1961 - 1963 F100 Unibody 1961, 1962 and 1963 Ford F100 Unibody trucks

65 F100 - Is it worth it?

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Old 01-03-2009, 03:58 PM
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65 F100 - Is it worth it?

I'm new to the group and want your input on a 65 F-100 (352/3spd) I'm thinking about. I think I can get it for less than $1k. It's fairly close to me, but I have limited mobility due to hand surgery last week (doc's orders) so I can't inspect.

The truck has some cancer issues and I'm not sure if I can tell from the pictures if it's worth getting. I'm going to attach some pictures and see what y'all think. I reckon if it's not worth saving after I get it, I can always snag the engine and part the rest out...but I'd like to not have the hassle. I don't have any bodywork experience, but am willing to learn (have a 66 Fairlane GT that's going to need some).

I can't post pictures, so here's a link to the eBay page for the truck:

eBay Motors: Ford : F-100 (item 160307291894 end time Jan-05-09 19:00:00 PST)

What's the max it's worth? How much work does it look to be?

I'm looking at this as a bonding opportunity for me and my 10 year old son (been his dad for 2 years now). I know I risk having it bought out from under me by posting on this site, but I need advice from those who are more familiar than I am with these trucks.

Thanks for your opinions.

Chad
 
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Old 01-03-2009, 07:16 PM
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no 2 trucks will ever be the same... something will always be different... just like the value of truck... i personally paid 1500{talked him down from 2500 just because of how long its been sitting in the same spot lol} for mine despite a little bit of rust, lack of tail-gate, a cut up bed.... leaking carb, and fuel pump.... theres 3 places my truck has cancer, replacing the bed would be the easiest route to go to fix all 3 places, but i have trouble finding a good bed...

anyways, i would contact the seller, for a viewing of the truck, see how bad the rust really is first hand... check the cab mounts and radiator saports, from my understanding, these 2 places seem rust out a lot...

anyways welcome to FTE
 
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Old 01-03-2009, 07:36 PM
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I would buy it for $1000.00 it needs some major cab work but panels and a welder can fix it. There are numerous parts suppliers out there, but you would have a good truck for $2000. With some time in.IMO.
 
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Old 01-03-2009, 07:39 PM
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At $750.00, it is past what I would pay for that much rust. Keep looking, and do not get into a rush, you can find a better truck for about the same money. IMHO



John
 
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Old 01-03-2009, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jowilker
At $750.00, it is past what I would pay for that much rust. Keep looking, and do not get into a rush, you can find a better truck for about the same money. IMHO



John
DIDDO!!

I'd consider craigslist classifieds: jobs, housing, personals, for sale, services, community, events, forums in your surrounding area or even out west coast and have it transported for the savings. I just got the 64 in my gallery for 5 bills and the 66' was only a grand. Neither have serious rust issues and that alone is worth a G to me in parts/labor IMO!! Patience Grasshopper IMO!!

For instance; http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/975956730.html
 
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Old 01-03-2009, 08:00 PM
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Don't think that one in Sacramento is worth more than $1000. Mine, with the V-8 was running and bought for $1200 out of San Jose. The one above needs to be towed. Brakes could be close to $200 to repair as the drums are the big unknown. Hasn't run it in a year? Maybe non-op but you can run the engine in the driveway...
 
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Old 01-03-2009, 10:25 PM
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Sure would like that short wide bed. The amount of rust would scare me off. To be completely honest you are much better off buying a truck that someone has already put the money into. It is a labor of love, but it depends how far you want your dollar to go. You can replace it piece by piece and spend hours upon hours, or buy one mostly done for 1/2 what you would have spent in parts and 0 man hours. Then just complete it with your personal touches. For instance a new engine is $2,000 or so. Once its placed in a truck and started, its just part of the truck and no longer worth $2000.
 
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Old 01-04-2009, 07:10 AM
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I concur that it is a lot of work. If you have the space, the welder, the ability to weld cleanly and quickly, AND the time, then this will be a great project.
Otherwise, NO.
The cab has so much rot that it will take you every weekend for a year to strip it of parts, remove it, cut and re-weld, and then re-install everything.
And in the process, bolts will snap, pieces will break, important components will fail when you put them back together, and then you have an expensive collection of parts. Then you won't have the money right at hand for new parts, and he will lose interest due to the wait, and then you'll have a truck filled with a huge amount of time and disappointment.
If you want to use a truck project to bond with him, get a newer one in better condition. Rebuild the motor, or transmission or both and have it running in less than six months. Repaint it a distinctive color - or colors. Then when he is ready, or along the way, get another Slick in better shape, especially from the SouthWest, and have it shipped home to work togther on it.

Or take him target shooting, and learn to reload 9mm ammo. Buy him a little 9mm or 380 pistol or even a .38 or .357. Reloading is cheap, you can get nice equipment for less than $250, and reload a thousand rounds for about $100. So, for just under $1,000 you can have a complete hobby - pistol, reloading equipment and the ammo.
Or take him fishing.

I would say put the bonding time ahead of the truck.
 
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Old 01-04-2009, 09:59 AM
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Welcome to FTE!! Loads of good info, advice and opinions!
I agree, WAY to much rust, make a bonding experience out of flying out to CA or somewhere, look for one and drive it home!
 
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Old 01-04-2009, 11:34 AM
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I'd pay a grand for that truck!
 
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Old 01-04-2009, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by grand_marquis_gt
I'd pay a grand for that truck!
There is one in every crowd.



John
 
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Old 01-04-2009, 01:16 PM
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Is this a Custom Cab, or not?

It has Custom Cab nameplates on the doors, dual sunvisors and armrests, but...

Standard Cab only: The grille is painted, there is no trim around the windshield or taillights.
 
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Old 01-04-2009, 02:39 PM
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Thanks for your input

I appreciate all of your input. Since I have no experience in rust repair, I'll probably hold on this one and wait. I probably should unload a coupe other vehicles first too...so I don't incur the wrath of my better half.

If anybody has a lead on a decent '65 or '66 (shortbed) with no rust issues, an FE motor (352 is fine...I have some 428 parts for my 390 and will pass the 390 parts down to the 352), and a manual trans (on the tree is fine), I'd appreciate a heads up. Paint condition won't be an issue b/c it'll be good practice for when I do the Fairlane. You can contact me at:

ncsu94 at verizon.net (replace "at" with "@").

Thanks and I look forward to getting a nice Slick one day!

Chad
 
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Old 01-04-2009, 03:12 PM
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I'd buy that truck just for the bed it's rare to see a bed with that little rust. I had to cut mine up and weld a whole new front section in. The cab is pretty rough though it depends on how much time you have.
 
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Old 01-05-2009, 01:48 AM
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Now this 66 long bed, 4spd standard for $975 could be a good deal...

1966 ford f100
 

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