front cab corner/ door pillar pictures needed
#1
front cab corner/ door pillar pictures needed
Hey guys I need do some panel repair work on my 55 f100. Areas including the lower front cab corner, lower door pillar / hinge area and front part of the rocker. What i'm looking for is a picture of someones truck with the cab corner cowl panel removed so I can see what it should look like with the inner structure exposed. Or maybe a drawing from a factory service manual. I can see daylight thru the hinge pocket so I know something not too good is comming soon.
Thanks in advance,
Rick
Thanks in advance,
Rick
#2
Rick - Mine's a 56, but the inner guts should be similar, if not identical. Here's a pic of the cab corner removed:
A closeup of the lower hinge bucket:
The entire gallery of how I replaced mine: https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=23764
My rocker and door jamb were in good shape, so I'm not a lot of help there.
Good luck.
A closeup of the lower hinge bucket:
The entire gallery of how I replaced mine: https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=23764
My rocker and door jamb were in good shape, so I'm not a lot of help there.
Good luck.
#3
#4
rdemilt:
just to tell "the rest of the story", Per Sy at MF: The reason the replacement panel has two holes in the middle of it is because the OEM panel they sent overseas to be used as the pattern had been drilled for one of the earlier radio antennas that bolted to the side of the cowl with two standoffs. Sy forgot to tell them that those holes were not original. The stampers were so diligent about matching the original panel they punched in those antenna mounting holes in all the panels!
Filling them will produce a shrinkage dimple. You could hammer stretch the dimple back out, fill it over as RJ did, or what I would recommend is to drill them out to 5/8 or 3/4" with a step drill, cut a plug disk from matching sheet metal and butt weld it in with a series of 1/2" tacks, waiting for the weld and panel to completely cool after each tack.
If you back it all with a plate of copper or aluminum as a heat sink while welding, and are patient enough to allow it to air cool (DON'T force cool it with air or water!) you should have a minimal amount of shrinkage to deal with.
just to tell "the rest of the story", Per Sy at MF: The reason the replacement panel has two holes in the middle of it is because the OEM panel they sent overseas to be used as the pattern had been drilled for one of the earlier radio antennas that bolted to the side of the cowl with two standoffs. Sy forgot to tell them that those holes were not original. The stampers were so diligent about matching the original panel they punched in those antenna mounting holes in all the panels!
Filling them will produce a shrinkage dimple. You could hammer stretch the dimple back out, fill it over as RJ did, or what I would recommend is to drill them out to 5/8 or 3/4" with a step drill, cut a plug disk from matching sheet metal and butt weld it in with a series of 1/2" tacks, waiting for the weld and panel to completely cool after each tack.
If you back it all with a plate of copper or aluminum as a heat sink while welding, and are patient enough to allow it to air cool (DON'T force cool it with air or water!) you should have a minimal amount of shrinkage to deal with.
#6
Cab corners
In my picture gallery it shows the work done on the cab corners. You my want to check out the attaching brackets under the cab floor also. All parts are out in many f100 parts catalogs. The brackets that hold the doors on are another rusty area of concern. I had to cut the door brackets out, floor pans, cab corners, rocker panels, and weld all new back in. This is allot of work but in the end the cab is solid. I also found that BeeBops will sell fiberglass doors, my doors were rusted at the bottom. I hope this helps you out. Tim
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