I have a 93 e150 with the I6 that has about 260k miles.
It had a problem with the fuel pump and would not start at all. Fuel pump was replaced and all was well.... for a while.

Now it will not start after you drive it for 20 to 30 mins and then let it sit for 10 min. It cranks fine and then will start after it cools off for about 15 to 20 min.
It is acting like vapor lock or some sort of fuel problem.
How do I check for fuel pressure? The problem is so intermitent that the mechanic is having a tough time replicating it.
This is a real PITA. It will not start after you fill up at the gas station, or run into the hardware store or get a coffee etc.
But it will start and run fine after it sits and cools.

Any ideas woud be great.

 

Does this have a TFI module on the distributor? If so, it sounds like a failing TFI ignition module.

 

Sounds like ignition to me also. Coils that are failing like to open up when they get hot before they end up opening up for the last time when they die! Are you getting spark when you are cranking it trying to start?

 

So I will check for spark next. If no spark then how do you check the TFI module.
I have never had a coil go bad but there is always a first. How do you check the coil?
Thanks,
George

 

Ford Ranger/Bronco II TFI Ignition Diagnostics

Try poking around on that site a bit.

 

Ford Ranger/Bronco II TFI Ignition Diagnostics Some info on hot starting troubles there.

 

If no spark then it's the coil. Otherwise, I would suspect the pickup coil in the distributor.

 

Ok, I had this EXACT problem with my 95 I6 last summer. Drove fine, let it sit, and would not start. Yes, mine would vapor lock. Turns out my AIR tube was junk, and was blowing hot exhaust gasses right onto the fuel rail at 4 different spots. At the same time, the heat wrap around my EGR tube decayed away, leaving bare pipe. Temps around the fuel rail at the rear of my engine were getting up to 250*. Heated everything up at the rear of the engine bay to the point it baked all the paint off the side/top of the valve cover. Removed the AIR pipe (Yes, i know, VERY bad idea) and re-wraped the EGR tube down to the manifold, and havnt had a problem since.