I'm assuming it will work but can the power supply from the brake lights be enough to operate the EBPV?

 

if not, you could always add a relay in line. I don't know anything about this, so I do not know what the current draw would be on the EBPV
I run a T4 setup so i haven't had an EBPV in over 10 yrs but it would be nice to have an exhaust brake; especially for towing. However I thought those created issues of their own on these trucks. I guess I would have to look into it

 

I did the EBPV mod on a switch and wasn't very impressed with it's 'braking' performance.
I was also advised that it was detrimental to an automatic transmission, so I removed it.

I have since deleted the EBPV due to leaks and not living in the super cold anymore.

 

If I recall correctly it was switched ground, not power. It's been a while though....

 

If you have a automatic you need a TC lockup switch also so TC locks up and actually slows it back some instead of free wheeling. Don't have that problem with manual trans.

 

Wouldn’t that mean that the valve would be closed while you are stilling in traffic? I can see the application but I am not sure it would be desirable in all driving applications.

 

It also take a couple seconds for it to engage. So by the time it's engaged your brakes are doing most the work so won't get much benefit. The best way to do it is tie it into the idle validation switch at the accelerator pedal so whenever pedal is let off it engages it. Like coasting down a hill with no throttle it engages the exhaust brake. Then of course have a switch to arm it so you can turn it off when you don't want it. Pretty simple to do this way also. Just need a switch and a relay.

 

Thats how I had mine wired, I also had the torque converter wired with a switch and a pickup from the speed sensor so it would automatically disengage at or below 20mph.

 

Thanks for the replies, this was a "what if" idea, looks like it ain't worth it and now that some of you posted the negatives of the idea makes more sense to do it the right way.

Thanks again.

 

Just wire it up to a switch on the dash. I have a 4.88 geared 550 and it was only any good above 2500 rpm as an exhaust brake and it did make a difference but not enough to want to live with the oil leak that it developed a few years later. Bought a delete pedastal somewhere, installed it and moved on in life. I don't go up and down enough mountain passes to make it worth the trouble.

 

If ya got a Hydra, DP sells the deceleration tune for it. Locks the TC & applies the EBPV, I have it on two positions, one between the two tow tunes I use & again between my daily driver tune & performance/play tune, so I can engage it easily anytime I want.