1996 Ford Ranger Engine Fan will not turn off . Is there a fuse or something that might cause it to stay on? It spins freely by hand Can it be a sensor to that gives a false reading ?

 

O that was a 1996 Ford Ranger

 

i'm pretty sure your ranger has a mechanical fan which will not have a fuse. unless someone has added an electric fan which would have a fuse.

if it is a mechanical fan you are talking about then it sounds like you need to replace the fan clutch

 

I've been going 'round & 'round on this one. I have heard rumors of Ford putting a booster efan on Rangers for something, but have never seen it. It should then be in front of the radiator/ condensor coils as a pusher. Usually this WOULD be a diy mod as Joey said. Should be wired to a thermostat if so. There should be a probe clipped to upper right side of the radiator leading a short run to the electronic thermostat than or be tied in with output temp from engine sensors one way or another. Post more detail. The clutch fan will always seem to run. Hopefully freewheels when clutch works right for temp or exceeding 2000 rpm.

 

I do have an '08 ranger with the 2.3 4cly. it has both mechanical fan and electric fan.

the rumors that you hear are correct

 

A 2.3L with both? There's some good ammo for those old fogies who keep flaming about insisting plain ol' Rangers demanding exclusive use of a mech fan.

 

I have put a 16 inch electric fan in my '97 ranger 2.3. it doesn't have A/C. i have the mechanical fan removed and the e-fan is on a thermostat. I drive about 1500 miles per month and the fan never comes on in the winter and only while stopped in town will it come on in the summer and then it will only run for less than a minute and shut off.

fuel milage increased and power to the wheels is better

maybe khoeppner could replace his mechanical fan with a e-fan and get the same benifits.

I would also like to say that I was concerned about the life of the e-fan, but it has been on the truck for about 6 years and it has been under water and abused. it still works greats

 

My 03 2.3 with a/c also has the dual (mechanical/electric) fan setup as well.

 

Well, as for mech, most Rangers seem fine with OEM as long as the blades & hub are sound & the clutch fluid works well. Many guys go with an efan when the clutch goes bad & have a hard time finding a replacement. I have a nice little fan from a wrecked Cavalier mounted to a Ranger shroud from an '88 Ranger shroud. I might dabble with it on mine if my air intake hose gives me too much trouble. The control is the biggest issue. I had tried a Hayden from JCWhitney, but couldn't get it to deal well with wet weather & finding a place for it that works not easy. You get what you pay for. Actually, if I could come up with a graph map off the ECT, I'd like to build a buffered circuit to run a relay switch. Should be a voltage scale off the sensor we could tap and then have it trigger a positive output to the relay.

 

Ford Fuel Injection Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT)
Eh, OK, I guess it should switch on around the forward voltage of a common diode. I'd probably set it up a little differently with a 1/4 W precision potentiometer (blue rectangular body with brass screw for adjustment) hooked up to a wheatstone bridge or something, but it's pretty simple at least.

 

My Ranger is equipped with the mech fan-no problems as of yet..Have considered an e-fan, for the mileage, but a really good fan is a little pricey..Not high on my to do list!!

 

Good fans can be found very cheaply at junk yards. Transverse engines (FWD) need reliable fans, so a junkyard fan usually works about as well as pricey new efan. A little Cavi fan cools plenty for a small V6 Ranger without A/C. The bugger is in the temp switch. I'm turning my rusty head inside out (& Googling) trying to fathom a voltage switch circuit that switches on when the ECT voltage falls below adjustable voltage ref of around .6 to .7 volts, yet tolerate around 5 volts. Seems to call for a Schmitt trigger perhaps based around a 555 timer chip. If it's built well enough, it should be far superior to the probe style attached to the radiator. The circuit could be in the cab if desired, but that's kinda silly.
I know enough to build it, but we studied just enough to get 2-year computer tech certs & high school study ending about 15 years ago. I have read the ECT switch is extremely reliable, so this could be the key incentive. See that link I posted earlier.

 

That electric fan assist is only on the newer duratec 2.3, not the lima used from 83-01.

 

use a zener diode for the trigger voltage sense. they come in all sorts of "on" voltages, usually in about .2 volt increments.

 

I was wondering when the zener diode was going to come up......

I'm against E-fans. Just because I had one on our 94 ranger 4.0, a/c. And it just simply wasnt enough. The fan would run alot in winter, and would run almost constantly in the summer time, as the temp gauge climbed about 3/4 the way to hot. I removed it and actually will be selling it. Its the flex-a-lite designed for the rangers. I think it would be better suited for a smaller engine, or without A/C. I didnt notice enough of a mileage difference where a $200 fan would pay for itself, ever. I have tried the taurus fan in my 85 F150, and had the same results where the thermostat was a POS. I like the zener diode idea though. Find a temp vs output voltage table, figure out when you want it to come on, hook it up to a relay, and bang, you got it!