393 stroker build questions-block machine work
#16
I don't know a lot about the 427 stroker.
Here are some general guidelines concerning strokers, though. There are disadvantages in trying to get the most stroke possible out of a motor, ( which pretty much describes a 427ci 351W).
As the stroke gets longer, the piston moves further up and down in the bore. This causes several problems- the piston must get shorter to clear the crank counterweights and the heads at the top of the cylinder. The rods must get longer to keep the piston skirts form hitting the counterweights.
As the piston gets shorter, the area for piston rings becomes smaller. In some instances, the distance between the top ring and the top of the piston is so close that the top of the pistons are weak and tend to break off.
The top of the piston ring area is shorter and doesn't transfer heat as well.The skirts are shorter, which makes for less stability and can cause sealing issues.
Along the same lines, as the rod gets longer, it pushes the pin further up into the piston where it starts intersecting the oil rings and the pin is closer to the heat created by combustion , which shortens it's lifespan.
The extra length of the stroke increases piston speed, which puts more force on the moving parts at the same rpms and again helps shorten engine life. The extra stroke can increase rod angles which puts more stress on the skirts and bearings.
Extreme strokes call for extensive clearancing. (This is where you see the pictures of big chunks taken out of the bottoms of cylinders and the sides of blocks.) You can also run into cam to rod problems with certain cams, this is where the Chevy guys start grinding away rod bolts.
This is why I don't know a lot about 427 stroker kits, I don't want to deal with those kinds of issues.
As far as gas mileage, you can put together a mild build and actually gain a little MPG. But when you increase displacement, you increase fuel consumption and when you increase displacement, increase performance, and put your foot in it.... well, you can't have your cake and eat it too.
It's another thing I haven't looked into that hard. The truck has a stock 2barrel 302 in it now, and if I was that concerned about economy, it would have a fresh one with an economaster going back in it instead of a 399 stroker with a 750 CFM 4 barrel.
Here are some general guidelines concerning strokers, though. There are disadvantages in trying to get the most stroke possible out of a motor, ( which pretty much describes a 427ci 351W).
As the stroke gets longer, the piston moves further up and down in the bore. This causes several problems- the piston must get shorter to clear the crank counterweights and the heads at the top of the cylinder. The rods must get longer to keep the piston skirts form hitting the counterweights.
As the piston gets shorter, the area for piston rings becomes smaller. In some instances, the distance between the top ring and the top of the piston is so close that the top of the pistons are weak and tend to break off.
The top of the piston ring area is shorter and doesn't transfer heat as well.The skirts are shorter, which makes for less stability and can cause sealing issues.
Along the same lines, as the rod gets longer, it pushes the pin further up into the piston where it starts intersecting the oil rings and the pin is closer to the heat created by combustion , which shortens it's lifespan.
The extra length of the stroke increases piston speed, which puts more force on the moving parts at the same rpms and again helps shorten engine life. The extra stroke can increase rod angles which puts more stress on the skirts and bearings.
Extreme strokes call for extensive clearancing. (This is where you see the pictures of big chunks taken out of the bottoms of cylinders and the sides of blocks.) You can also run into cam to rod problems with certain cams, this is where the Chevy guys start grinding away rod bolts.
This is why I don't know a lot about 427 stroker kits, I don't want to deal with those kinds of issues.
As far as gas mileage, you can put together a mild build and actually gain a little MPG. But when you increase displacement, you increase fuel consumption and when you increase displacement, increase performance, and put your foot in it.... well, you can't have your cake and eat it too.
It's another thing I haven't looked into that hard. The truck has a stock 2barrel 302 in it now, and if I was that concerned about economy, it would have a fresh one with an economaster going back in it instead of a 399 stroker with a 750 CFM 4 barrel.
#18
#19
That's my thoughts on it, not to mention how hard it would be to keep it fed when gas goes back up. WAY, WAY more motor than you need anyway. A built-up 408 will make more power than street tires can handle, and possibly some drivetrain parts.
#20
as far as drivetrain goes im looking at a tci Aod trans ill probably get for it not a bad deal for a little over 2000. havent decided on the rear end though. The only thing im completely unsure about is the computer being that its an efi engine. it looks like from what ive heard ill need to convert to an MAF system can i just get one of those out of a newer truck with a 351 or do i need to go aftermarket? and ive heard about different chips in the computer or different computers to run the engine as my guess is a stock 351 computer isnt going to run a 393 or a 408 built up and especially if somewhere down the road i put a small 4-6 psi supercharger on it. how do i go about taking care of the electronic aspect of this build
#21
#23
#25
for the shortblock between 2400-2900 depending on what style pistons but all come with forged probe pistons. theyre longblock setup with the afr heads is 6000 still looking at the prices of all parts included if i decided to build it myself not sure if the longblock would be worth it yet.
#27
they have a great website do a search for tand l engines out of stanfield n.c loyd back in the day 80 "s early 90 ,s use to have half the winston cup series using his engines , they he knows engines got 3 dynoes at his facility verry top notch .http://www.tandlengines.com/ i just looked there 408 f1 motor w all heads and dynoed less carb and ignition 4995 465 hs 480 tq
#28
deffinately seems quite a bit cheaper and with dart heads not bad. the only thing is it seems more of a car engine with its peak torque and hp up around 5000 rpm. in my opinion not setup for a truck but i know this is probably a stupid question but will changing the cam help make more power down lower rpm for a better truck motor. id be changing that intake to a EFI one but thats no big deal. any opinions on the cam? ive just never built an engine like this and want to know how i could make this more of a truck motor?
#30
any engine is buit for a purpose . as was my 600 inch stroker it was built to make huge torque in a certain rpm range ,a nice flat tourqe curve in a boat is a must to prevent a "peaky engine ". and engine from them will be a build that will meet youre goals being truck, boat, nascar . a motor is built around the cam "brain of the engine " so yes the cam is very important part of the equation when building an great efficiant motor . this is why one should buy a proven power pakage that all the guess work is done for you ,for youre actual purpase . intake runners . cam duration , lift , all heads , cast ,compression , deck height , all are a part of the final outcome being a sweet mill . or just another engine built with a bunch of parts hoping to runwell together . Thus all the best parts wont make a great engine . a great engine has all the right pieces of the puzzle combined !! this also is what make engines last . its worth the money to have it done right the first time