Winter temps, coolant, Cold fronts and thermostats....A fire Side chat....
#16
Maybe I should consider moving South. We only had one day in January that got above freezing. I don't ever remember it being this cold consistantly.
AccuWeather.com Past Month Weather Data for Marshalltown, IA
I have my electric bill sitting on the counter aswell for last month... I kinda don't want to open it now after looking at last months temperatures. Ouch!
Anyways back to the topic. I think there is some differences that would make a winterfront beneficial. Guys that are running intercoolers probably wouldn't see as much difference because they already have some air flow blockage?
AccuWeather.com Past Month Weather Data for Marshalltown, IA
I have my electric bill sitting on the counter aswell for last month... I kinda don't want to open it now after looking at last months temperatures. Ouch!
Anyways back to the topic. I think there is some differences that would make a winterfront beneficial. Guys that are running intercoolers probably wouldn't see as much difference because they already have some air flow blockage?
#17
#19
At this time of the year i have the grill closed off.
Cheap old cardboard. With the E-series it gets alot
of air flow thru the bumper. There is also an OEM
pan that seals off the bottom of the bumper to the rad.
With the grill closed off my trans temps are 140/160*
Open grill trans temps are way to cold with mods for summer use.
Bill
Cheap old cardboard. With the E-series it gets alot
of air flow thru the bumper. There is also an OEM
pan that seals off the bottom of the bumper to the rad.
With the grill closed off my trans temps are 140/160*
Open grill trans temps are way to cold with mods for summer use.
Bill
#21
No Joe.
I have mods to the system for cooling in summer. IE: larger cooler ect.
They tend to overcool come winter.
At this time of the year the rad is warmed by the oil and trans.
If i open the grill the TFT and EOT temps fall.
Bill
I have mods to the system for cooling in summer. IE: larger cooler ect.
They tend to overcool come winter.
At this time of the year the rad is warmed by the oil and trans.
If i open the grill the TFT and EOT temps fall.
Bill
#23
My 97 gets driven much more than my 02. That said, I have not noticed any difference where the temp gauge sits while driving. It is a fairly heavy truck, 12,500lbs, so it has a load everytime I turn the key. Now sitting and idling, the temp gauge will drop when it's real cold out, but as soon as I get moving, it jumps back up to the same spot, wether it's 0 outside, or 100.
At 0, the tranny gauge barely moves off the 100 degree mark unless I'm in city traffic.
At 0, the tranny gauge barely moves off the 100 degree mark unless I'm in city traffic.
#24
I have run with and without grill plugs and I see no difference. I have also had an 8' plow on the front most winters and even with that blocking the flow through the bumber I see no difference on the factory gage. This is true even when running down to -40 It takes a little longer to wam up but the extra drag on the drive train almost makes up for it
#25
well i have really only had one day of real cold weather to give this a shot!!
mine would only run about 160 (got digital gauge) was drving only about 45 the 30 miles to work on a inch of ice. put the poster board behind the grill and came right up to 203 . i think some of it is there is so much air flow across the block that with that light load and cold and wet temps make it real hard to come to temp, i have been leaving a smaller peice in the winter to help warmup temps. i have swapped 203 stats thinkin ane was sticking but came out with same numbers. my truck normally runs 230 on the gauge in the summer with ac on and hauling. but i think my gauge sender is somewhat to blame when i swapped gauges nothing else was done to truck and factory gauge showed in the middle
mine would only run about 160 (got digital gauge) was drving only about 45 the 30 miles to work on a inch of ice. put the poster board behind the grill and came right up to 203 . i think some of it is there is so much air flow across the block that with that light load and cold and wet temps make it real hard to come to temp, i have been leaving a smaller peice in the winter to help warmup temps. i have swapped 203 stats thinkin ane was sticking but came out with same numbers. my truck normally runs 230 on the gauge in the summer with ac on and hauling. but i think my gauge sender is somewhat to blame when i swapped gauges nothing else was done to truck and factory gauge showed in the middle
#26
The PSD's cooling is plenty oversized.
Running a winter front changes the efficiency of the cooling system.
It drops its ability to cool. The BTU rating falls. You run much warmer
return line temps. Run your truck with and without a front. Check your lower hose temp. With the front it will be much warmer. The T-stat is a throttle for coolant flow.
A good example is take a hanging hydronic heater. Lets say the coil is 180*.
It could sit for weeks on end at 180* and never heat the space. Turn the blower on and bingo the space is heated. Its all about the air crossing the coil
or rad in the trucks case. The BTU's have changed.
The way diesels make heat is with fuel. You give it more fuel and it makes more heat, as less fuel is less heat. Heat is nothing more than wasted converted energy.
Many variables in why one truck runs cooler than another.
One might need a winter front while the other does not.
The variables are from bumper to bumper with the addition of driver a loads.
Its a big list. EX: gear ratio, tune of motor, condition of fuel system, type of fuel, auto trans, lubes, how much the rad is clogged (road debris) ect. The list goes on and on. The splitshot motor has a harder time making and maintaining heat vs. a singleshot motor.
My van happens to be a splitshot motor. I run a winter front to help control
fluid temps. I can tell you this. I can make and maintain heat in the coolant
in cold temps without the winter front. I just have to turn up the fuel.
Cost per mile goes up. The added drag from the winter front does not compare to the turn up of the fuel.
Joe
You are going to run a realtime scan.
Run this test. Drive at 45mph in OD and get the fuel desired flow (M and V).
Then run again at 45mph with OD off. Get the same data.
You will see its a big differance in how it fuels. The truck will burn less fuel
and make less heat with OD off with the motor running at a higher rpm.
Bill
Running a winter front changes the efficiency of the cooling system.
It drops its ability to cool. The BTU rating falls. You run much warmer
return line temps. Run your truck with and without a front. Check your lower hose temp. With the front it will be much warmer. The T-stat is a throttle for coolant flow.
A good example is take a hanging hydronic heater. Lets say the coil is 180*.
It could sit for weeks on end at 180* and never heat the space. Turn the blower on and bingo the space is heated. Its all about the air crossing the coil
or rad in the trucks case. The BTU's have changed.
The way diesels make heat is with fuel. You give it more fuel and it makes more heat, as less fuel is less heat. Heat is nothing more than wasted converted energy.
Many variables in why one truck runs cooler than another.
One might need a winter front while the other does not.
The variables are from bumper to bumper with the addition of driver a loads.
Its a big list. EX: gear ratio, tune of motor, condition of fuel system, type of fuel, auto trans, lubes, how much the rad is clogged (road debris) ect. The list goes on and on. The splitshot motor has a harder time making and maintaining heat vs. a singleshot motor.
My van happens to be a splitshot motor. I run a winter front to help control
fluid temps. I can tell you this. I can make and maintain heat in the coolant
in cold temps without the winter front. I just have to turn up the fuel.
Cost per mile goes up. The added drag from the winter front does not compare to the turn up of the fuel.
Joe
You are going to run a realtime scan.
Run this test. Drive at 45mph in OD and get the fuel desired flow (M and V).
Then run again at 45mph with OD off. Get the same data.
You will see its a big differance in how it fuels. The truck will burn less fuel
and make less heat with OD off with the motor running at a higher rpm.
Bill
#28
#29
#30
Its converting more energy into heat.
You can also see it in the first cold run of the day.
It will take longer for the truck to come up to opt temp
runnng with the OD off at the that current on or about speeds.
Bill