Racor is a Division of Parker (ie Parker-Hannifin) - the OEM manufacturer.

 

Wonder if FD stands for Ford Division? And PFF for Parker Fuel Filter.

 

Is there a history of the International part number for the fuel filters changing/evolving?
In notes I've made over the years for the International part numbers for fuel filters, I'm finding iterations of that part number ending in 1, 2, and 3.

 

I'm on of those poor soles with an upper fuel filter cover on so tight that you can see the cover flex around the socket when you are trying to loosen it. It feels like the center is going to snap right out of the cover (which I do not have a replacement on hand (and, darn, do they really cost $48 like AutoZone says?) I read somewhere on the forum that bleeding fuel pressure off the filter housing will make the cover easier to remove. I haven't found directions on how to do this, nor have I seen bleeding pressure off the upper filter in the protocol. Am I confused? If the cover is really too tight to use a socket, is it likely that an oil filter band wrench will do the job? Thanks

 

It's likely that the rubber seal wasn't lubed enough when installed and now it's stuck.
I find applying torque with long steady pressure you should find the cap to very slowly turn and eventually twist off with ease.
You may want to replace it with a new stock cap.

 

thanks. And $48 is a real price for a new cap? I'm new here. Where's the best place to buy on-line?

Thanks again

 

Edited for clarification

Bleeding should not be necessary to make removing the cap easier. This is in answer to the question posed in post #49. If you want to bleed the system, then open the WIF drain on the primary fuel filter first. Not sure if this helps in the least little bit for removing the secondary fuel filter cap, but hey - why not do it first - can't hurt.

Bleeding IS required to ensure the air is removed from the system before cranking. This bleeding is accomplished by multiple cycling of the ignition switch (prior to cranking).

Buy the OEM cap at AutoNation White Bear Lake

(Saw your "never mind" Tim and edited a bit - the editing should help some I believe??)

 

Never mind

 

As kidoo posted in post #42 - new fuel filter part numbers (updated to include an additional o-ring seal to minimze leakage past the filter):

Fuel Filter: new (FD-4616) 3C3Z-9N184-CB 1847170C94

 

Why do you recommend them? Do they discount ? Give fast service?

Thanks for your advice on the bleed. The argument was that threads unerring 60pound pressure would be harder to turn

Allan


Bleeding should not be necessary to make removing the cap easier. This is in answer to the question posed in post #49. If you want to bleed the system, then open the WIF drain on the primary fuel filter first. Not sure if this helps in the least little bit for removing the secondary fuel filter cap, but hey - why not do it first - can't hurt.

Bleeding IS required to ensure the air is removed from the system before cranking. This bleeding is accomplished by multiple cycling of the ignition switch (prior to cranking).

Buy the OEM cap at AutoNation White Bear Lake

(Saw your "never mind" Tim and edited a bit - the editing should help some I believe??)[/QUOTE]

 

AutoNation White Bear Lake does indeed discount. If you access them through FordParts.com, you get the lowest price and lowest shipping cost.

The upper fuel filter cap part number is: 3C3Z-9G270-AA. $35 at AutoNation WBL.


IMO the reason your cap is hard to turn is most likely because it is an aftermarket cap (but I guess cross-threading is also a possibility). Make sure you lubricate the cap o-ring as suggested above. I use motor oil. Try putting some oil on the cap threads also. If you ran a fuel pressure gauge, you would see that the pressure bleeds down anyway when the engine is turned off.

 

LOL--my first response to bleeding was busted knuckles, not bleeding the fuel system, that's why I "never minded" my post.

AFA bleeding the fuel system, there simply is no point as it's self bleeding simply by cycling the key 3 or 4 times. There's no way to bleed from the secondary filter housing to the back of the heads, nor is there a need.