I have looked over the FAQ and tried the link for my problem but the 404not found so the site is no longer. I have a 96 Bronco with the window stuck down. I took off the access panel and can't see a thing. The window is tinted so it's harder to see. I called a few palces and they said to break the glass replace the motor and get new glass. Taht just sounds stupid. What can I do to get teh window up? any help would be great thanks

 

I hope you never call those idiots again. Wow, what bad advice. Do they know what a Bronco looks like?

It's pretty easy to get the window out, even with it stuck down. There are four bolts at the very bottom of the window that hold the regulator arms to the window. Remove the bolts and the window will slide right up. You will want to support the window with a sawhorse while you're working inside the tailgate. With the window out of the way, it's easy to get to the regulator and motor.

Good luck, and post back if you have any issues.

 

Close the tail gate as hard as you can without damaging it.

Try closing the window now, if this works remove back cover and bend the rod down about half an inch if this doesn't work read below

Now reach in and bend the rod that sits in front of the window down just push it down about a half inch not too much, try it a little at a time.

You will have to go through the top of the window opening to access this rod, it is connected to an interlock switch in the centre of the tail gate that is connected to the latches at the ends of the tailgate.

That switch is the number one problem area with these tail gates.

If this doesn't work you will have to get a vom meter and unplug the tail gate window plug just behind the left tail light then check for continuity or just try applying 12 volts to the circuit.

You may also have a broken wire at the plug or in the harness where it bends at the bottom when the gate is closed.

GL, Rick.

 

I had a similar problem on my 1990 Bronco. Looking back I would start by lubricating the weatherstriping with silicone spray. Is the motor still operating? There's a plastic rod that wears off if you try to run the window and the window doesn't move. If the motor doesn't run then it might be the wiring.

If you take the window out with the four nuts mentioned above, take note that the regulator is spring loaded to push the window up, i.e., when you take the window loose the arms are going to want to move toward the top of the window.

You might be able to move the window up manually. Heve an assistant run the motor.

If you can get the window up you can lube the arms and the window might work.

If you are putting the window back on the four nuts don't over tighten the nuts, the window will break. I learned that the hard way. A replacement window from a junkyard costs 50.

A replacement motor from a junkyard costs 15.

When the window is down all the way it presses on a rod that allows the tailgate to be oppened. Opening the tailgate with the window not all the way down will damage the mechanisim that operates this.

So in conclusion, lube the weatherstrip, try to raise the window by hand while the tail gate is closed and someone operates the motor. Then lube the arms and replace the motor if necessary or fix the wiring as needed.

 

I would be inclined to lean towards a faulty interlock switch. The driver's side latch has a safety interlock that prevents the window from moving unless the tailgate is fully shut. A misaligned or worn striker bolt is typically the culprit in these cases. To check the theory, open the gate and close BOTH halves of the driver's side latch. They will form a round hole where the striker bolt would be when the gate is closed. This will allow you to visually make certain that latch is fully closed. Then, either carefully crawl under the gate and activate the keyswitch or have a friend activate the dashboard switch. Either way, if the safety interlock switch is working properly, the window should come up even with the gate DOWN. If the window does indeed move, check the alignment and amount of wear on the driver's striker bolt and the condition of the latch. Often a slight shift of the striker will correct the problem for a while unless the latch or striker are too badly worn to make the latch fully engage when you close the gate. Happy hunting. If this doesn't do the trick, Follow andym's advice for getting at the electronics and window motor. And by the way, you might call the morons who told you to "break the glass" and tell then they are such. The glass alone WITHOUT tinting or defroster grid costs somewhere in the neighborhood of 4 bills and gets substantially pricier once you add tint and defrost.

In fact (and that kind of BS advice from a shop or service personnel just frosts my cookies) if I were you I'd call the BBB on them just so others know what morons they truly are!

Sorry about the dead link in the FAQ's. I am updating them right now. Hope to have a more current set attached to my signature within a couple days.

 

I'm pretty sure it's the motor since the window rolled down with some struggle, I opened the tailgate loaded the truck up closed th tailgate and the window wouldn't go back up. I'll see if I can get those 4 bolts tommorow and push it up manual. Tahnks for the help you guys are great.

 

Good luck with it. Let us know if you hit any snags.

 

The switch that detects if the gate is fully closed (driver's side) went on me. Pulled the plug off and jumped the two wires.Good luck

 

Ok so I am gonna do this tommorow since the holidays are now all done. Pretty much I gather taht on the bottom of the tailgate are the 4 main bolts that hold the window in place, I undo them and I should be free to move the window up and change ouot the motor? Slide the window back down, put the bolts back in and bam all fixed?

 

You should be able to move the window up with the bolts still in. The bolts hold the window to the regulator arms. If the window won't go up with you pushing on it and someone operating the motor, loosen the bolts and move the window. When the motor is removed be aware that the arms are under spring pressure and will move after the motor is removed.

 

Keep in mind that until you have gotten inside and gotten the window free from the regulator arms, its not a given that the motor is the culprit. Granted, if the motor doesn't run at all then a new one is probably necessary if the wiring checks out. But, sticky mechanisms and shattered drive pins in the gearhead on the motor can also be at fault. If the window will travel down but not up, its fighting gravity and drag from the guide tracks at the base of the window and the length of the guide rails at the sides of the glass as well. I would suggest getting the window glass out of the way or at least far enough out to run the mechanism without the weight/drag of it on the motor and see what happens. If the regulator arms spring upwards without the motor running when you remove the glass the problem is broken drive pins in the gearhead. If the drive pins are intact, the gearing will keep the regulator arms from moving either up or down from where ever the motor stopped. If the regulator arms stay put and the motor can drive the regulator arms without the added drag/weight from the glass, you could be dealing with partially broken drive pins, sticky guide tracks at the base of the window,or misaligned guide tracks for the glass. I only bring this up because aligning the glass tracks, cleaning the guide tracks and replacing the drive pins are all less expensive fixes than replacing the motor.

NOTE: If your tailgate glass has the defroster grid on it take extra care not to damage the quick-connect tabs mounted to the glass BELOW the gasket inside the gate. The female quick-connects have a locking feature which keeps them from slipping off as the window moves up and down. A small screwdriver or punch will release the catch and allow the connector to come free without damaging it. The connectors for the grid must be removed before the glass will come out past them and the male quick-connects are soldered to the glass/grid and will snap off if you are too rough with them... who me? The voice of experience?.. well maybe just a little.

 

ok, now you got me kinda worried I will screw it up lol. Sounds like it's more difficult than I thought. I took it to a window place (not the same place that said break the glass) the other day and they were pretty sure it was the motor since it was not the switch and they tried tapping the motor with a screwdriver to get it to jog a bit. The tailgate switch works since you can hear it click and the motor does nothing. Anyome happen to live in Michigan? haha

 

Ok, ok, didn't mean to scare you. In truth with the inspection cover on the inside of the tailgate removed you can see all of the parts I referred to in my previous post. If the failed motor has already been verified, then skip the entirety of what I said. I didn't realize you had verified that the motor was not functioning at all. I was basing my comments on the idea that the window had traveled down but would not come back up.

 

Before you count the motor out, you can try to run it directly with a battery charger. This way if there are any shorts/breaks in any of the switches or wires they will be out of the picture. If/when you take the access plate off,there will be a plug mounted under the inside of the gate in the middle. Pull it apart and you'll see which side goes to the motor. Connect the battery charger clamps to that end. I used a small screw to get into the plug to attach the clips. Be careful of arcing. It doesn't matter which way they go. One way will make it go up, the other down.If it works you'll have more room to finish diagnosing the problem without takeg the window bolts out.If it doesn't, then it probably is the motor.Every thing I have stated here was learned in this forum.

 

Well the window is up, it was not the motor. We were able to run it from a battery with the tailgate down the only problem was when we closed the tailgate the driverside was still closed and it didn't shut right now the tailgate won't come down. That and trying to figure out what the actual problem is will wait till springtime when it's warmer. I just wanted to thank you all for your tips and advice I woulda paid alot of money to a shop if it wern't for you guys. You rule! Thanks again