1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Autolite 2100 float setting, dry vs wet

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Old 12-28-2008, 01:52 PM
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Autolite 2100 float setting, dry vs wet

Hi, first the facts. '65 F250, 352, 4spd. The chart in the rebuild kit for the Autolite 2100 states 29/64" for the float setting but that is about 3/16 higher than it was before the rebuild and it was running at that time. The directions don't give a measurement for the wet setting although it does give instuctions as to how to do it. If I'm reading it right, it says to measure the fuel level after the engine has run for a few minutes at idle so as to have the bowl full. I'm good with this but the discrepency in my "before" level and the listed level has me wondering if an increase of 3/16" will flood the bowl. I know that the dry (float) and wet (fuel) levels are different measurements. What do your spec sheets say for this carb? This is the original carburetor. Thanks, Steve
 
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Old 12-28-2008, 07:23 PM
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I just got done doing the identical carb...what brand of kit is it ???


- cs65
 
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Old 12-28-2008, 08:35 PM
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cs, the kit is a Hygrade brand. I checked out some other reference material that I have and found that the Chilton manual that I have states that the wet setting is 29/32", so about twice the dry setting. I don't have a '65 Ford shop manual but I do have a '66 Ford shop manual and it lists the dry setting as .047 which I calculated out to about 30/64" and the wet setting as .875 which is of course 7/8". Did the settings you used coincide with these measurements and did you have good results? Also the Chilton manual was clear that you make the wet adjustment "while the engine is idling". I remember a friend burned up a flathead years ago while performing this adjustment on his '41 Ford pickup so I've been a little leary of that practice since then. I think the sparks from the generator lit it off. Thanks, Steve
 
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Old 12-28-2008, 09:15 PM
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The dry setting is 29/64...it says measurement is taken 'from the machined surface of the main body to the top of the free end of the float, with the float in the uppermost position.'
wet is 29/32nds

As to how to do the wet it says to run it for a half hour to get engine up to temp...they call it normalize.....say to run it @ 1200 rpm...pull the top off of it. It then says to temporarily put the air horn gskt in positionand start the truck, let it run at idle for a few minutes then shut it off. Then take the gskt off.
Next it says that with engine idling use a std depth scale to measure the vertical distance from top machined surface of the carb body to level of fuel in bowl. It says any measurement must be taken at least 1/4 inch from any vertical surface. Thats all it says aside from how and where to actually bend float tab if needed. it says truck needs to be run for 3 min. after each adjustment is made. When all is hunky dorey put the top back on and so on...
When I did mine, I initially put a new float in and had issues..things werent quite right as far as how things lined up...anyway, I ended up reusing my OE brass float and put back together and all is well in regards to the fuel issue I was having.
On the front left ear on the side there will be a code...like a C5TF-B or similar...in 65 there was 3 different carbs used on the 4 speed trucks...


The above is all from the 65 shop manual as to how to measure the fule level and so on...


Let me know if you need any more help...


- cs65
 
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Old 12-29-2008, 05:12 PM
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cs65,

I used the mesurements you listed and followed the procedure in the book pretty closely. It now runs better than it has in a long time. Thanks for the info.

Steve
 
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Old 08-04-2019, 12:07 AM
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did mine this way too today
29/32 down from the edge to the fuel.
No issues
 
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Old 08-04-2019, 08:10 AM
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Use a quarter as a handy depth gauge. It's exactly 29/32" or near enough. The engine doesn't need to be running.

Let engine idle for a couple minutes on level ground and shut it off. Then check it. You already have a fire extinguisher ready and available cuz you don't mess around.

Carburetors are calibrated from the factory around a specific fuel height being maintained in the bowl, this is so that the correct amount of fuel from the well is "pulled" into the discharge boosters, air bleeds and emulsion tubes work correctly and all that stuff. Floatheight/Wet height is probably the most important carburetor adjustment, if it's out of spec everything else is too.
 
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