Factory (Donaldson) air filter: FA-1778 or 4C3Z-9601-AA
Most folks agree that the factory Donaldson air filter is the best unit for a stock 6.0L. Many knowledgeable folks that have heavily modded their trucks still have the factory air system (proving them to be capable of supporting 500 hp or maybe even more). The "Relative Filtration Efficiency" is 99.97% (link below). The filter is capable of holding 3 - 3.5 lbs of dirt and needs to be changed only as the filter minder indicates, however you will get a light on your dash panel if you go too long. Most do not find the need to change the filter until 50k miles or more (some have gone up to 100k). The change interval does depend on driving conditions.
I have tried the K&N on mine & while I did see some improvements like a quicker responce on the throttle I will not recomend the use of that unit, it doen not fit wright. I am goin back to the stock air filter but I do recomend changing it every 15,000 Mi becouse it does get loaded up with alot of sand. It seams to help the responce time to.
Depends where you are and what conditions you drive in, if it is all pavement you shouldn't need to change as often, dirt and sand roads yes you will have to change more often. 15,000 miles is pretty much overkill I'd say.
I have tried the K&N on mine & while I did see some improvements like a quicker responce on the throttle I will not recomend the use of that unit, it doen not fit wright. I am goin back to the stock air filter but I do recomend changing it every 15,000 Mi becouse it does get loaded up with alot of sand. It seams to help the responce time to.
I've had the K&N cold intake for a while, and had no improvement in anything, and it did fit just right... I went back to stock, because all the horror stories here, and after I pulled the K&N intake pipe, the inside was covered with oily sandy c##p. So I've seen the negativity of it , and thank God I didn't kill my turbo.
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'03 F250 6.0 Lariat CC LB FX4, 4" Turboback Stainless Exh., ARP Studs, EGR Delete, Banks High Ram Intake/ stock filter, SCT X3 Innovative Custom Xtreme Tunes , CCV reroute, Dieselsite Coolant filter, Fumoto valve, High Idle Mod, Autometer Boost, EGT, Fuel Press. gauges, Zoodad Mod, Suncoast 5R110 , 4" Pro Comp lift kit
Kong MKII Train horn w. 5 gal. air system
'57 Jeep CJ5 Wyllis "Original" / no mods
Good info as always. Unfortunately, the two bottom links don't work for me. I, too, had a K&N in my truck (when I bought it) and replaced it with the stock air box. The inside of the tube and entering side of the turbo were spotless...thankfully.
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Brad
2003 F-250 Lariat Supercab 4x4 6.0L PSD, Fumoto, Updated HFCM Plug, DieselSite Bypass Coolant Filter, 22" Wiper Blades, more to come...
2008 Taurus X Limited AWD w/ a Fumoto (The Wife's Family Truckster)
Quote:
You haven't lived life until you've done 110mph in a Yugo
In my link on air system management (page 7), Additional Air Management System Information
cleaning of the EGR valve is said to be done with brake cleaner and not carb cleaner.
I am not sure why this presentation is wrong, but it is. Ford specifically states to use carb cleaner (PM-3) or injector cleaner (PM-6) and NOT brake cleaner of any kind (will damage the shaft seal.
Most do not find the need to change the filter until 50k miles or more (some have gone up to 100k). The change interval does depend on driving conditions.
I got over 69K until the filter minder indicated the filter needed changed.
Mostly highway miles with some dusty rock roads.
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