Broken exhaust manifold studs ?????
#1
Broken exhaust manifold studs ?????
Has anyone had an issue with broken exhaust manifold studs ??
I have a 2000 V-10. It started leaking exuast, due to a bad gasket. I was going to change the gasket and noticed it has 3 broken studs.
Has anyone done the repair themselves. How difficult was it. How about cost at a Ford dealer. Any one with an experience to share ????
I have a 2000 V-10. It started leaking exuast, due to a bad gasket. I was going to change the gasket and noticed it has 3 broken studs.
Has anyone done the repair themselves. How difficult was it. How about cost at a Ford dealer. Any one with an experience to share ????
#5
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#7
Some break off level with the manifold surface and some level with the
the head. The new studs are stainless steel with copper coating according
to ford dealer. The nuts on the old ones rusted away. The local garage
wouldn't give me and estimate on the job. The Ford dealer wouldn't either.
I had the Ford dealer do it because the had done several others.
the head. The new studs are stainless steel with copper coating according
to ford dealer. The nuts on the old ones rusted away. The local garage
wouldn't give me and estimate on the job. The Ford dealer wouldn't either.
I had the Ford dealer do it because the had done several others.
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#8
My local Ford dealer quoted a range, $500 - $800 per side. As far as I know I only have one side bad.
A friend told me he routes a duct from the front bumper area to the manifold to blow cooling air over the manifold. Says it stopped the breaking stud issue on his truck. He pulls a big camper through the mountains. Figures it was a excess heat issue causing the stud failure.
FYI, if a stud breaks off flush with the head, rather than trying to drill it out, which is not easy to do, try welding a nut to the top of the broken stud. The weld will not stick to the aluminum (or cast iron for that fact), and the heat tends to loosen the grip on the stud.
A friend told me he routes a duct from the front bumper area to the manifold to blow cooling air over the manifold. Says it stopped the breaking stud issue on his truck. He pulls a big camper through the mountains. Figures it was a excess heat issue causing the stud failure.
FYI, if a stud breaks off flush with the head, rather than trying to drill it out, which is not easy to do, try welding a nut to the top of the broken stud. The weld will not stick to the aluminum (or cast iron for that fact), and the heat tends to loosen the grip on the stud.
#9
Im doing the manifold on my 2001 f250 5.4 and they came out easy with patience. Had 4 broken on pass side and while taking them out, snapped one, but was able to drill and use a stud remover to turn it out. Im doing the valve cover gaskets while I have it all apart under the fenders. Gaskets and studs came out to 300 dollars and the dealer had a bad modem when I asked for a quote. LOL.
#11
I did the job myself. I removed the inner fender wells and had pretty good access. I had 4 broken on one side and 5 on the other. I replaced all the studs as long as I was in there. The Ford parts guy told me that the studs are now made from a "special", "improved" alloy, and both the studs and the nuts had been "re-designed".
I am an engineer by trade, I can tell you that short studs, set in aluminum, clamping very hot iron is a joint waiting to fail.
However, I have towed several heavy loads over several hundred miles since the repair, and have not had a stud failure, but every time I pull a trailer up a hill with the tach at 4000 RPM I wonder how those studs are doing.
Next time, I'm trading it in.
I am an engineer by trade, I can tell you that short studs, set in aluminum, clamping very hot iron is a joint waiting to fail.
However, I have towed several heavy loads over several hundred miles since the repair, and have not had a stud failure, but every time I pull a trailer up a hill with the tach at 4000 RPM I wonder how those studs are doing.
Next time, I'm trading it in.
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