Heater Control Valve
#2
I ran briefly through all the major catalogues, and it appears that most of them have a little manual turn on turn off valve that you have to twist to open and close - like a sink angle stop.
The only company that I found a listing for the Stock Type Heater Control Valve for the 53-56 was C&G Ford Parts. It was listed as Part number FAC-18495-A and is NOS/$160!!!! Probably need to call them first.
Also, Number Dummy has access to all the obsolete parts suppliers and who has what. If there is one to be found, he can tell you where it is.
Here is the link to the C&G catalogue:
C&G Early Ford Parts for 1932 thru 1979 Ford cars and trucks. We have Old Ford Parts, Classic Ford Parts, Antique Ford Parts and Vintage Ford Parts!
Good Luck
Julie
The only company that I found a listing for the Stock Type Heater Control Valve for the 53-56 was C&G Ford Parts. It was listed as Part number FAC-18495-A and is NOS/$160!!!! Probably need to call them first.
Also, Number Dummy has access to all the obsolete parts suppliers and who has what. If there is one to be found, he can tell you where it is.
Here is the link to the C&G catalogue:
C&G Early Ford Parts for 1932 thru 1979 Ford cars and trucks. We have Old Ford Parts, Classic Ford Parts, Antique Ford Parts and Vintage Ford Parts!
Good Luck
Julie
#3
#4
#6
Here's a thread that has all the pictures and stuff:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-question.html
Configuration aside, I think they all work pretty much the same. And with a few geographical differences most of the heater water configurations were all similar if not the same as well.
SVF has the smaller manual valve for their listing for 53-56 - it's not a stock valve and operates differently. Maybe they show the stock valve in their printed catalogue, but there wasn't one in the online catalogue. That is if you HAVE to have the stock 53-56 Valve (and I think that was the original question).
But there isn't any reason that the 57-60 valve or the one Ross showed a picture of (which are the same except one has a 90* outlet angle) won't work fine. It mounts to the fender or firewall and the cable shuts off the hot water flow from the intake manifold to the heater. Not too type specific in it's operating principles.
J!
PS very briefly: Hot water flows from intake manifold outlet, to shut off valve, to heater inlet, out the heater to the water pump inlet.
#7
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#8
Usually the control valve is put on the outlet (return to engine/radiator) side of the system so that it won't trap air in the core, but it really shouldn't matter. The particular piece I showed is 5/8" as I recall, and I would cut into whichever hose it fits and where the cable will reach.
#9
In the diagram from the shop manuals and Illustrations catalogues, you will flow your hot water this way:
From the intake manifold nipple there is a hose that goes to the bottom of the control valve. Then it flows out the top of the control valve through a hose to the LOWER tube on the heater core (at the firewall). (flowing in the bottom of the valve and the heater core and out the top prevents the trapped air problems Ross was refering to) The hot water flows out of the TOP tube of the heater core to the nipple in the water pump.
In the 57-60 or the valve Ross Pictured it doesn't matter which is in or out. On the stock valve the blower motor wiring is routed through the control valve to the heater blower motor. But that could be easliy rerouted with a non stock valve. If it were me I'd use the cheaper newer valves, and adapt it. It would be VERY easy to do.
If you take a look in my second gallery, the pictures for the stock 56 Fresh Aire Heater (#12 and #13) are in there and may be larger. If not and you need a bigger one send me a PM with a real e-mail address, and I'll send you the full size drawing.
Julie
From the intake manifold nipple there is a hose that goes to the bottom of the control valve. Then it flows out the top of the control valve through a hose to the LOWER tube on the heater core (at the firewall). (flowing in the bottom of the valve and the heater core and out the top prevents the trapped air problems Ross was refering to) The hot water flows out of the TOP tube of the heater core to the nipple in the water pump.
In the 57-60 or the valve Ross Pictured it doesn't matter which is in or out. On the stock valve the blower motor wiring is routed through the control valve to the heater blower motor. But that could be easliy rerouted with a non stock valve. If it were me I'd use the cheaper newer valves, and adapt it. It would be VERY easy to do.
If you take a look in my second gallery, the pictures for the stock 56 Fresh Aire Heater (#12 and #13) are in there and may be larger. If not and you need a bigger one send me a PM with a real e-mail address, and I'll send you the full size drawing.
Julie
#10
#12
C3UZ18495A .. Heater Water Valve-Cable Operated (Motorcraft YG133)
Fits: 1961/72 F100/1100. Some big trucks thru 1991.
Splices into the heater inlet to heater core hose. When the valve is shut, no water flows to the core.
Available from Ford.
MSRP: $38.56 / FTEpartsguy.com price: $23.08.
C3TA-18495-A is the ID number, not the part number.
#13
One is the type Julie mentioned: FAC-18495-A. Julie's source for this valve IS it.
The other valve screws into the intake manifold, and is the shut-off type: FDA-18495-A.
Dennis Carpenter (page 76 in his 1948/56 truck catalog) has this valve under a different part number: 91A-15142 = $20.00.
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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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11-24-2015 10:54 PM