The fuel filters come in a set that includes the smaller (upper or secondary) filter, the larger (lower or primary or HFCM) filter, and new o-rings:
FUEL Filters:
OEM 3C3Z-9N184-CA
Motorcraft FD-4604
IH 1847170C93
It is always a good idea to change both fuel filters (primary and secondary) at the same time (IMO).
Tools / Parts –
Small fuel filter takes a 24 mm or 15/16 inch socket
Replacement fuel filter and o-ring (part #’s above) – filter comes as part of a fuel filter kit, along with the lower (HFCM) fuel filter and o-rings.
Turkey baster to remove the fuel in the filter bowl
Container to place the fuel in for disposal (or you can filter it through a funnel using a tight weave cloth and re-use it)
Trash sack for the old fuel filter
Some oil to lubricate the new o-ring
Procedure:
1. Remove fuel filter “end cap”. Use a 15/16 inch socket (or 24 mm socket). Note - If you do not have one of these sockets, you can use a ˝ inch square drive ratchet – preferable to have an “offset flex head - teardrop” ratchet to keep your knuckles away from any obstructions. Insert the ˝ inch square drive of the ratchet into the filter cap and remove the cap. Some folks have experienced breakage of the cap using the ratchet by itself, therefore, use of the socket is recommended.
2. Remove the old o-ring from the filter “end cap” and dispose of it (diesel fuel is hard on rubber components).
3. Remove the fuel filter
4. Remove excess fuel from housing with turkey baster. The fuel in the filter bowl could have some contaminants in it so it is best to remove the fuel. You can either dispose of the fuel or, some people filter it through a tight weave cloth in a funnel, into a quart container, and then pour it back into the fuel tank.
NOTE – if you are going to change the Primary Fuel Filter (or HFCM), it is a good time to do so now. Refer to the “HFCM Filter Change and Fuel/Water Separator Drain Procedure”:http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/80...lter-hfcm.html
5. Slide the new fuel cap o-ring into position (just above the threads on the “end cap”).
6. Lightly lubricate the o-ring with oil.
7. Insert the new secondary fuel filter (small filter in kit) into fuel filter housing.
8. Re-attach fuel filter “end cap” (with new o-ring) back onto the filter housing. Torque the cap to 14 Nm using a 15/16 inch socket or 1/2 inch square drive. Warning: Tightening beyond torque specs will crack reusable oil filter cap.
9. After any fuel filter change, remove air before starting:
Three cycles of: “ignition on for 3 sec”, “ignition off for 15 sec”
Then ignition off for 3 seconds and START
The fuel filters come in a set that includes the smaller (upper or secondary) filter, the larger (lower or primary or HFCM) filter, and new o-rings:
FUEL Filters:
OEM 3C3Z-9N184-CA
Motorcraft FD-4604
IH 1847170C93
It is always a good idea to change both fuel filters (primary and secondary) at the same time (IMO).
Tools / Parts
Small fuel filter takes a 24 mm or 15/16 inch socket
Replacement fuel filter and o-ring (part #s above) filter comes as part of a fuel filter kit, along with the lower (HFCM) fuel filter and o-rings.
Turkey baster to remove the fuel in the filter bowl
Container to place the fuel in for disposal (or you can filter it through a funnel using a tight weave cloth and re-use it)
Trash sack for the old fuel filter
Some oil to lubricate the new o-ring
Procedure:
1. Remove fuel filter end cap. Use a 15/16 inch socket (or 24 mm socket). Note - If you do not have one of these sockets, you can use a ˝ inch square drive ratchet preferable to have an offset flex head - teardrop ratchet to keep your knuckles away from any obstructions. Insert the ˝ inch square drive of the ratchet into the filter cap and remove the cap. Some folks have experienced breakage of the cap using the ratchet by itself, therefore, use of the socket is recommended.
2. Remove the old o-ring from the filter end cap and dispose of it (diesel fuel is hard on rubber components).
3. Remove the fuel filter
4. Remove excess fuel from housing with turkey baster. The fuel in the filter bowl could have some contaminants in it so it is best to remove the fuel. You can either dispose of the fuel or, some people filter it through a tight weave cloth in a funnel, into a quart container, and then pour it back into the fuel tank.
NOTE if you are going to change the Primary Fuel Filter (or HFCM), it is a good time to do so now. Refer to the HFCM Filter Change and Fuel/Water Separator Drain Procedure:http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/80...lter-hfcm.html
5. Slide the new fuel cap o-ring into position (just above the threads on the end cap).
6. Lightly lubricate the o-ring with oil.
7. Insert the new secondary fuel filter (small filter in kit) into fuel filter housing.
8. Re-attach fuel filter end cap (with new o-ring) back onto the filter housing. Torque the cap to 14 Nm using a 15/16 inch socket or 1/2 inch square drive. Warning: Tightening beyond torque specs will crack reusable oil filter cap.
9. After any fuel filter change, remove air before starting:
Three cycles of: ignition on for 3 sec, ignition off for 15 sec
Then ignition off for 3 seconds and START
I think that you should add the fact that once the filter is replaced, before you put the cap back on, fill the cylinder back up with new diesel fuel. I did everything exactly as you described and once I cranked my truck up, I let it idol for a little while and after about 30 seconds it started sputtering and almost shut off for lack of fuel. I got back under the hood and took the cap back off and there was very little fuel in the upper filter housing, even after all of the priming to get the air out. Found this out after I called a local oil changing shop.
The fuel filters come in a set that includes the smaller (upper or secondary) filter, the larger (lower or primary or HFCM) filter, and new o-rings:
FUEL Filters:
OEM 3C3Z-9N184-CA
Motorcraft FD-4604
IH 1847170C93
It is always a good idea to change both fuel filters (primary and secondary) at the same time (IMO).
Tools / Parts
Small fuel filter takes a 24 mm or 15/16 inch socket
Replacement fuel filter and o-ring (part #s above) filter comes as part of a fuel filter kit, along with the lower (HFCM) fuel filter and o-rings.
Turkey baster to remove the fuel in the filter bowl
Container to place the fuel in for disposal (or you can filter it through a funnel using a tight weave cloth and re-use it)
Trash sack for the old fuel filter
Some oil to lubricate the new o-ring
Procedure:
1. Remove fuel filter end cap. Use a 15/16 inch socket (or 24 mm socket). Note - If you do not have one of these sockets, you can use a ˝ inch square drive ratchet preferable to have an offset flex head - teardrop ratchet to keep your knuckles away from any obstructions. Insert the ˝ inch square drive of the ratchet into the filter cap and remove the cap. Some folks have experienced breakage of the cap using the ratchet by itself, therefore, use of the socket is recommended.
2. Remove the old o-ring from the filter end cap and dispose of it (diesel fuel is hard on rubber components).
3. Remove the fuel filter
4. Remove excess fuel from housing with turkey baster. The fuel in the filter bowl could have some contaminants in it so it is best to remove the fuel. You can either dispose of the fuel or, some people filter it through a tight weave cloth in a funnel, into a quart container, and then pour it back into the fuel tank.
NOTE if you are going to change the Primary Fuel Filter (or HFCM), it is a good time to do so now. Refer to the HFCM Filter Change and Fuel/Water Separator Drain Procedure:http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/80...lter-hfcm.html
5. Slide the new fuel cap o-ring into position (just above the threads on the end cap).
6. Lightly lubricate the o-ring with oil.
7. Insert the new secondary fuel filter (small filter in kit) into fuel filter housing.
8. Re-attach fuel filter end cap (with new o-ring) back onto the filter housing. Torque the cap to 14 Nm using a 15/16 inch socket or 1/2 inch square drive. Warning: Tightening beyond torque specs will crack reusable oil filter cap.
9. After any fuel filter change, remove air before starting:
Three cycles of: ignition on for 3 sec, ignition off for 15 sec
Then ignition off for 3 seconds and START
I think that you should add the fact that once the filter is replaced, before you put the cap back on, fill the cylinder back up with new diesel fuel. I did everything exactly as you described and once I cranked my truck up, I let it idol for a little while and after about 30 seconds it started sputtering and almost shut off for lack of fuel. I got back under the hood and took the cap back off and there was very little fuel in the upper filter housing, even after all of the priming to get the air out. Found this out after I called a local service shop.
If your fuel pump is working properly and you installed the primary fuel filter cap properly (no gaps), the you do not need to put fuel in the secondary fuel filter bowl. The described priming procedure (Step 9) works very well.
It does not hurt to fill the bowl, but a local service shop or quick change shop does not have more experience than where these instructions came from (ie Ford). I suspect you have some hidden problems OR you did not get the primary fuel filter cap on properly. A bad o-ring or cross threaded cap can let air into the system.
The other thing is that you may have a "fitment" issue w/ the secondary filter. Are you using OEM filters?
Others here have filled the secondary bowl after change with DK or their favorite fuel treatment. Debatable though, as some thought it would give your injectors a "super shot" of cleansing, but IIRC I think most of it went back to the fuel tank instead?
__________________
~ Tim ~
If you can't stand behind our Military, feel free to stand in front of them!
'04 F250 KingRanch CC FX4 6.0 swb "BIG D"( gone but not forgotten )
'10 F150 XLT 4X4 CC shortbed 5.4 *5 Star tuned* No Bailout Edition
GO FLYERS! Go Phillies!
Sluggish now at cold take off after both fuel filters changed
I just changed both fuel filters last weekend with Racor replacements. Why would the truck have a much longer lag until engine gets some temperature going? Truck started fine after the change with the key/pump cycling but now is a dog right off the line. It has been in the upper 70's to low 80's recently so the engine isn't really cold. Also anybody know what the part number is for the revised brass plug on the water separator for draining? I stripped mine out. Thanks....
__________________
~ Tim ~
If you can't stand behind our Military, feel free to stand in front of them!
'04 F250 KingRanch CC FX4 6.0 swb "BIG D"( gone but not forgotten )
'10 F150 XLT 4X4 CC shortbed 5.4 *5 Star tuned* No Bailout Edition
GO FLYERS! Go Phillies!
If your fuel pump is working properly and you installed the primary fuel filter cap properly (no gaps), the you do not need to put fuel in the secondary fuel filter bowl. The described priming procedure (Step 9) works very well.
It does not hurt to fill the bowl, but a local service shop or quick change shop does not have more experience than where these instructions came from (ie Ford). I suspect you have some hidden problems OR you did not get the primary fuel filter cap on properly. A bad o-ring or cross threaded cap can let air into the system.
The other thing is that you may have a "fitment" issue w/ the secondary filter. Are you using OEM filters?
I went back and checked everything and nothing looks wrong. And since I filled the secondary filter cylinder up, I haven't had a single problem. Also, when I put the primary filter cap back on, I made sure to hand thread it until the o-ring starting causing too much resistance, and it went in fine so I don't think it would be cross-threaded, and it was a new o-ring so I don't think the problem would have been there. I also checked the secondary filter itself to make sure it went in properly, and everything looked fine. Also, when I was changing my filters (this being my first time), I made sure the compare the old filters that I took out with the new filters that I was putting in. The main reason I did this is because I know that some "off-brand" oil filters are different than the motorcraft ones, so I didn't know if this would be the same thing. Everything looked the same to me, except for the primary filter. The old primary filter had some mesh layer surrounding the ribbed filter part, where my new one just looked like a miniature oil or air filter. Not sure if this matters at all....
Also, if you're planning on changing these yourself, plan on making a trip to Sears. The only 36mm socket I could find around my house was in an old tool chest my granddad had given me a few years ago. The problem with this socket was that it required a 3/4" ratchet! I don't think I've seen a ratchet that big before. So, I went to Lowes and Home Depot, and the biggest socket they carry is 32mm and the biggest ratchet they carry is 1/2". I was dreading going to Sears, because I know they have some rediculous prices on most stuff, but it turned out not being a problem because I found a 36mm socket that would fit a 1/2" ratchet, which obviously isn't very common.
I went back and checked everything and nothing looks wrong. And since I filled the secondary filter cylinder up, I haven't had a single problem. Also, when I put the primary filter cap back on, I made sure to hand thread it until the o-ring starting causing too much resistance, and it went in fine so I don't think it would be cross-threaded, and it was a new o-ring so I don't think the problem would have been there. I also checked the secondary filter itself to make sure it went in properly, and everything looked fine. Also, when I was changing my filters (this being my first time), I made sure the compare the old filters that I took out with the new filters that I was putting in. The main reason I did this is because I know that some "off-brand" oil filters are different than the motorcraft ones, so I didn't know if this would be the same thing. Everything looked the same to me, except for the primary filter. The old primary filter had some mesh layer surrounding the ribbed filter part, where my new one just looked like a miniature oil or air filter. Not sure if this matters at all....
That "mesh" material is the water-bloc membrane. It is what keeps water from getting through this filter and to your injectors. This is another reason to NOT use aftermarket filters. Another is that the aftermarkets can plug up faster than Ford's. When they do, the fuel pressure drops to below 45 psig and then you have an injector repair bill faster than you can say "h..h..h..h..how... m..m..m..much?" (this is one of my favorite quotes from a forum tech).
There really is no exception to this good advice: Use ONLY Racor, International, or Motorcraft filters.
Many people assume it will be OK because .........
- they look the same (almost).
- the aftermarket is made by a major company - how could they sell junk?
- aftermarket companies have guarantees against damage.
- it can't possibly be that important.
- etc.
People will always do what they want, but saving a few dollars on filters will bite you big time with your expensive truck.
Also, if you're planning on changing these yourself, plan on making a trip to Sears. The only 36mm socket I could find around my house was in an old tool chest my granddad had given me a few years ago. The problem with this socket was that it required a 3/4" ratchet! I don't think I've seen a ratchet that big before. So, I went to Lowes and Home Depot, and the biggest socket they carry is 32mm and the biggest ratchet they carry is 1/2". I was dreading going to Sears, because I know they have some rediculous prices on most stuff, but it turned out not being a problem because I found a 36mm socket that would fit a 1/2" ratchet, which obviously isn't very common.
They sell the 6.0L filter socket made by Lisle at almost ALL auto parts stores for about $7. It is 3/8th inch drive.
That "mesh" material is the water-bloc membrane. It is what keeps water from getting through this filter and to your injectors. This is another reason to NOT use aftermarket filters. Another is that the aftermarkets can plug up faster than Ford's. When they do, the fuel pressure drops to below 45 psig and then you have an injector repair bill faster than you can say "h..h..h..h..how... m..m..m..much?" (this is one of my favorite quotes from a forum tech).
There really is no exception to this good advice: Use ONLY Racor, International, or Motorcraft filters.
Many people assume it will be OK because .........
- they look the same (almost).
- the aftermarket is made by a major company - how could they sell junk?
- aftermarket companies have guarantees against damage.
- it can't possibly be that important.
- etc.
People will always do what they want, but saving a few dollars on filters will bite you big time with your expensive truck.
See I didn't know this. Like I said, this is the first time I have changed my fuel filters since I bought the truck (which wasn't too long ago, so don't worry) and it's definately the first time I've done it myself. But now that you say that, I will probably go get some more as soon as possible and replace them. I really appreiciate the input. When I do it again, I will also pay close attention to my proceedure and make sure I do everything carefully and I'm not going to fill up the secondary filter cylinder with fuel and see if everything works this time.
Also, while I'm on here, I have a question. My truck is a '04 250 6.0, 140K miles, FX4 crew cab (not sure if that really matters though for this question), and the only mods are 4" straight pipes with no cats, and an AEM Brute Force cold air intake (i bought the truck with both mods, so don't bash them with your opinion on what should or shouldn't have been done. I'm probably going to re-do a few things when i get the money). When I stomp the gas, whether it be from a dead stop or while moving on down the road, I get a half second of black smoke, and then nothing. Everyone else I know that has a 6.0 can stomp the gas and get a TON of smoke. Why would that be? I know the less smoke the better, but I'm just curious as to why the lack of smoke. If you're curious about the power, my truck has PLENTY of power. If I stomp it, it has great take-off, so it doesn't lag at all. So if anybody knows, feel free to comment.
__________________
2003 F250SD 4x4 6.0L 5 Speed Auto 12/03 flash
With a F250 and a 30-06
Who needs a radio when you got a turbo diesel?
The only difference between o bama and osama is BS.
FUBO
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