The four speed transmission shift pattern will determine if it is synchromesh. If it shifts way right and forward into reverse then you have the synchronized tranny (T98). If reverse is way right and back then it is the spur gear crash box.

 

I would've used a search bar on this forum if there was one. But I do agree, there are only a few "real" threads that actually go around. I think a lot of it has to do with the lack of a general source to go to for this kind of technical help. I usually type in a certain problem in a Google search engine and try and go from there, but I usually find it easier to ask some forum people, and then try to offer as much as I can in other areas. Problem is is that I don't know enough.

And thanks for the information, I'm doing the copy paste and saving it to my archives of power. I was hoping it was a synchronized tranny, but, looks like it isn't. Got to get used to double clutching now...

And looks like when the money comes pouring in, like it always does I'll be all over those manuals and books.

 

Hey! Found the search bar just now.....DUH!!!

 

Hey Dumptrucker! That is excellant to know! Always some new valuable tidbit of info at FTE! Thanks

 

Well, the final steps are being taken and the truck is ready to go BUT!!! I ran into something that is a cause for concern.

So, I bought a battery charger 6/12v, and hooked up my dead battery. (I don't know why, but that was one of the most happy moments I have ever had while working on this truck, charging the battery). However, when I hooked it up at the beginning, I figured. Well, why not see if it starts? That way I wont have to wait 6 hours to try starting it. But, (with the air cleaner off but the housing on), it backfired pretty severely through the air intake, and frankly, scared me.

I want to know if this is something I should watch out for, as I have never seen anything backfire out of the air intake before. I mean, there's no spark in there right? So why would anything backfire? Also, for safety, I obviously don't want to blow myself up.

I'd just like to know what this could possibly be, and if it was just a one time thing that old trucks do when they fire. Maybe like a build up of excess carbon in the intake or something.

 

It likely is firing on a open intake valve. It could be a valve is stuck open or the plug wires are crossed or firing between plug wiring. It is also possible yo have dumped so much fuel down the carb it pooled in the intake manifold and blew up back through the carb.
If the intake valve is open and the spark plug fires the explosion will come back out the carb since it is the path of least resistance.
Larry

 

Do you think this might be an appropriate time to ask you if you aren't really glad you weren't standing over at the gas tank, compressor hose in hand and venting gas vapors?

Lots of good suggestions as to why this happened. If that valve is stuck, you might want to turn your engine through a couple revolutions by hand to make sure you don't have any interference. Then unplug the coil wire and turn it over until the oil pressure comes up and lubes everything.

Believe me, patience here may save you a LOT of grief.

J!

Ps Husker's made a good point below. Have a COTTON terry cloth towel, soaking wet and ready, and if you get a flair up, you can gently lay it flat over the top of the carb and it will smother any flame. (tee hee - now you're terrified - poor guy)

 

I've had to use starting fluid on a couple of my trucks in the past and have had them do that. Also, if the carb leaks a little or if it is flooded and then fires, sometimes you will get the backfire.

I would have something handy to cover the carb with if it does it and catches the gas in the carb on fire to smother it out. Maybe a lid or something like heavy denim cloth. Don't use anything that is polyester or synthetic because it will burn easy.

Also, for safety have a fire extinguisher. I have one in all my old vehicles. I don't want to have my project or pride and joy burn to the ground because I didn't have a way to put a carb fire out. I don't really want to use one because they make a heck of a mess, but that is better than a burned up vehicle or worse yet a burned down garage or house.

 

Well, thanks for the carb info. I used Marvel Mystery Oil to get the engine lubed up, and it seems like it's nice smooth now. Well, actually it's hard to tell.

So, I charged the battery, got really excited, and turned the engine. Nothing but cranking. So, I figured, I may have flooded it. So, I waited a few hours and tried again. Nothing. Seems like I have no spark now!! Grr, this is getting a little frustrating. Also, the carb is a little leaky (seems like the screws aren't tight enough), but by that point, I gave up for the day. I'm going to have to tighten up the screws on the carb and try to get spark going again. I'm wondering where the spark went because I had spark two days ago, and now, nothing.

Well see what happens.

P.S. Is it also possible that my carb is sucking in too much gas? I have a quart sized gas tank, and maybe after a few minutes of trying to start it, it was over half empty.

 

Never start a car with the air cleaner off! After it starts, you can pull it off. It will snuff a backfire very quickly and prevent a carb fire.

By the way, a backfire like that probably blew out the power valve in the carb...more good news. You should still be able to get it started, but expect it to run rich -- don't choke it.

 

That's a good point Ross and it will snuf any fire. But, this is one of the rare times I will disagree with you, a little, and I think it's just because of what we have been taught.

The other side of the coin is if you remove the air filter when the engine is running, if there is any dirt on it (an oil bath?) It'll get sucked into the carb and engine. Not to mention Murphy standing behind you trying to get you to drop that wing nut in there too.

Pro's and cons - up to the owner.

J!

 

I typically started all of my cars with the air cleaner off before. Now, to prevent fire, I'll probably keep it on.

I am picking up a new coil (bangs head against the wall), as I suspect it's the culprit. I have heard of a lot of guys with old Ford tractors suddenly lose spark due to the coil, and mine's original from 1952, so it's probably dead. The cap and rotor are new, so I doubt they are the problem and the distributor was replaced recently as well.

I am putting too much money into this truck!!! Oh well, it'll be worth it when it's running for the first time. Right?

Also, I am thinking of getting another rebuild kit for the carb. I don't want to be fiddling with a busted carb, if that's the case. (Bangs head against the wall again.). I just want a running truck.

Then, I have been wondering if there is an option to mount the single barrel carburetor on here, or if there's an option for a more fuel efficient carb that I can use for this truck. Gas mileage isn't my biggest concern, but I wonldn't mind sacrificing some power for mileage at this point since I wont be pouring in massive amounts of money into this truck after I get it functional. I don't have a lot of money anyway.

 

Hey John Smith Jr. Do you remember when I told you that someday after working on your truck for a time, YOU would be the guy offering up the answers instead of asking the questions?

This may be the door opening right here!

"I'm going battie with this flattie" Mr. John Smith Jr.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...s-flattie.html

This is almost an exact duplicate of Johns "Trek"

Julie

 

Oh my, is this what's ahead of me?! Haha, a lot of the problems he's been talking about look like mine obviously.

Oh geez, I may end up selling it as it and buy something else.

Hopefully though, after a break today, it'll work. Cross fingers. I've eliminated a lot of the possible problems though, so it's likely I'll be able to get the truck going. (Famous last words). Thanks for all of your help guys and gals. I'll post an update today.

 

1=2
Learn to do a good job troubleshooting your issue instead of throwing new parts on the truck. A lot of time the problem is easy to find if you just check one thing at a time and not jump around throwing money away buying parts you may or may not need and many of the new parts are inferior to the old ones your removing since they are made off shore. If your not getting fire, just start at plugs and back up the wiring till you get fire and in between is the trouble. Your new points could be bad or not set properly and have closed or not opening. Your coil wire not seated in coil or cap or coil end corroded.
If your short of money (and now who isn't) try to be positive the part your replacing will cure the issue and not make new one by replacing a good part with a bad new one. It took 5 new sets of points for my 46 mercury to get one good set that would test out right on my distributor machine. The others had weak springs and would "float" at 2000 rpm of less causing loss of power.
Many on here would help lead you step by step on how to check out your firing issue from battery to spark plugs and all points in between to find your trouble.
Good luck.
Larry