Before beginning the procedure it is best to have your engine oil up to operating temperature so it will drain more completely (but it is not absolutely crucial by any means). Also, the procedure states to add 15 quarts. Many have found that adding 14 quarts is sufficient to bring the level to the full point. Ford states that you should fill your system to the full indicator on the dipstick and that you do not need to add oil until it hits the minimum point (Broadcast Message 1512, 1574). Clearly Ford provides the user with a fairly wide "window of operation".
I only need to add 14 quarts to get to the full point (please no debates on this topic in this thread). Because of this, I would add oil when it gets to the midway point (1 quart) rather than let it get all the way to the minimum. As I stated earlier, Ford provides a lot of latitude for personal preference in this area.
note - the 6.0L engine system holds approximately 18 quarts of oil. This means that there is always a fair amount of old oil left in your system. For this reason (and others), proper filtration and OCI (oil change interval) is crucial.
POOR OIL CONDITION (high viscosity and soot) can cause delayed injection timing and poor combustion. Injector stiction (spool valve sticking) and EGR / Turbo coking can happen. Delayed oil change can deplete the additives which can also affect viscosity, soot removal ability and corrosion protection. Oil can stay in the upper portions of the engine for up to 20 minutes after the engine is shutdown.
Fords recommendation for oil change is 7500 miles for normal service and 5000 miles for severe service.
Note that Ford (and many experts agree) that using the Motorcraft or OEM (Racor) filter is essential for reliability. Severe damage can occur from using the wrong filter.
Make sure Oil filters are OEM style. Check:
1. One piece top (NO plastic cap adaptor)
2.Top is glued to the filter media
3. Patent numbers (below)
4. Felt gasket on bottom
5. Diameter - exactly 1.5"
6. Length - exactly 6.5" (excluding the 4 snap tabs on top)
7. Filters are stiff and resist any twisting motion
8. 52 or 53 pleats
9. Pleats are 11/16" wide and 6 3/8" tall
Motorcraft oil filters specs: Filters at least 95% of all particles 20 microns and larger.
PATENT NUMBERS on OEM and OEM style OIL FILTERS:
U.S. Patent 6.554.139 describes the filter components (the good stuff, made by the Parker-Hannifin Corporation).
U.S. Patent 6.086.763 refers to the front disk assembly (not as important - made by Ing. Walter Hengst GmbH & Co.).
Videos on why your oil change process (including proper filters) is important.
Not positive, but I'm pretty sure my owners manual says 5000 for normal service and 2500 for severe.
I don't know if you copy and pasted this, but I'm sure you will agree with me that 7500 is pushing it. Especially from the oil reports I have gotten from 5000 mile intervals.
Maximum oil change interval: ❑ Normal schedule: 7,500 miles (12,000 km) or 6 months, whichever occurs first.
❑
Special Operating Conditions: 5,000 miles (8,000 km), 6 months or 200 hours of engine operation, see appropriate schedule.
Engine lubrication for severe service operation:
The following severe service operating conditions require unique engine maintenance procedures:
•
towing a trailer over 1,000 miles (1,600 km)
•
sustained, high speed driving at Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (maximum loaded weight for vehicle operation during hot weather-above 90°F [32°C]).
•
frequent or extended idling (over 10 minutes per hour of normal driving).
•
operating in severe dust conditions.
•
frequent, short trips of 10 miles (16 km) or less during freezing weather
If you are operating your vehicle under any of these conditions, observe the following service procedures:
•
Change engine oil and filter every 5,000 miles (8,000 km).
I certainly agree that doing UOA's (used oil analyses) is a great idea. It will provide a wealth of information. I personally change my oil at 5k miles, but many who do not work their truck very hard are going 7.5k (some are pushing it even more which I feel is generally unwise).
__________________ Mark
06 F250 CC SB ESOF FX4 Lariat 3.73LS 275/65R20; DieselSite Coolant Filter; High Idle Mod; HFCM Plug; Zoodad/Air Fury grill; Accufab Elbow; RACCCV6000 filter; JimmiJammers; Ravelco; SynchroMax in Transfer Case; Fumoto Valve; Harpooned fuel tank; Line-X; CPOhighway Products tool box; tracrac; Fox Weatherboots; Wet Okole Seat Covers; Stanadyne Performance & B2 for lubricity; PIE adapter (thanks Sarge); PIAA 24" wiper blades; updated EGR valve; BriteBox; Re-flashed; Fuel Pressure gauge; DashDaq on deck
amsoil sells a bypass kit has anyone here gotten/used it or the other one that is like it? I read about another that totally removes the engine mounted filter and replaces it with 2 spin ons any comments pro-con?
amsoil sells a bypass kit has anyone here gotten/used it or the other one that is like it? I read about another that totally removes the engine mounted filter and replaces it with 2 spin ons any comments pro-con?
any pro con either sytem both are rather pricey!
I have given a lot of thought about adding a bypass filter as they do have benefits. The benefit of running a bypass is that it helps with running extended drain intervals which can save time and money on maintenance. The issue with the powerstroke is that it shears the engine oil viscosity. Pretty much everyone on this board runs a 5000 mile change interval because of this shearing. So adding a bypass just makes your maintenance more expensive as you have an additional filter to buy and there is more oil in the system because it adds capacity but you cant (more like shouldnt) extend your drain interval because of the shearing.
Now to the benefits, here is a link to BITOG showing a before and after on a sprinter diesel:
So there is a pretty dramatic drop in wear metals! So even though these work, the reason I decided not to install one was, there is no cost recovery and with only quality ruitine maintenance the truck will run forever anyway.
To answer your above question, no it doesnt replace the stock filter it is an extra external filter and there are many companies offering products.
duffman I know wha you are saying and I was not wanting to extend oil changes, but I was just wonderin if anyone had tried any of these. There is a new one that I read about in one of the diesel mags that pulls the filter assy off the 6.0 and puts a plate over the hole and then with lines redirects thru 2 external spin on filters.
as to extra cost that is not an issue if it keeps the engine together longer. Which one did you go with?
You stated fill to full??? The Manual (i printed the pages before the link wne t dead). state 13.5 qts, and there is a ford bulletin stating fill to MIN (cold). You might revise your instructions :-)
__________________
HD Andy
2004 F 250 Harley Davidson Edition, 6.0L Diesel Powerstroke
the other thing that will happen is someone changes oil, fires up engine to check for leaks, then checks oil level right after shutdown. brand new, cool thick oil actually takes an appreciable time to fully drain down. as long as its above the add leave it for at 15 minutes preferably 30 then check level again. this should help avoid the operating issues some folks seem to have if level is too high
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2005 F350 Lariat crew 4x4
traded F350 XLT supercab 4x4 what a stinker
You stated fill to full??? The Manual (i printed the pages before the link wne t dead). state 13.5 qts, and there is a ford bulletin stating fill to MIN (cold). You might revise your instructions :-)
Andy - thanks for the comments. The procedure is definitely to fill to the full point (NOT OVERFULL). As Nitrogen states, it takes time to fully drain the oil back into the pan after operation (Ford states 20 minutes). Because of this, it would be wise to add 13.5 or 14 quarts at first - if you do not know your truck. Then you can add whatever it takes to get to the full mark. After that, just add the amount you have determined is necessary to fill your system.
Ford indeed says you do not have to add until your level drops to minimum, but you really should not start out there.
__________________ Mark
06 F250 CC SB ESOF FX4 Lariat 3.73LS 275/65R20; DieselSite Coolant Filter; High Idle Mod; HFCM Plug; Zoodad/Air Fury grill; Accufab Elbow; RACCCV6000 filter; JimmiJammers; Ravelco; SynchroMax in Transfer Case; Fumoto Valve; Harpooned fuel tank; Line-X; CPOhighway Products tool box; tracrac; Fox Weatherboots; Wet Okole Seat Covers; Stanadyne Performance & B2 for lubricity; PIE adapter (thanks Sarge); PIAA 24" wiper blades; updated EGR valve; BriteBox; Re-flashed; Fuel Pressure gauge; DashDaq on deck
amsoil sells a bypass kit has anyone here gotten/used it or the other one that is like it? I read about another that totally removes the engine mounted filter and replaces it with 2 spin ons any comments pro-con?
any pro con either sytem both are rather pricey!
Remove the factory filter and I guarantee you that you will have no warranty.
__________________
"05 F-250, 6.0, CC, LB, 3.73, Lariet, with coolant filter and Bilstein shocks, Magnefine p.s. filter, S. Ca.
"69 Mustang, Mach 1, 428 CJ, Ram Air, Stock
"71 Triumph Trident
2007 Thor Jazz 5er, 11k, 31'
173rd Abn.
Andy - thanks for the comments. The procedure is definitely to fill to the full point (NOT OVERFULL). As Nitrogen states, it takes time to fully drain the oil back into the pan after operation (Ford states 20 minutes). Because of this, it would be wise to add 13.5 or 14 quarts at first - if you do not know your truck. Then you can add whatever it takes to get to the full mark. After that, just add the amount you have determined is necessary to fill your system.
Ford indeed says you do not have to add until your level drops to minimum, but you really should not start out there.
Intersting. The 13.5 was to account for the 1.5 qts in the HPOP that do not drain. So to me, as I am understanding, see that adding 15 qts would in fact put you overfull...13.5 and Min would actually work out to be the proper amount. Please clarify :-)
__________________
HD Andy
2004 F 250 Harley Davidson Edition, 6.0L Diesel Powerstroke
The benefit of running a bypass is that it helps with running extended drain intervals which can save time and money on maintenance. The issue with the powerstroke is that it shears the engine oil viscosity. Pretty much everyone on this board runs a 5000 mile change interval because of this shearing. So adding a bypass just makes your maintenance more expensive as you have an additional filter to buy and there is more oil in the system because it adds capacity but you cant (more like shouldnt) extend your drain interval because of the shearing.
More oil means oil lasts longer.
The International VT365 has a refill capacity that is 4 quarts more than the 6.0 and the oil change intervals are 10,000 standard, 7,500 severe.
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2004 E-450 6.0 139,000 miles
7,500 mile, 15 quart oil changes, 5W-40 Rotella.
UOAs consist of checking for metal on drain plug magnet. All stock, no mods. Dyed fuel with no additives. Never been reflashed.
Total parts replaced;
one EGR valve.
Mark, thanks for this info. Two related questions that I don't think will hijack this thread:
1. For UOAs: does it matter when the sample is taken, eg, I wait until a quart or two has drained then get a sample using the Fumoto
2. Is Blackstone the lab of choice? My second sample is on the way to them, and they seem to have a good service.
Thanks again,
dano
__________________
Dan, Tucson, AZ
2003 F250 CC SB FX4 6.0-5/03 build, HFCM drain, Fumoto drain plug, Bilsteins, Prodigy brake controller, Extang hard bed cover, FTE fan
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