Before and After pics
#1
#5
That looks awesome. Did you paint this using spray cans both primer and paint, or did you use a spray gun? What tools did you use to sand it down with? Angle grinder and wire wheels, or what?
Also, I think you might have caffeine issues due to all the empty coca-cola cans on your workbench.
Also, I think you might have caffeine issues due to all the empty coca-cola cans on your workbench.
#6
#7
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: northwestern Ontario
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#8
Thanks for the kind words and encouragement. I used a 4'' wire wheel on an angle grinder and a 1/2 wheel on a drill. The rest was with a wire brush. The paint is the Eastwood system topcoated with four coats of flat black Rustoleum applied with the gun.The axels and springs were primed with rustoleum metal reformer, rusty metal primer and topcoated with Valspar semi flat tractor enamel. (rattle can)
As far as the caffine addiction your right! If were barley pops I wouldn't be half this far but I might have had more fun
As far as the caffine addiction your right! If were barley pops I wouldn't be half this far but I might have had more fun
#9
#10
So that's what my 1960 is going to look like when I pull it apart next month Your hard work and effort turned out great! I found a local company with an oven large enough to powder coat my entire frame, so I'm going to take the easy way out and let them sand blast and coat the frame for me I'm curious why your truck has a center drive shaft bearing? My 1960 truck has a slip yoke up front and no center bearing.
I'm looking at replacing my front springs (sagging). What source did you use for your springs, and how close do they match your originals?
I'm looking at replacing my front springs (sagging). What source did you use for your springs, and how close do they match your originals?
#12
I mght have the center bearing because it's a 4 speed on the floor hooked up to a 223. Maybe somebody else with a little more knowlege can chime in here. It has the slip yoke behind the bearing. I kept my original front springs and just rebushed them. The rear springs had some broken leafs so I replaced them with a set off a '64 from the bone yard. The rear end seems to sit a little higher even tho the newer ones are 6 leaf and the old were 7 leaf.
#14
I was getting some local estimates to have my frame sandblasted and then powder coated Gloss black for b/w $500-$700. Does that sound reasonable, or is that a crazy price?
I think I want to sand and paint it myself, but they would have the frame done in 5-7 days instead of me spending months of sanding, priming, and painting. Choices, choices.
I think I want to sand and paint it myself, but they would have the frame done in 5-7 days instead of me spending months of sanding, priming, and painting. Choices, choices.
#15
I was getting some local estimates to have my frame sandblasted and then powder coated Gloss black for b/w $500-$700. Does that sound reasonable, or is that a crazy price?
I think I want to sand and paint it myself, but they would have the frame done in 5-7 days instead of me spending months of sanding, priming, and painting. Choices, choices.
I think I want to sand and paint it myself, but they would have the frame done in 5-7 days instead of me spending months of sanding, priming, and painting. Choices, choices.
A little piece of advice here... If you are really hung on blowing the cash for the powder coat, be sure to remove all the sharp edges which include the edges along the top and bottom of the total length of the frame. The electrostatic deposition process causes the buildup to be vey thin on a sharp edge or sharp right angle and it will start peeling there if any rust gets started. I have had several powder coated pieces that are exposed and that is what happened. It's like watching your money go up in smoke.
Later Man...