behind it? Obviously, they must be able to build it heavy enough and mine would have to be rebuilt/gone through before I put it in anyway.

I know my son would rather have the manual tranny, so if I kept the FE, I would need to figure out what trans/case setup to use if I can find any models that would work.

As I mentioned before, I originally sourced a 5.0/AOD/case from an '86 Bronco to use, but everyone tells me I would not be happy with it. The truck is fairly light and I figured I would get some decent performance from using the drivetrain as a whole, but evidently some feel the 5.0 would have to work too hard. It would be nice to have a little more room for exhaust, etc., too.

Well, so there you have it. I still don't quite know what to do!

[jowilker]

buckaroo, What is it about your truck that you love the most? Is it the 66 body style, the 4X4? what?

Fitting your truck body to a 4X4 chassis with the running engine, overdrive tranny, and power steering, is much less work than swapping and piece mealing one piece at a time like you are thinking.

I have beat and banged my way into old projects and now wonder why I had to do it the hard way.

Most guys are not going to be using their trucks for heavy hauling so maintaining the chassis down is not an issue. IMHO


John

[bertha66]

The one thing about changing the body to a newer frame, at lease here in Oregon, the title goes with the frame, not the body. So, if you put a 66 body on a 70's frame, you are subject to the laws of the 70's model truck. I do not know what the laws in Washington are, so you may want to check with your DMV.

[jowilker]

I'd grab a sawsall and move the number if it were mine. Or at least I'd consider it.


John

[buckarooranch]

Jowilker,

Here in WA, the title would most likely go with the body...or whatever is visible. I used to work for the Dept. of Licensing...and well, unless I say something, no one would ever know the difference.

I like the idea of swapping the body over, but finding a truck with only body damage and trying to made the body fit seems kind of daunting to me.

My Dad had the truck rebuilt several years ago, and it's a pretty nice looking rig he wanted to have his grandson drive. I don't think he would overly object to the idea of a body swap, but like I said, I have never done a swap like that and making the body fit the frame sounds like a pretty big deal...unless a more modern frame located isn't that much different. Do you know anyone who has done a swap like this on an older rig?

I wonder what the cost/headache difference would be? I guess by the time you add up an engine, tranny, etc., it may NOT be that much different.

It's definately worth investigating....

[jowilker]

Buck, Pretty much same here in NC. My truck is a Heinz 57 mutt, and the title # is F25 because that is what is on the door tag. The truck is a F100 with a different number on the chassis, that now hosts a FE, C6, PS, PDB, Twins, seat, stereo all from somewhere else since I have owned it.

Being a dip stick I took the title to the DMV Mall store, got my tags and it was months later when the difference was discovered. The truck has tags and insurance today, so I aint going to DMV Enforcement waving a flag. LOL

Garbz has done quite a bit of chassis conversion work and would be a excellent resource for advice.

I think the largest obstacle to most guys is lifting the mass. In 65 the 2wd trucks made a big change from 64 back. The 65 4wd is totally like the 64 back, and I am confused somewhat on the 66 4wd because I think it is a little mix and match. I am pretty sure that from 67 on to 79 the same chassis was used on both 2 & 4wd trucks.

The cab and front clip for the latter have the same mount points. It will require a special arrangement to lift the cab and clip because of it's mass but not because of it's weight. The cab and clip wont be much difference than a FE/C6 combo that I have lifted with a engine hoist. A strap through the doors and one around the radiator support will allow for a lift and the chassis can be rolled out and the new under.

There is some electrical and plumbing hookups, along with drive line control connections but most are minor concerns.

I really like the Slick body, and would love to have one on a 90s or newer chassis, and would not hesitate for a moment to try to mount one, if I was still as enthused as I was 10-15 years ago.


John

[bertha66]

The frames up to the mid 70's are all the same, but the later 70's trucks the wheel base cahanged something like 2", and I'm not sure of the years that are longer. The body would still bolt on,but there will be a gap between the cab and bed.