Good read!!

Here's my question...

On my truck...the wire that goes from the alternator to the electric asst choke is missing. I'm thinking if I took like a 18 gauge wire, crimped a female terminal connector on it that matches the choke male terminal, then crimped a ring terminal on the other end, where on the alternator would I attach the ring terminal? Is there a screw or bolt or something?

 

Great information. I have a couple of questions. I have a 77 F100 truck that has a 73 302 engine with a 73 2100 2v carb. I just rebuilt the carb and am trying to hook everything back up.
I think the hot air tube ran from the choke down to the exhaust manifold. I have headers. One suggestion was to take brake line and wrap the header a few times then attach into the hot air tube. This should heat the air and send it up the tube. Would the end of the brake line need capping? Is that a good idea?
Also the drawing shows the fresh (clean) air intake hose off the bottom of the air horn. Where does this hose attach to? I don't have a plate on the intake as shown in the photo.
I've got some more reading to do about vacuum lines, but wanted to ask this first.
Thanks,
Shane

 

Rather than the brake line route, I would get the HELP! kit available in parts stores. It comes with the line, asbestos style cover, fittings and nice cover and clamps that help seal the tube against the header.

You would NOT seal the end, the tube needs to pull air thru the tube to reach the choke housing.

The original style pulled air from the air horn DOWN innto the intake which heated it and then it went to the choke. This way the air being pulled was filtered and clean.

The universal way is not filtered and clean air. I suppose a system could be rigged to adapt a small filter at the end of the tube before wrapping it around a header tube.

Josh

 

just posting so I can find this thread later.

This really should have a sticky thread. It's a great post!

 

I think I understand there to be 2 different styles. If the steel covered line goes down to the manifold/header, I would have to plug the nipple coming down from the air horn, correct? I have the steel line w/ the cover. I hadn't thought of laying it along side the header and using a hose clamp. Would that accomplish the same thing? I will look into the kit. Thanks.

 

I am having a few issues with the choke on my truck. It has no hot air tube at all. The choke housing has the threaded fitting, but there is nothing attached and the passage is sealed off. I never really looked very close, I suppose it's possible for it to have been filled in with JB weld or something at some point in it's life.

Does anybody have any clear pictures of how this is supposed to be plumbed up on a '74 302?

 

Maybe this pic will help you.

The tubing with the rubber hose attached is coming from the air horn. That way filtered air is drawn in. The other side going to the choke needs to be all metal tubing, it gets pretty dang hot. My carb has hot air choke with electric assist, works great.

 

Excellent writeup. Thank You. I always wandered what that black plastic thing was on the side of the carburetor.

 

Sticky...Sticky...Sticky...

 

Perfect! As you can see on mine, there is no such thing!



It shouldn't be too hard to find some tubing and be able to make something work. One more question... Does anybody have any idea what size the fittings are supposed to be? The choke side looks like maybe a 1/4 icemaker line might work.

 

Well I think I might have my problem resolved. I got to thinking about what I would do if I had headers, which I intend to do at some point anyway. I took some 1/8" copper tubing and wrapped it twice around the exhaust pipe right up near the manifold and connected it to the choke. It seems to be working, although I'll have to wait until the next really cold morning to see if it has resolved some of my issues.

Here are some pics. It's not extremely pretty, but it is functional.

 

Seems to be a fairly common problem. . .and mine was completely corroded through as well. . .that was the last straw. I was tired of trying to track down the vacuum leak/electrical gremlin that was making my '79 F-150 w/351M all of the sudden run like crap. . .the fact that everything had been hacked up by a previous owner didn't help at all. . .so I broke down and replaced the intake manifold with a non-EGR (no emissions check where I live) Edelbrock Performer intake manifold and 600 cfm Edelbrock Performer electric choke carb. . .

. . .problem solved, engine once again purrs like a kitten not to mention I got rid of who knows how many feet of old vacuum line and cleaned the engine bay up tremendously!!!

Excellent post and if I had seen this post before I got the intake manifold and carb I probably could have fixed the problem. . .but at least now I will know for future reference and can help someone out who may be having the same problem.

Thanks for the post FMC400 and thanks for the link D24x4!!!

 

Pulled my Motorcraft 2100 over the weekend to get it ready for a rebuild. This information is invaluable. Thanks for posting FMC400!

 

glad i found this post,wish the pics were still there though.

 

Sorry about the pictures. At the time of writing, I had them hosted on my university webspace. After I finished my degree, the university closed my web account.

I wonder if a moderator could help me edit the post and replace them with new ones?