Ok, the po told me he's had lots of trouble with broken tensioners. I have read up what I can find here on the subject. Mine came apart yesterday just two days after I replaced the thermostat. The truck came with a spare belt and tensioner, so I got them on. Yhe old belt is a napa 061120 and the new one is a 61115. In removing and working with both, they seem really tight, and the tensioner has to be forced against it's stop to stretch on a new belt. Anybody have the correct napa number or length? Nana says it depends on the alternator.... My alt pulley is 2.5 dia inside the shoulders. They gave a number that ended with 30, which is about 113" and some change. I also read that belts come off if it's too loose. thanks in advance

 

i have 3 extra belts for mine its a 94 turbo but they are the same belt.and the part number i have is 5061115 they are armor mark and they replace
gates #k061115
dayco# 5061115
goodyear#4061115
canda# 1115k6
hope this helps if ya need a belt let me know ill send one to ya.your in washington as well so you would get it in about 3 days.i got them for free from another guy on here so if i can help another guy out its not a problem.if your having an issue with breaking tensioners i would make sure its all in stalled right there should be a guide pin you have to line up on it.and make sure the pulleys are lining up good as well.let me know if ya need some help

 

Thanks very much, but I think those all are about 111 1/2" long. Mine seems to need one about 113". I have the one that is 111 7/8" and one is 112 1/8" ... Both require the tensioner to be forced very hard against it's stop just to get a belt started. Maybe that's why the PO had so much trouble with tensioners. Napa shows the correct one to be 113 plus a bit. I'm just glad it didnt overheat past the top of the 'normal' zone before I noticed the belt was off....The guy at Napa said my correct one ends in '30'. I need to get this figured out. Anybody have the correct Napa # for this truck? I have been fixing stuff on my new old truck for 9 days straight, ever since work in my cabinet shop got slow. ....... Never had so much fun so easy to work on compared to '02 I just sold. Every morning I get up and work on this truck all day, like til 6 at night.

 

Got a pic of the tensioner....... there are several different ones.

When replacing the belt....... it should just slip under the vacuum pump pulley when the tensioner is bottomed out......

 

1992/93 F250/350 Super Duty 7.3L

~ Motorcraft Part Numbers ~

JK6-1113-A = 111.3" long

JK6-1136-A = 113.6" long / Use with Leece-Neville alternator.

 

Thanks so much for the info. I guess it's just a tight fit getting the belt on. On my tensioner, it's the pot metal hub that gives out. It is very thin at the outside face surrounding where the recess is for the mounting bolt. I'd like to come up with a 'keeper' that was like a fender washer welded to an allen head bolt. A nut could be tacked to the long allen bolt to replace the bolt head at the bottom of the recess which secures the body. I'll keep messing with it and post a photo if I come up with something. To me it just isn't right to expect a part to fail every 6 months (at exactly the wrong time) and just replace it over and over again. Anybody solved this dilemma. My Napa guy says he's sold 15 tensioners in the last 4 years or so. I live on an island with a pop. of 4500 people, and I didn't think there were many IDIs here.